1976 corvette

Off one of my part’s cars I came across a not bad looking holly 600 hidden below the air cleaner so I decided to install it on my 76 driver. It sits fine on a 2101 intake manifolds but I didn’t like how I ran the gas line. I just copied how it was on my parts car and even used the same cut metal gas line but I do not like the idea of having the most flammable thing in a car that closes to the hottest thing in a vehicle with only rubber in between. The fuel filter touches up against the coolant goose neck and the intake manifold so that can't be good. I can’t be the first one to do this, so what has everyone else done? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated? Thanks

Jacobs81

I just put the same carb on mine and i also need a fuel line. I have been thinking about using something like this, but i would rather it be threaded on the end instead of using any rubber line.

Korevette

I have used 'Earl's' products and braided fuel line. Clean, functional, flexable and easy to route from the pump to the fuel bowl(s)

Dano,

wydglydrydr

Explore the Summit and Jeg's websites. They have all kinds of braided and hardlines with threaded filters, etc., to create pretty much anything you want with no rubber necessary. Much better looking, too.

ptroxx

Not sure about the lines but you for sure dont want to use that glass fuel filter...

7T1vette

You should NEVER have rubber fuel line in the supply system after the fuel pump. Rubber hose is OK when it is not pressurized; but with pressure on it, fuel will be sprayed over the whole engine compartment when it fails (rubber hose will always fail...eventually) and a fire is likely to occur. Dangerous situation which has caused the demise of many 'hobby' cars.

SanDiegoPaul

the big BLUE OVAL did cars from the factory like that for many years. You just have to make sure the hose is good. And ford not only used rubber hose, but it was right next to their distributor at the front of the engine.

7T1vette

Well, if you can predict when a rubber hose is going to fail, more power to you. Good luck...

boltnut

I just replaced the line from my pump to the carb and needed to use a rubber section. I will upgrade and eliminate this as soon as I can....i also replaced a section of rubber hose that went from the frame rail to the pump that was deeply cracked.....everyone should inspect items like this seasonally...jmo

boltnut

I wouldn't use that air cleaner either...jmo...

GS977

i have some rubber fuel line on my 82. but i won't use regular fuel line. i always use fuel injection hose. it's exspensive but is cheap insurance. it holds @80 -100 psi if i remember right. so my 7 1/2 psi should be no problem. but i check it often.

Locke

I replaced the factory steel line and filter on my '69 just recently with -6 steel braided hose and an inline filter. My carb inlet is on the passenger front side of the carb, so is a little closer than yours.
It isn't cheap but I would highly recomend running -6 sized steel braided line in place of what you have.
I purchased most of my fittings and hose ends from Summitt.
I found the fitting needed to bring a -6 out of the fuel pump to be:
Part number RUS-640380, #6 to 5/8"-18 Inverted Flair Adapter, to put in fuel pump outlet., $5.95
Next in line was a SUM-220687, 90 degree -6 size hose end down at the pump to turn the line upward to the top of the engine. $13.95
Then some -6 braided hose between the two as needed.......I had some in my box of 'AN stuff' but about four to five feet should do you.
From here is gets to be a matter of preference on were to put the filter in the line. For a filter, I used: EAR-230106ERL, Earl's 35 micron fuel filter with -6 male ends on each side., $29.95
The straight hose ends are: SUM-220690, straight -6 hose end, $6.95 each.
If you feel you need to turn a 45 degree angle the end is a SUM-220686 at $13.95 each.
Notice the turning hose ends cost alot more than straight ones, something to think about when planning the route of your plumming!
I'm not sure what the fitting would be at your carb. You have a banjo fitting now and mine was a straight fitting with a 90 degree hose end going into it. The fitting number was SUM220663 and cost $6.00. It was 7/8" x 20 threads using the same washer/gasket kind of seal your banjo fitting uses two of.
It looks to me like you could fab a bracket off of the carb mounting with an insulated (adel type) clamp if you want to keep the filter steady but I don't think it will be a problem with the aluminum bodied filter from Earls.
You can waste alot of money buying this stuff and figuring out just what you need. Maybe for just a one time job it would be getter for you to either buy one of the kits offered by Summitt to go from pump to carb. but I would be sure to call them first to make sure of the supplied ends. They are usually geared for stock pump and carb and you have changed that. Another alternative would be to take the car to a racer or shop who works with this stuff and might have some in stock and pay them for their knowledge and experience. It might be cheaper in the long run than having three or four fittings left over, ordering three different times and having short pieces of hose left over. I'll let you figure out why I know that is what happens when you start trying to run braded hose.
P.S.
Holly Crap! I just read were you live. You should be able to find about a dozen places close by to either do the job for you or give you expert advise. One of the crewmen for a local team might help you out and the parts should be available locally.

mikejpss

This can NOT be said often enough. Its not a question of "if" a rubber fuel line will split, it's a matter of when.

1976 corvette

Thanks everyone for the replies. Yea, the rubber hose definitely has to go, no doubt.

boltnut- I don't like the air cleaner either. The miss the stock air cleaner but unfortunately it isn't deep enough to fit on the carb. A circular edelbrock cheap one will fit on the carb but ends up hitting the chrome distributor shield. So I ended up going with this the one shown in the top pictures for the time being until I find something better that will fit.




Locke- thanks for such a detail reply. I will see what I can find out here in Nascar land. Thanks

Mod75

Went with new a manifold and another holly 600, last one was tired 30+ years. Went from the rubber to this setup, lines and filter cost about 150.00 i think.
Some stuff from summit and some from speed shop in town.

Evren Erdogan

Hi I have all steel but a rubber connection for filter under pass side .I was attempting to replace the fuel filter such a night mare .fuel just keeps coming and dont stop at all .is there not any check valve in the system or what .if not ,even 100% of steel line would be too dangerous in a a possible accident .what do u guys think ?

MelWff

What year car and which engine. There is a rubber hose between fuel pump and frame, is that what you are referring to? There is no check valve.

Evren Erdogan

79 350 original block with holley .just bought it.there is a rubber line(about 7 inches long) which was leaking where the filter is behind right front wheel.I think they followed the regular fuel line .but I don't like the fuel keep coming something may damage this line .and would be too soon to blows out the car lol

MelWff

There should not be a filter at that location. How about posting some pictures of what was done to this fuel system. The rubber line goes between the frame and the fuel pump. Then the factory had a steel line going up from the pump to the Quadrajet carburetor and the filter was inside the carburetor. If you now have a Holley an external filter properly installed would be up near the carburetor spliced into the steel line.

Evren Erdogan

Well obviously they preferred to keep the rubber line away from engine. the location does not matter to me and it seems preety safe there but does the gas keep coming on your system when u unplug the rubber line ? That's the point that I don't feel very safe with . thank u for answering.