chasing corvettes

I'm going with a 140 amp alternator from a 55 amp one that isn't coming close to cutting it. So I have to figure out how to convert my externally regulated alternator to an internally regulated one. Based on this

http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corvette-alternator-conversion-kit-1963-1968.html?crosssell=Product_Upsell[/url]

all i have to do in order to upgrade from the my current externally regulated alternator setup is buy this and plug it into my new alternator? Or is there more to it? I feel like there's more too it, I also read I should upgrade the wire to the battery to an 8 gauge one. Is there anything else I should look out for? I realize there are many other threads on this topic but I'm new to working on cars and like having answers tailored to my particular problem so im sorry for any repetition.
thanks

Ironcross

GM has a standard production alternator thats a 94 amp internally regulated alt...the case is the same size and I believe fits a early 70`s Caddie or Olds...check with your local parts store

chasing corvettes

alright...that wasn't that helpful, anyone else have some insight on how to change to an internally regulated alternator???

lionelhutz

I assume you're looking at a CS130 type of alternator? Do you want to clean-up the wiring and modify the harness or just use adapter wiring and leave the old wires and plugs in place.

The idiot light wire comes into terminal 4 of the regulator. That's the only wire you need to save from the regulator. You can remove the other 3 wires and the plug - 2 wires go to the alternator and the 3rd goes to battery power.

The new alternator has a 4-pin terminal and they should be P L F S. The L goes to the idiot light wire from terminal 4 of the voltage regulator. The S can be connected to a 12V junction block somewhere in the car for remote voltage sensing. For example, connecting to the solenoid would attempt to keep the voltage at the solenoid right at 14.2V and it would do so by outputting a higher voltage at the output lug on the back. You can also leave the S terminal unconnected and the alternator will regulate the voltage at the output terminal instead.

So, remember it's L for light and S for sensing.

If you want to keep it stock that kit will work, but I would only use it if the original wires are in good shape.

I do agree, you should upgrade the main charging wire. I think 8awg is a little light if you are replacing the wire. 6awg would be better. You can tailor the wiring for you install as well. For example, run a 6awg off the alternator to a junction block where the high power accessories go. Then, run a 10awg to the battery for charging. Don't forget to put fusible links on the appropriate wires.

Finally, if you really want some good advice and the parts to do it properly, then you could get a hold of Mark at Mad Electrical.

Peter

gkull

Yes I went to a powermaster single wire and redid everything with 8-10-12 gage wire. I ran from the alt to the big "O" wire on the starter direct to the batt. and to the fuse Panel. I aslo ran from the alt to my dual spal 15 amp each fans and switched the returns with 50 amp lighted switches. My high powered msd and coil grounds etc are all 10's or 12's and the big ground straps

My higher amp head lights are all done with 12

chasing corvettes

Thank you, this is exactly what i was hoping for. What wires should i place a fusible link on? Just the one to the battery?

gkull

I have three + wires coming off the 105 amp alt. to the fans, fuse block, starter. all of them have an inline fuse. But the big fusible link is to the battery.

I also have the battery on off switch since I race my car

lionelhutz

Basically, any time you feed power off the battery with a wire run. So, each smaller guage wire taken off the battery or solenoid (either is the same considering the large guage wire from battery to solenoid) needs a fuse or fusible link. If you run a large feed wire to a terminal block and then run smaller wires off the same terminal block then each of those should have a fusible link. Some recommend a fusible link for the charging wire at the alternator too but personally I wouldn't be too concerned about that one since that doesn't seem to be an OEM practice.

I should have also recommended going to MAD's web site because there are some good documents available explaining this type of wiring with example diagrams.

Peter