converting manual brakes to power
06-12-2011, 10:56 PM
#3
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
I posted a bunch on this a while back.. let me dig it up and I'll post it here for you.
You really don't need the kit.. it's not hard at all to do this.
You really don't need the kit.. it's not hard at all to do this.
06-12-2011, 10:58 PM
#4
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Hope it helps.
Keep in mind; I’m doing this from memory so if anyone wants to add to this feel free!
You will need both the power brake booster and a new master cylinder. Power brake and standard brake master cylinders are different.
The cars with standard brakes have two studs on the firewall; you will need to knock these out of the firewall (they will fall inside the car). Then using the two upper holes from the studs as a guide, mark the lower holes and drill them for the lower booster holes. The standard master cylinder uses studs on the firewall.. the power brake booster has studs on it.. so if you drive out the old studs, and use these two holes as a guide the studs on the booster will mark themselves for where to drill.. Hope this makes sense..
Once you do this, you’ll need to enlarge the hole in the firewall for the rod from the power brake booster. Yes it bolts to a different position on the pedal but doing this is real easy. If you look under your dash you’ll see a round hole on a non power brake car. On a power brake car it was egg looking. The inside reinforcement should for both power and standard had this egg looking hole made in to it and if you look under the dash you’ll see what portion of the fiberglass you’ll need to remove.
The standard brake and power brake lamp switch bracket were different, the power brake one is now available new. http://willcoxcorvette.com/product_i...ducts_id=12540
18243
Willcox Inc.
Keep in mind; I’m doing this from memory so if anyone wants to add to this feel free!
You will need both the power brake booster and a new master cylinder. Power brake and standard brake master cylinders are different.
The cars with standard brakes have two studs on the firewall; you will need to knock these out of the firewall (they will fall inside the car). Then using the two upper holes from the studs as a guide, mark the lower holes and drill them for the lower booster holes. The standard master cylinder uses studs on the firewall.. the power brake booster has studs on it.. so if you drive out the old studs, and use these two holes as a guide the studs on the booster will mark themselves for where to drill.. Hope this makes sense..
Once you do this, you’ll need to enlarge the hole in the firewall for the rod from the power brake booster. Yes it bolts to a different position on the pedal but doing this is real easy. If you look under your dash you’ll see a round hole on a non power brake car. On a power brake car it was egg looking. The inside reinforcement should for both power and standard had this egg looking hole made in to it and if you look under the dash you’ll see what portion of the fiberglass you’ll need to remove.
The standard brake and power brake lamp switch bracket were different, the power brake one is now available new. http://willcoxcorvette.com/product_i...ducts_id=12540
18243 Willcox Inc.
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; 07-09-2011 at 11:52 AM.
06-12-2011, 11:01 PM
#5
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
To add to this:
You'll need the booster master cylinder combination.. http://willcoxcorvette.com/product_i...ducts_id=22171 it is on sale too.. so if you use the code you'll save an extra 10 percent.
Willcox
You'll need the booster master cylinder combination.. http://willcoxcorvette.com/product_i...ducts_id=22171 it is on sale too.. so if you use the code you'll save an extra 10 percent.
Willcox
06-12-2011, 11:20 PM
#6
Le Mans Master
Yep, you'll also need to change the pushrod, and to relocate its clevis on the pedal arm. Check AIM illustrations to see the different holes for power vs manual brakes, and for other miscellaneous bits.
And, should you follow thru with this, I'd like the manual pushrod.
And, should you follow thru with this, I'd like the manual pushrod.
06-13-2011, 12:14 AM
#7
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
To me.. this is one of the easiest upgrades you can make. Low cost and very effective!
IMHO
IMHO
06-14-2011, 07:17 AM
#9
Racer
Thread Starter
The kit shows a lot more parts,Like new lines and clevis pin,curved washer and a retainer along with the new push rod.Doesn't the push rod come on the booster with the rubber boot?
06-14-2011, 10:26 PM
#12
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Tell you what.. tomorrow.. I'll post you the links to everything you need.. 
It won't be that hard to do the job. I just want to verify that I give you everything.. it will be cheaper than a kit and it will be the OEM stuff..
Willcox
It won't be that hard to do the job. I just want to verify that I give you everything.. it will be cheaper than a kit and it will be the OEM stuff..
Willcox
04-05-2014, 08:29 AM
#13
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Manual to power brakes
Hope it helps.
Keep in mind; I’m doing this from memory so if anyone wants to add to this feel free!
You will need both the power brake booster and a new master cylinder. Power brake and standard brake master cylinders are different.
The cars with standard brakes have two studs on the firewall; you will need to knock these out of the firewall (they will fall inside the car). Then using the two upper holes from the studs as a guide, mark the lower holes and drill them for the lower booster holes. The standard master cylinder uses studs on the firewall.. the power brake booster has studs on it.. so if you drive out the old studs, and use these two holes as a guide the studs on the booster will mark themselves for where to drill.. Hope this makes sense..
Once you do this, you’ll need to enlarge the hole in the firewall for the rod from the power brake booster. Yes it bolts to a different position on the pedal but doing this is real easy. If you look under your dash you’ll see a round hole on a non power brake car. On a power brake car it was egg looking. The inside reinforcement should for both power and standard had this egg looking hole made in to it and if you look under the dash you’ll see what portion of the fiberglass you’ll need to remove.
The standard brake and power brake lamp switch bracket were different, the power brake one is now available new. http://willcoxcorvette.com/product_i...ducts_id=12540
18243
Willcox Inc.
Keep in mind; I’m doing this from memory so if anyone wants to add to this feel free!
You will need both the power brake booster and a new master cylinder. Power brake and standard brake master cylinders are different.
The cars with standard brakes have two studs on the firewall; you will need to knock these out of the firewall (they will fall inside the car). Then using the two upper holes from the studs as a guide, mark the lower holes and drill them for the lower booster holes. The standard master cylinder uses studs on the firewall.. the power brake booster has studs on it.. so if you drive out the old studs, and use these two holes as a guide the studs on the booster will mark themselves for where to drill.. Hope this makes sense..
Once you do this, you’ll need to enlarge the hole in the firewall for the rod from the power brake booster. Yes it bolts to a different position on the pedal but doing this is real easy. If you look under your dash you’ll see a round hole on a non power brake car. On a power brake car it was egg looking. The inside reinforcement should for both power and standard had this egg looking hole made in to it and if you look under the dash you’ll see what portion of the fiberglass you’ll need to remove.
The standard brake and power brake lamp switch bracket were different, the power brake one is now available new. http://willcoxcorvette.com/product_i...ducts_id=12540
18243 Willcox Inc.
07-16-2014, 10:50 PM
#14
This tread is missing instructions on the additional parts needed for this conversion. I just ordered the booster and master cylinder from Willcox Corvette and sent them an email asking for a list of the additional parts mentioned in this thread. User Sweet70's last post asked for and answer to some questions he had and no response was posted. Can someone please fill in the blanks missing on this tread?
07-17-2014, 12:15 AM
#15
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Why on earth would anyone want to go from manual to power? Stopping
distance doesn't change, then there's the issue of a mushy pedal..
When brakes fail and they do, one more variable, is it the booster or the MC?
distance doesn't change, then there's the issue of a mushy pedal..
When brakes fail and they do, one more variable, is it the booster or the MC?
07-17-2014, 03:48 PM
#16
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This tread is missing instructions on the additional parts needed for this conversion. I just ordered the booster and master cylinder from Willcox Corvette and sent them an email asking for a list of the additional parts mentioned in this thread. User Sweet70's last post asked for and answer to some questions he had and no response was posted. Can someone please fill in the blanks missing on this tread?
07-17-2014, 10:10 PM
#17
Hi, this seems like really old history since my conversion is now complete. In the instructions given, I was trying to understand where the holes needed to be. Having done it now, this is what I would do if I were starting over. Make a template for the stud locations from your power brake booster ... not the gasket. Then position the top two holes in the template over the hole locations left from the removal of the manual master cylinder then mark the spots to be drilled for the lower two holes. The top two holes have anchor nuts that can be removed with a couple of sharp blows! When I fitted my power brake booster I found it really difficult to reach the top inside bolt ... hence my booster currently only has three nuts. Be sure to remove the drivers seat and place down something soft. You will need to relocate the clevis to the higher location on the clutch pedal. Also you will need to change the stop light striker and most likely adjust the stop light switch. If your car is still running okay I would leave this until at least fall. Hope this helps.
I am out here in Houston Texas and it is heating up. I don't think I can wait till fall. I just bought the car (1970 350/350 4spd, air with all matching #'s). I have been working on cars since forever (my first car was a 1966 Chevelle SS 396 4spd, second was a 67 Camero , third was a 68 corvette 427 4spd,air, telescoping, pwr windows t-tops). Divorce forced the sale of all of them over the years and I am just now getting back into the game. Wish I had them all back today but they sure were fun at the time
Once again..... Thanks
07-18-2014, 06:47 AM
#18
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Thank you for responding. I take it that you didn't have to buy any other part than the booster and master cylinder. Everything else it seems is just adjustments.
I am out here in Houston Texas and it is heating up. I don't think I can wait till fall. I just bought the car (1970 350/350 4spd, air with all matching #'s). I have been working on cars since forever (my first car was a 1966 Chevelle SS 396 4spd, second was a 67 Camero , third was a 68 corvette 427 4spd,air, telescoping, pwr windows t-tops). Divorce forced the sale of all of them over the years and I am just now getting back into the game. Wish I had them all back today but they sure were fun at the time
Once again..... Thanks
I am out here in Houston Texas and it is heating up. I don't think I can wait till fall. I just bought the car (1970 350/350 4spd, air with all matching #'s). I have been working on cars since forever (my first car was a 1966 Chevelle SS 396 4spd, second was a 67 Camero , third was a 68 corvette 427 4spd,air, telescoping, pwr windows t-tops). Divorce forced the sale of all of them over the years and I am just now getting back into the game. Wish I had them all back today but they sure were fun at the time
Once again..... Thanks
07-18-2014, 07:02 AM
#19
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Hi, this seems like really old history since my conversion is now complete. In the instructions given, I was trying to understand where the holes needed to be. Having done it now, this is what I would do if I were starting over. Make a template for the stud locations from your power brake booster ... not the gasket. Then position the top two holes in the template over the hole locations left from the removal of the manual master cylinder then mark the spots to be drilled for the lower two holes. The top two holes have anchor nuts that can be removed with a couple of sharp blows! When I fitted my power brake booster I found it really difficult to reach the top inside bolt ... hence my booster currently only has three nuts. Be sure to remove the drivers seat and place down something soft. You will need to relocate the clevis to the higher location on the clutch pedal. Also you will need to change the stop light striker and most likely adjust the stop light switch. If your car is still running okay I would leave this until at least fall. Hope this helps.
