The engine makes a good starting point for a build-up, the only thing is that if you make any changes to it, it voids the warrantee. Check out this article.

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...ild/index.html


Scott

 

Depending on how much umph you want, you MAY want to look into a short block, instead of a long block. But as mentioned, NO warrenty. I would keep doing what you are doing, asses the car fully. Go over it, make sure the brakes are solid, so on and so forth. Won't do to have a 250+hp motor in a car that has one system after another waiting to cause issues. Personally, though, after seeing the pics and vids, I think your car is OK, for the most part. I've seen worse. Just make sure those brakes are good, though, lol.

Now would also be a good time to decide what you want from the car. Racer? Weekend warrior? Cruiser and car show queen? Something in the middle of that, but on a budget? That'll go a long way to help you decide how to spend your money.

We like POR15 because it's tough and durable. It's hard to scratch it, which means it really is rust proof. One key area to check with the rad out, is a largish diameter round tube, kinda beneath where the rad was. Lot's of these cars have some pretty bad rust in this area.

Another item you HAVE to buy at this point is the Corvette Assembly Instruction Manual for your year. Corvette America sells good quality ones, after shipping I think it's about 40 bucks. Best 40 bucks you'll spend. It offers exploded views of EVERYTHING in your car, so you can see how it all comes apart, how it works, which helps diagnose problems. Makes even a junior mechanic like myself look pretty good, at times.

 

Alright can someone, tell me the different between headers and an exhaust manifold? I've seen posted online some say they're the same thing... But why would they have 2 completely different names?

 

That was a good write up, but where is Part 2? I want to read more on this!

 

I heard POR15 was UV sensitive, not to sure what that all means. I tried comparing it to Rust Bullet and theres just to much info haha. It seems like with POR15 you need a bunch of stuff. Can anyone show me exactly what I'd need?

Also, we saw their new neighbor down the street backing in a tarped car, went over to assist, and he was working on a 71 Camaro, he came over to look at my project and he recomended POR15, we saw it on his car and it looked nice, also a friend came over at the same time and they both said the radiator looked new, same with the AC Condeser.

And for the final question "Racer? Weekend warrior? Cruiser and car show queen? Something in the middle of that, but on a budget?"
It will be preferably a weekend car, but if I move to Fl where I can drive it more, I might. Racer? I'd like it to get up and move, but I'm 21 and she's my dream car/my baby, and I don't see myself racing people on the highway, don't need to be losing a license haha. Long haul I will have the interior restored, but right now my focus is it running. I don't have the money to do everything, I would have if the engine didn't blow, but now while I'm replacing this that and the other thing while it's out. I want this car done right, I realize I'm never going to get back what I put into it and I'm ok with that, so I will save up and work the interior/cosmetic stuff later in life.

Does that book answer your questions?

I really love when people pop their hood and I see that Edelbrock carb and 'air cleaners?'.. Like the new neighbor has, But I don't know much about cars so I don't know what's worth the money, it could just be worth more because of the name, were I could get better preformance from something else ect.

 

Manifolds come stock with your car. Thay are cast iron and very restrictive. Headers have a tube for each cylinder and a larger collector, much more efficient.
You probably don't need to worry about headers unless you're going to upgrade to dual exhaust.

 

The short block version of this Goodwrench engine is only about $100.00 cheaper, you get so much for the extra c-note, it's totally worth getting the long block, even if you just sell the extra parts on ebay or craig's list. I completely agree with getting an AIM. It is the manual that the assembly line workers used as a reference while assembling these cars, so it literally shows how EVERYTHING goes together. It's great for identifying missing parts, too. It's a little difficult to read, it's not set up to be used the way we use it, but the info is all in there somewhere, ya just have to find it. And there is some really good stuff in there that ya just can't find anywhere else. Somebody should make a good table of contents for the different AIMs (hint, hint)


Scott

 

Headers:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G9003/?rtype=10

Manifold:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RNB-674-501/?rtype=10


Scott

 

OK, for those of you who are too lazy to do a Google search, here are some links:

Part 2:
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te..._ii/index.html

Part 3:
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...iii/index.html

Part 4:
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te..._iv/index.html

Part 5:
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...d_v/index.html

Part 6:
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te..._vi/index.html

Part 7:
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...vii/index.html

Part 8:
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...iii/index.html

Enjoy!


Scott

 

Ok 2 questions.
1. We're just waiting for my Father's friends engine lift, so for the sake of it I decided to take a peak under the carpet and check it out, there was no insulation which explains why it gets hot on the feet, but the floor seemed like it was made of plastic. Is this somewat accurate or is my floor junk or something? Should I worry about this lol. If it's made of plastic I can't imagine what the weight limit would be on a passanger, I can tell you no obesse passangers will be in my car.

2. Thanks for all the info Scott, you've been really helpful, on that note. I do not have dual exhausts so would there really be any advantage 1 over the other? Personally I think those headers look far better, but I don't fully understand how the manifolds work, I can't seem to find a close up picture of one actually mounted.

 

Typically, headers need to be paired with a free flowing dual exhaust system to get the most benefit from them. If money is tight, you will be better served with a 2 1/2" dual exhaust using the stock exhaust manifolds, than with a set of headers using the stock exhaust pipes.

Headers certainly do look cool, and, when paired with a free breathing exhuast system, will increase torque and horsepower, but there are some drawbacks. Headers are a little more likely to experience exhaust leaks, noise will increase, because of the sheet metal construction as opposed to cast iron, clearance can be a possible issue, etc. I don't consider myself nearly knowlegable enough to give a really concise description, but if you Google search the subject, I am sure there is a lot of stuff on the subject out there.


Scott

 

looking at this video, you already have headers . I'll stand corrected ... but they look like headers to me

 

What's a google ?

 

Never mind what a google is, what the heck is that contraption on your avatar?


Scott

 

 

A Chevy flux capacitor

 

That's the prototype of the ultimate battery cutoff switch.

 

 

POR15 is the best anti rust paint. You should do all of the parts that you can with it. You need the POR15 metal ready and marine clean, along with the POR 15 itself. The marine clean cleans the metal and the metal ready etches it so the paint adheres to the best of its capability.

Good luck on your project, despite setbacks like thise you will end up with a great car!

Will

 

Roger, you are using a flux capacitor as a battery cutoff switch? Do you have any idea how dangerous that is? You could re-connect your battery and suddenly find yourself back in the '50s!!!!!!


Scott