LS3 into my 72
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,496
Likes: 6
From: springfield ohio
Hey Gordonm, Did you decide to Tig weld it? Whats your thoughts on how to refinish it the area that is being modified?
Since mine was replaced with stainless, welded with stainless wire, and the Aluminized ceramic coated part of the header was not damaged, I didn't coat the header with any high temp paint. In stead I just wrapped it with header wrap and will seal them both once the other header is wrapped.
One of the drawl backs for using header wrap is that if you normally run the car in the rain and the wrap gets wet, over time they will rust, but I try to keep the car out of the rain and I will be sealing them with High temp header paint, also to guard against oils spilling onto the headers and possibly have a fire with oil soaked header wrap. Wrapping them will also cut down on cabin and engine bay temperatures.
Over all I do like the quality that these headers have, nice mandrel bent tubing and great looking welds, I just wish they Incorporated this offset into their design.
Riggs.
Since mine was replaced with stainless, welded with stainless wire, and the Aluminized ceramic coated part of the header was not damaged, I didn't coat the header with any high temp paint. In stead I just wrapped it with header wrap and will seal them both once the other header is wrapped.
One of the drawl backs for using header wrap is that if you normally run the car in the rain and the wrap gets wet, over time they will rust, but I try to keep the car out of the rain and I will be sealing them with High temp header paint, also to guard against oils spilling onto the headers and possibly have a fire with oil soaked header wrap. Wrapping them will also cut down on cabin and engine bay temperatures.
Over all I do like the quality that these headers have, nice mandrel bent tubing and great looking welds, I just wish they Incorporated this offset into their design.
Riggs.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
Yes he is going to tig weld the pipe in. He used to build custom headers a few years ago and wants to get back into it. He wants to use steel instead of stainless. He just thinks the expansion properties of the two is going to be enough that over time it may crack or seperate. I don't know about that but it does have some merit. I will probably end up once it is all done just recoating the whole header. I know it is expensive and wish I had gotten them uncoated now but what can you do. He is also going to makea 3 inch pipe from the headers to my existing 2 1/2 system down the road.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,496
Likes: 6
From: springfield ohio
You know, I never really gave that a thought about the possibility of them cracking with the expansion and contraction, I hope that doesn't give me any problems. Maybe with them being wrapped I can control the heating and cooling cycles and not have the modification fail.
Riggs.
Riggs.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
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From: Forked River NJ
I just bought a 16 gauge steel 180 bend for him to work with. Should be here by the end of the week. Hopefully yours will be OK but I would keep an eye on it for the first few heat and cool cycles and see what happens.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
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From: Forked River NJ
Just a little more. I got the radiator in and also ran the straight fittings off the water pump fittings instead of the 45s. Much nicer look and cleaner install. The hoses route perfectly right back to the VA fittings. I also laid in the complete new LS harness and I had to modify it slightly. I was able to pull the harness apart and route the coil plug back a little further in the harness so I could relocate them. You can see that in a previous post but they are just about in the perfect position now. All the other connectors look to be in position. I am mounting the ECM and the fuse panel in the right hand fender area. I just mocked it all up and am making some brackets for it all now.
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Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
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From: Forked River NJ
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
Slowly making progress. The wiring on this is extensive and getting it all to fit nicely is a real challenge. I have had to take harnesses apart and move things and rework them. Did some wiring up of the VA AC unit today and got it pretty well situated. Also put on a terminal power block for fans, AC, Computer, and various other things as needed. Plug wires on this side are OK.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,496
Likes: 6
From: springfield ohio
Hey Gordon, the fitting you used on the temperature sending unit, did you find a set up that allowed the sender to fit into the adapter, or did you have to dill out the adapter? The one I used, I had to drill out the adapter to accept the 1/8'' sending unit, the center of the adapter wouldn't allow the sensor to pass through. Just wondering, I wasn't sure if there was a better setup than what I found.
Is this the adapter you used?http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ATM-2277/
And the sending unit?http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SMP-TS198/
Your set up is looking great, are you getting anxious to fire that LS up? I'm close, but with the time I can put towards it, it will still be a while.
Riggs
Is this the adapter you used?http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ATM-2277/
And the sending unit?http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SMP-TS198/
Your set up is looking great, are you getting anxious to fire that LS up? I'm close, but with the time I can put towards it, it will still be a while.
Riggs
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 12,146
Likes: 2,038
From: Easton, PA
St. Jude Donor '10
Going To Be A Fun Spring...
Gordon, you should start making plans to bring this up to my neck of the woods and John T's as well to a couple of shows this year. I know of two shows that would absolutely love to have this engine swap to show folks. One is late June, the other is early August, and there is always Carlisle this year where I will be taking Sparty...would love to have you consider bringing your car this year. Looking great sir, keep the momentum going. 
David
David
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 2,207
Likes: 26
From: Ocean County NJ
Hey G! Are you using multiple wiring diagrams and creating a hybrid electrical system tying in 72 and newer components? Did you upgrade your fuse panel or will you have 2? I know, dumb questions, but curious to know how you accommodate the newer power requirements. Looks awesome!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 2,207
Likes: 26
From: Ocean County NJ
Gordon, you should start making plans to bring this up to my neck of the woods and John T's as well to a couple of shows this year. I know of two shows that would absolutely love to have this engine swap to show folks. One is late June, the other is early August, and there is always Carlisle this year where I will be taking Sparty...would love to have you consider bringing your car this year. Looking great sir, keep the momentum going.
David
David
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
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From: Forked River NJ
Hey G! Are you using multiple wiring diagrams and creating a hybrid electrical system tying in 72 and newer components? Did you upgrade your fuse panel or will you have 2? I know, dumb questions, but curious to know how you accommodate the newer power requirements. Looks awesome!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 2,207
Likes: 26
From: Ocean County NJ
Yes Mike there is a seperate fuse panel for the LS3 harness with its own fuse panel. The AC system has its own relays. Most of the original 72 harness is there for the lights side. The engine harness some is still being used but the rest is all new custom wiring. I don't even have the main harness for the LS yet in the car. It is big.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
You have no idea how many hours I have spent making sure it fits and is in the right place. I have not even gotten to the main harness yet. The wiring is by far the most time consuming part so far on this project. To do it right is the time consuming part.
Instructor
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
From: Houston TX
Late to your thread, been trying to work some bugs out of my recently complete LS3 swap project. I just posted on the LSx swap directory.
Many of your issues were mine also, particularly the wp heater conn.
I used the later model water pump which has less room for moving the conn to the top. So I located the return to underside which is shown below. Also, notice the steam line conn on top.
Your valve covers and fuel rail mods are impressive. Would never think to relocate the coils and not sure if I have firewall room anyway.
Interested to see how you mount the ECM. I put mine on drivers side wheel well. Don't have a ready pic but will try to document later.
Many of your issues were mine also, particularly the wp heater conn.
I used the later model water pump which has less room for moving the conn to the top. So I located the return to underside which is shown below. Also, notice the steam line conn on top.
Your valve covers and fuel rail mods are impressive. Would never think to relocate the coils and not sure if I have firewall room anyway.
Interested to see how you mount the ECM. I put mine on drivers side wheel well. Don't have a ready pic but will try to document later.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,920
Likes: 229
From: Oakbank Manitoba
Gordon, here is some interesting reading for you when installing a Vintage Air setup with a LS motor. Start at post #91. http://www.ffcars.com/forums/42-fact...ntation-3.html
The problem of overheating occurs when the Vintage Air is left in MAX AIR position. This position closes the water valve to the heater core. A LS engines water heater outlets on the side of the water pump are designed to always have a flow of coolant going thru them. There are two different valves that can be installed in place of the one supplied by Vintage Air. One of them is vacuum operated and the other is electronic. They both have an additional port to allow the coolant to return to the water heater outlet on the waterpump when in MAX AIR position. I can give you a link to both of them if you think this is needed for you.
The problem of overheating occurs when the Vintage Air is left in MAX AIR position. This position closes the water valve to the heater core. A LS engines water heater outlets on the side of the water pump are designed to always have a flow of coolant going thru them. There are two different valves that can be installed in place of the one supplied by Vintage Air. One of them is vacuum operated and the other is electronic. They both have an additional port to allow the coolant to return to the water heater outlet on the waterpump when in MAX AIR position. I can give you a link to both of them if you think this is needed for you.