My new slightly modified ZZ383!! Long post w/pictures!
#1
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My new slightly modified ZZ383!! Long post w/pictures!
Some of you guys have followed my various ZZ383, Super ZZ4, 400, 454...etc threads in the search for the right motor for me. A year or more ago I toyed with the idea of increasing the power in my 72 coupe, from modifying my current ZZ4, to going with a BB 454, to a 406, plus several other options, and you guys gave varying comments, criticisms, advice..ALL GOOD STUFF!
I finally decided that I wanted to keep the simplicity and weight of a small block, but wanted to "approach" the HP/TQ of a big block. The 383 Stroker seemed to be the best compromise for my driving style, mechanical abilities, and budget.
Endless research of all the crate motors out there, pricing, components, warranties, advice, etc... I settled on a ZZ383 I found on Craigslist!! out in the midwest. It was brand new, never uncrated, and about HALF the price of a new one from GM. Actually it was still under warranty when I bought it, but subsequently the warranty expired before I could get it together.
I found now-defunct Sallee Chevrolet's website, a dealer that was in Pendleton,OR that modified performance GMPP crate engines to achieve better HP/TQ.
This link allows you to take a look at some of the motors they put together and sold. Since the website is no longer maintained, it takes a bit of patience to navigate...
http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/Chev...8s/383-500.cfm
I was going to modify my ZZ4 to their "Super ZZ4"
http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/Chev...8s/safrzz4.cfm
Finally decided I liked the torque inherent in the longer stroke of a 383... Thats when I went looking for a ZZ383 long block, and found the one in Kansas City...
FINALLY, after sourcing the parts on the ZZ383-500 spec sheet (AFR 195's, Air Gap, etc)... I decided, upon the advice from several Forum members, 63mako, MotorHead, among others, that I could do better than an "off the shelf" cam. I contacted Chris Straub http://www.straubtechnologies.com/ ... Chris took all my info (383, 2004R, 2400 stall, 3.08's, RPM Air Gap, driving habits and HP/TQ goals, etc) and he custom cut a cam, together with Morel lifters, Scorpion rockers, Smith Bros pushrods, Cloyes billet timing assembly, Felpro gaskets, ARP hardware, etc.
I decided I really wanted a pro to install the AFR heads and all the components from Straub Technologies. I approached Bud at Bud's Machine Shop http://www.budsmachine.com/index.php in Lakewood, WA (a GREAT guy and a true motor head, in business for 40 yrs!) for assistance. I was going to do the work, with Bud's assistance, but when he told me he would do it all for "a few hundred dollars" (all told, $429 to be exact!) I couldn't turn him down! I brought it home yesterday!
FYI, the AFR 195 heads were milled from 65CC to 58cc as per Sallee's 383-500, boosting CR from 9.9:1 to just over 10.3:1. Cam specs are listed below. Per Lars Grimsrud's recommendation, I plan to use a Holley Ultra 770 (for the vacuum secondaries, 4 corner idle, and electric choke). I have a high torque starter, Edelbrock Victor short polished water pump, Holley 110 gph mechanical fuel pump, Russell fuel lines from pump to carb, and the HEI distributor off my ZZ4.
So in the next weeks, I'll get the ZZ4 out and put the 383 in!! I'll post more pix as I progress...
Could I have done "better"??? Probably, but I think this motor will put a big smile on my face, it was affordable, and I think I will really enjoy it!! Can't wait to fire it up for the first time!
I finally decided that I wanted to keep the simplicity and weight of a small block, but wanted to "approach" the HP/TQ of a big block. The 383 Stroker seemed to be the best compromise for my driving style, mechanical abilities, and budget.
Endless research of all the crate motors out there, pricing, components, warranties, advice, etc... I settled on a ZZ383 I found on Craigslist!! out in the midwest. It was brand new, never uncrated, and about HALF the price of a new one from GM. Actually it was still under warranty when I bought it, but subsequently the warranty expired before I could get it together.
I found now-defunct Sallee Chevrolet's website, a dealer that was in Pendleton,OR that modified performance GMPP crate engines to achieve better HP/TQ.
This link allows you to take a look at some of the motors they put together and sold. Since the website is no longer maintained, it takes a bit of patience to navigate...
http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/Chev...8s/383-500.cfm
I was going to modify my ZZ4 to their "Super ZZ4"
http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/Chev...8s/safrzz4.cfm
Finally decided I liked the torque inherent in the longer stroke of a 383... Thats when I went looking for a ZZ383 long block, and found the one in Kansas City...
FINALLY, after sourcing the parts on the ZZ383-500 spec sheet (AFR 195's, Air Gap, etc)... I decided, upon the advice from several Forum members, 63mako, MotorHead, among others, that I could do better than an "off the shelf" cam. I contacted Chris Straub http://www.straubtechnologies.com/ ... Chris took all my info (383, 2004R, 2400 stall, 3.08's, RPM Air Gap, driving habits and HP/TQ goals, etc) and he custom cut a cam, together with Morel lifters, Scorpion rockers, Smith Bros pushrods, Cloyes billet timing assembly, Felpro gaskets, ARP hardware, etc.
I decided I really wanted a pro to install the AFR heads and all the components from Straub Technologies. I approached Bud at Bud's Machine Shop http://www.budsmachine.com/index.php in Lakewood, WA (a GREAT guy and a true motor head, in business for 40 yrs!) for assistance. I was going to do the work, with Bud's assistance, but when he told me he would do it all for "a few hundred dollars" (all told, $429 to be exact!) I couldn't turn him down! I brought it home yesterday!
FYI, the AFR 195 heads were milled from 65CC to 58cc as per Sallee's 383-500, boosting CR from 9.9:1 to just over 10.3:1. Cam specs are listed below. Per Lars Grimsrud's recommendation, I plan to use a Holley Ultra 770 (for the vacuum secondaries, 4 corner idle, and electric choke). I have a high torque starter, Edelbrock Victor short polished water pump, Holley 110 gph mechanical fuel pump, Russell fuel lines from pump to carb, and the HEI distributor off my ZZ4.
So in the next weeks, I'll get the ZZ4 out and put the 383 in!! I'll post more pix as I progress...
Could I have done "better"??? Probably, but I think this motor will put a big smile on my face, it was affordable, and I think I will really enjoy it!! Can't wait to fire it up for the first time!
Last edited by MakoShark72; 11-10-2011 at 11:34 AM.
#3
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#8
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Member Since: Sep 2006
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Hi MS72,
VERY NICE!!!!
If you end up with a few too many horses would you mind sending them East?
Perhaps I could slip them in without anyone noticing?!?
It sounds like there's big fun ahead for you!
Regards,
Alan
VERY NICE!!!!
If you end up with a few too many horses would you mind sending them East?
Perhaps I could slip them in without anyone noticing?!?
It sounds like there's big fun ahead for you!
Regards,
Alan
#9
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Hey Alan!
There's not much under my hood (or on my car for that matter!) that would be appropriate for that gorgeous "work of art" of yours!!!
Thanks!
There's not much under my hood (or on my car for that matter!) that would be appropriate for that gorgeous "work of art" of yours!!!
Thanks!
#11
Le Mans Master
Youre probably gonna want a little more then 2400 rpm stall speed though.... Especially with 3.08s. I would look into getting a Yank or Vigilante or something that will flash to about 3800 rpms or so with the 3.08s and still have the lock up feature. It will drive fine around town and really let the engine scream from the hit when you nail it..... It may be a tad lazy with the 2400 out of the hole....
#12
Team Owner
Were you told your final C/R? I had a similar cam in my first 383 232/238 112.
You are going to need a recourved dizzy of some sort. you are going to need 14 - 18 degrees of initial advance and a max total of around 34 degrees. Without the vac adv. Maybe shoot for all advance in at 2800 -3000 rpm.
rollers smooth out and create more vacuum with very high initial advance. AFR and other fast burn chamber heads require less total advance to make max hp
You will like the 383 with an H-roller.
You are going to need a recourved dizzy of some sort. you are going to need 14 - 18 degrees of initial advance and a max total of around 34 degrees. Without the vac adv. Maybe shoot for all advance in at 2800 -3000 rpm.
rollers smooth out and create more vacuum with very high initial advance. AFR and other fast burn chamber heads require less total advance to make max hp
You will like the 383 with an H-roller.
#16
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Isn't converter stall supposed to be approx the rpm where the motor makes the most torque?? So I'd have to know that number or approx?
Right or am I misinformed?
Thanks
#17
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St. Jude Donor '05
You made some good choices as far as useable power longevity etc.
Gonna love how that one runs, repeatable reliable power over and over.
Will last a long time.
I could never get the "build reliable" part down.
Always turns into 1/4 mi reliable. maybe.
Id use a little more stall....regear then toss a 700r in.
Gonna love how that one runs, repeatable reliable power over and over.
Will last a long time.
I could never get the "build reliable" part down.
Always turns into 1/4 mi reliable. maybe.
Id use a little more stall....regear then toss a 700r in.
#18
Safety Car
Thread Starter
You made some good choices as far as useable power longevity etc.
Gonna love how that one runs, repeatable reliable power over and over.
Will last a long time.
I could never get the "build reliable" part down.
Always turns into 1/4 mi reliable. maybe.
Id use a little more stall....regear then toss a 700r in.
Gonna love how that one runs, repeatable reliable power over and over.
Will last a long time.
I could never get the "build reliable" part down.
Always turns into 1/4 mi reliable. maybe.
Id use a little more stall....regear then toss a 700r in.
Thanks for any advice...
#19
Burning Brakes
Member Since: May 2009
Location: Tucson AZ
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St. Jude Donor '12
Yep, but just HOW MUCH stall? Strictly a street car. I wont be slamming it into gear at 4000 rpms! I am pretty sure my 2004R wont live long that way. I drive aggressively but dont do burnouts, etc...I like the 2400 converter around town with my ZZ4, and I dont really know how the "driveability" will be affected with a higher stall converter. New at this!!!!
Thanks for any advice...
Thanks for any advice...
IMO It won't feel like your pulling a piano until you get well into the 3000's stall level.
BTW, if that's "Slightly Modified", I can't wait to see you "heavily modify" something
Last edited by RobbSalzmann; 10-28-2011 at 10:28 PM.
#20
Team Owner
I drove around 100,000 miles and 20 years with 700R4 and 9.5 inch 4 gear only manually switched 3500 or 3800 stall big buck TC's. I hate breaking down with inferior parts.