Body Off Picture Guide/Did I miss anything?
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Body Off Picture Guide/Did I miss anything?
Hey everyone, I am making progress still and taking lots of pictures in the body off project on my 74', and so I thought I would make a little body off picture checklist! I hope that this can help someone doing the same thing!
I am also checking to make sure I haven't missed anything ... thankyou!
It will be a lengthy post mostly just pictures...
First off: All body mount bolts removed. Had to cut the heads off of 3, the rest either broke or came out!
........................................ .......Big Stuff
Radiator removed-
Front bumper assembly removed- nose supported-
Rear bumper removed-
Fuel line disconnected-
Compressor disconnected-
Steering column removed-
Clutch rod disconnected-
Brake lines disconnected-
Proportioning valve disconnected-
Tachometer drive disconnected-
Speedometer drive not disconnected but I am aware of it-
Seat belt reinforcements disconnected-
Parking brake cable disconnected- (I couldn't get the bolt past the pulley, hopefully it will when we are lifting the body.)
........................................ .......Wires
Alternator disconnected-
Compressor wires disconnected-
Electric fan controller disconnected-
Oil pressure sending unit disconnected-
HEI and brake booster disconnected-
Starter disconnected-
Reverse sensor not disconnected but I am aware of it-
Also disconnected: The temp sending unit. (No Pic)
........................................ .......Grounds
#1 Body mount ground-
#4 Body mount ground-
Antenna ground-
Main battery ground-
........................................ .......Conclusion
I have to remove the ball and t-handle on the shifter. I also plan to remove the seats and battery to lighten the body. The hood will come off before the lift.
I am calling in all my buddies for the lift... similar to in this youtube video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PrweU0mZXAE
-Body dolly is constructed.... no castors I won't need to move the body.
-Rocker channel replacements will weld in.
-New brake lines
-New fuel lines
-Change tranny and differential fluid
-POR-15 entire frame and suspension.
-New body mounts, and replacing the rotted #4 mount reinforcement plate by the ground.
---------Driving her next summer!!!!
Thank you for any advice/comments or things I forgot!
-Danny
I am also checking to make sure I haven't missed anything ... thankyou!
It will be a lengthy post mostly just pictures...
First off: All body mount bolts removed. Had to cut the heads off of 3, the rest either broke or came out!
........................................ .......Big Stuff
Radiator removed-
Front bumper assembly removed- nose supported-
Rear bumper removed-
Fuel line disconnected-
Compressor disconnected-
Steering column removed-
Clutch rod disconnected-
Brake lines disconnected-
Proportioning valve disconnected-
Tachometer drive disconnected-
Speedometer drive not disconnected but I am aware of it-
Seat belt reinforcements disconnected-
Parking brake cable disconnected- (I couldn't get the bolt past the pulley, hopefully it will when we are lifting the body.)
........................................ .......Wires
Alternator disconnected-
Compressor wires disconnected-
Electric fan controller disconnected-
Oil pressure sending unit disconnected-
HEI and brake booster disconnected-
Reverse sensor not disconnected but I am aware of it-
Also disconnected: The temp sending unit. (No Pic)
........................................ .......Grounds
#1 Body mount ground-
#4 Body mount ground-
Antenna ground-
Main battery ground-
........................................ .......Conclusion
I have to remove the ball and t-handle on the shifter. I also plan to remove the seats and battery to lighten the body. The hood will come off before the lift.
I am calling in all my buddies for the lift... similar to in this youtube video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PrweU0mZXAE
-Body dolly is constructed.... no castors I won't need to move the body.
-Rocker channel replacements will weld in.
-New brake lines
-New fuel lines
-Change tranny and differential fluid
-POR-15 entire frame and suspension.
-New body mounts, and replacing the rotted #4 mount reinforcement plate by the ground.
---------Driving her next summer!!!!
Thank you for any advice/comments or things I forgot!
-Danny
#3
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2006
Location: Westminster Maryland
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Hi Danny,
Nice List! and Pictures!.
How about the forward lighting harness at the compartment side if the fuse block?
Good Luck with the LIFT!
Regards,
Alan
Nice List! and Pictures!.
How about the forward lighting harness at the compartment side if the fuse block?
Good Luck with the LIFT!
Regards,
Alan
#4
Instructor
Thread Starter
Got em now, thankyou AzMotorhead!
At the intake manifold...
At the water pump...
Do I just need to disconnect it there at the fuse box?
Thankyou! The lift is coming soon with a video and pics!
#5
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2006
Location: Westminster Maryland
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Hi R,
Now that I think about it the lighting harnesses are really o.k.! Sorry for the false alarm!
If you have everything disconnected that runs from from the engine to the engine harness, (which stays with the body), you're o.k..
The only connection I missed when I lifted the body o my 71 was the ground wire on the rear starter mounting bolt. The wire made the nicest little 'ping' as it broke.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
Now that I think about it the lighting harnesses are really o.k.! Sorry for the false alarm!
If you have everything disconnected that runs from from the engine to the engine harness, (which stays with the body), you're o.k..
The only connection I missed when I lifted the body o my 71 was the ground wire on the rear starter mounting bolt. The wire made the nicest little 'ping' as it broke.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
#6
Safety Car
Here is the list I made when I did my 73 just in case you missed anything. I am sure I did not get everything.
Remove:
From Rear;
1.) The rear bumpers and support brackets
2.) License plate bezel and exhaust bezels
3.) Valence panel
4.) Ground strap from antenna
5.) Gas tank ground and sending unit wire
From Front;
1.) Valence panel and air dam
2.) Unbolt nose support from frame (will stay with body)
3.) Starter wires
4.) Ground straps (more than one place)
5.) Carbon can vacuum line
6.) Oil pressure gage line from motor
7.) Throttle cable from motor
8.) Coil wires
9.) Heater and A/C hoses from motor
10.) Alternator wires and temperature sending unit wire
11.) Radiator hose and transmission cooling lines (radiator should be removed or it will stay with the body)
From Center;
1.) Parking brake cable and brackets from under seat area
2.) Shifter cable and down shift wire (automatic) and speedometer cable
3.) Battery ground strap from frame
4.) Rocker moldings
Remove:
From Rear;
1.) The rear bumpers and support brackets
2.) License plate bezel and exhaust bezels
3.) Valence panel
4.) Ground strap from antenna
5.) Gas tank ground and sending unit wire
From Front;
1.) Valence panel and air dam
2.) Unbolt nose support from frame (will stay with body)
3.) Starter wires
4.) Ground straps (more than one place)
5.) Carbon can vacuum line
6.) Oil pressure gage line from motor
7.) Throttle cable from motor
8.) Coil wires
9.) Heater and A/C hoses from motor
10.) Alternator wires and temperature sending unit wire
11.) Radiator hose and transmission cooling lines (radiator should be removed or it will stay with the body)
From Center;
1.) Parking brake cable and brackets from under seat area
2.) Shifter cable and down shift wire (automatic) and speedometer cable
3.) Battery ground strap from frame
4.) Rocker moldings
#7
Instructor
Thread Starter
Hi R,
Now that I think about it the lighting harnesses are really o.k.! Sorry for the false alarm!
If you have everything disconnected that runs from from the engine to the engine harness, (which stays with the body), you're o.k..
The only connection I missed when I lifted the body o my 71 was the ground wire on the rear starter mounting bolt. The wire made the nicest little 'ping' as it broke.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
Now that I think about it the lighting harnesses are really o.k.! Sorry for the false alarm!
If you have everything disconnected that runs from from the engine to the engine harness, (which stays with the body), you're o.k..
The only connection I missed when I lifted the body o my 71 was the ground wire on the rear starter mounting bolt. The wire made the nicest little 'ping' as it broke.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
Redwingvette, thankyou, I forgot the gas tank sending unit wire and its ground!
-Danny
#8
Race Director
My only suggestion is that you lift it VERY slowly.
Maybe a few inches, then look, a few more, look again, ....
as you'll more than likely still have one or two pesky wires that were forgotten.
I also didn't see anything about your oil pressure line. or disconnecting the throttle cable...
Sandblasting isn't that bad or hard. if it were me i'd take the suspension off and rent a compressor and blaster for a day(if you don't have one) and get it blasted before you Por15 it.
Maybe a few inches, then look, a few more, look again, ....
as you'll more than likely still have one or two pesky wires that were forgotten.
I also didn't see anything about your oil pressure line. or disconnecting the throttle cable...
Sandblasting isn't that bad or hard. if it were me i'd take the suspension off and rent a compressor and blaster for a day(if you don't have one) and get it blasted before you Por15 it.
#9
Drifting
You didn't need to unbolt the proportioning valve but do remove the wire.
Unbolt the parking brake pulley
If you don't remove the distrbutor at least remove the cap.
Rocker covers and splash shields
Support the front end when lifting
Be sure the tail light harness isn't attached to the frame rail
Mike
Unbolt the parking brake pulley
If you don't remove the distrbutor at least remove the cap.
Rocker covers and splash shields
Support the front end when lifting
Be sure the tail light harness isn't attached to the frame rail
Mike
#10
Instructor
Thread Starter
My only suggestion is that you lift it VERY slowly.
Maybe a few inches, then look, a few more, look again, ....
as you'll more than likely still have one or two pesky wires that were forgotten.
I also didn't see anything about your oil pressure line. or disconnecting the throttle cable...
Sandblasting isn't that bad or hard. if it were me i'd take the suspension off and rent a compressor and blaster for a day(if you don't have one) and get it blasted before you Por15 it.
Maybe a few inches, then look, a few more, look again, ....
as you'll more than likely still have one or two pesky wires that were forgotten.
I also didn't see anything about your oil pressure line. or disconnecting the throttle cable...
Sandblasting isn't that bad or hard. if it were me i'd take the suspension off and rent a compressor and blaster for a day(if you don't have one) and get it blasted before you Por15 it.
Thank you Punisher Vette
You didn't need to unbolt the proportioning valve but do remove the wire.
Unbolt the parking brake pulley
If you don't remove the distrbutor at least remove the cap.
Rocker covers and splash shields
Support the front end when lifting
Be sure the tail light harness isn't attached to the frame rail
Mike
Unbolt the parking brake pulley
If you don't remove the distrbutor at least remove the cap.
Rocker covers and splash shields
Support the front end when lifting
Be sure the tail light harness isn't attached to the frame rail
Mike
Thank you, TracDogg
Forgot to mention, The rocker channel covers and splash shields are already off-
A question: Is it 100% neccessary to remove the hood for the lift? My thoughts are that it adds some rigidity to the nose possibly....
More to follow...
-Danny
Last edited by Raider74; 10-11-2011 at 04:56 PM.
#11
Race Director
I have a pretty good compressor, I'll follow your advice and blast the frame. My car has the fully electric oil pressure guage, no oil line just the one wire. I did disconnect the throttle cable I just forgot to mention it. When I get to it I'll snag some more pictures as I get some more of the stuff I forgot to complete my report.
Thank you Punisher Vette
Ill get that wire on the proportioning valve, and unbolt the pulley on the parking brake. Good idea too about the distributor cap, I'll get that out of there.
Thank you, TracDogg
Forgot to mention, The rocker channel covers and splash shields are already off-
A question: Is it 100% neccessary to remove the hood for the lift? My thoughts are that it adds some rigidity to the nose possibly....
More to follow...
-Danny
Thank you Punisher Vette
Ill get that wire on the proportioning valve, and unbolt the pulley on the parking brake. Good idea too about the distributor cap, I'll get that out of there.
Thank you, TracDogg
Forgot to mention, The rocker channel covers and splash shields are already off-
A question: Is it 100% neccessary to remove the hood for the lift? My thoughts are that it adds some rigidity to the nose possibly....
More to follow...
-Danny
It's just nice getting the radiator and headlights out with the hood off for me.
I added 2 more straps to my 4 lifting straps to support that front end more. But if you have people helping you lift just put someone up front and you should be okay.
#12
Advanced
Excellent list! I wish I had done something similar back in 2007 when I lifted the body off my '74. It would certainly help with the reassembly!!
I sandblasted my frame also and it did an superb job. I have a good 5hp compressor but had to rent a gas unit as the air consumption was more than mine could supply. Plus it was running constantly and I figured I was just wearing out my compressor for the sake of a few dollars to rent one with a much better capacity.
My body went back on just this past May. The restoration continues and she's not running yet.... but very close.
Good luck with your rebuild. I hope you do get a ride in her next summer!!
I sandblasted my frame also and it did an superb job. I have a good 5hp compressor but had to rent a gas unit as the air consumption was more than mine could supply. Plus it was running constantly and I figured I was just wearing out my compressor for the sake of a few dollars to rent one with a much better capacity.
My body went back on just this past May. The restoration continues and she's not running yet.... but very close.
Good luck with your rebuild. I hope you do get a ride in her next summer!!
#13
Drifting
In my opinion , yes, remove the hood. And the headlight assemblies. That is a lot of weight putting load on the fender lips. Any weight forward of the wheel wells will cause the fender lips to bend outer and may cause them to crack.
#14
When I pulled the body off my 74 (yes, rotten #4 body mounts), I disconnected the backup light harness without noticing the wires were still in the brackets that guide it away from the hot engine. Yanked that sucker right off when the body came up.
#15
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Member Since: Jun 2006
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Sorry for the late post; this thread came up as part of a search I was doing. I was just throwing in my .02 and hit submit before I noticed the date...
Make sure you have enough guys, especially if you're going slow. Invite 12 and maybe 6 will show. Dedicate someone to be the 'underneath lookout' with a pair of heavy duty wire cutters and some other hand tools close at hand to take care of any missed items as you lift. There is nothing worse than a bunch of old guys with bad backs (in my case) trying to hold up the body halfway up and figure out what is caught or still connected.
And no beer until after the lift...
Make sure you have enough guys, especially if you're going slow. Invite 12 and maybe 6 will show. Dedicate someone to be the 'underneath lookout' with a pair of heavy duty wire cutters and some other hand tools close at hand to take care of any missed items as you lift. There is nothing worse than a bunch of old guys with bad backs (in my case) trying to hold up the body halfway up and figure out what is caught or still connected.
And no beer until after the lift...
Last edited by MyRed69; 02-29-2012 at 09:14 PM. Reason: oops
#16
Team Owner
If you leave the doors and hood on the body, you'll have a LOT more weight. I'm not sure 12 guys could lift it. And, the more folks you have to orchestrate, the more difficult it is to do it 'together'.
#17
Melting Slicks
The hood really doesn't weigh much at all. I could hold mine parallel to the ground without a problem, they're light.
Doors can be heavy, more so for the 73 and later where crash reinforcements were installed. Could be off of the year these came in?
I believe most of the weight comes from the birdcage and door shells.
Agree with an earlier poster, remove the headlight units. They're a lot of weight to have hanging out on the end of the front clip without bracing to keep the nose from sagging.
Doors can be heavy, more so for the 73 and later where crash reinforcements were installed. Could be off of the year these came in?
I believe most of the weight comes from the birdcage and door shells.
Agree with an earlier poster, remove the headlight units. They're a lot of weight to have hanging out on the end of the front clip without bracing to keep the nose from sagging.
#18
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Right after my lift with seven guys and the wife doing the orchestration (she was the only able to see everything) while pushing the frame out from under and pushing the dolly back under... She rocks she even helps with the riveting. That was a year and a half ago +- now I wish i would have removed the headlights and the front bumper before the lift.
Last edited by MyRed69; 03-02-2012 at 02:15 AM.