n100

Ok, I just did some research on my engine and have come to the hard truth. Here is what I have.

"TYU" block from 1975 van LS9 165 hp.
462624 heads (which I have read are ABSOLUTE garbage)
TORKER Intake
600cfm Holley spread bore carb with a vaccum secondary (6r 6910)
not sure of cam
th400 transmission
3.08 gears

If I could get to 350 hp I would be completely happy. Can someone recommend/teach me what needs to be done, and if it can be done.

Little Mouse

Its not hard to get to 350hp. But your not telling how much money you want to spend. better airflow with modern heads is the best way to start out. Vortec heads could get you there easy with you needing heads. Your 650 spreadbore has enough airflow no need for the expense of another carb. All kind of camshaft choices depending on money your willing to spend. A flat tappit can do what you want.

n100

Thanks for the quick relply! Ide like to try and keep it to about $1000 if possible. Should the heads be the first thing I get? Will they bolt right up? What about my intake? I can't really find much on a torker.

Little Mouse

Not much money to work with www.summitracing.com They have cam and lifter kits under there summit brand for not much money good enough to do the job. Vortec heads use a different intake manifold,valve covers. Your probably going to have to shop for some used parts to stay within $1000.00 and hope or find out if your shortblock is in good condition. Without looking them up around $800.00 could put you in some new iron heads.
Don't be tempted by the low priced chinese aluminum heads. Take a look at www.dartheads and www.racingheadservice.com. Your want something with a 170/180 runner size 64cc or less combustion chamber.

Tim H

Block is OK.
Heads? Well you could get them redone and shaved .010 and use a .020 thick head gasket.
Intake is garbage for the street and low end.
Get a summit stage 2 aluminum dual plane.
Cam: get something in the 220 @50 range and on a 110 lobe separation.
Just for fun on the trans, find the modulator on the passenger side of the trans and pull the rubber line off and get a small screw driver and turn the srcew in it clockwise 1 turn and it will shift later and give you some more RPMs to work with.
This is just my recommendation, im sure most on here will want you to spend $5000 for the same "seat of the pants feel"
But they are either rich or just book smart and don't live in the real world.

upcominZ

For under $1000, its a really tight budget. But, IMHO I wouldn't touch the stock engine. Seriously, its not worth the time or money. The best money spent is to get a 96-00' vortec off craigslist. If you can find good running one for $500 or less, then you can spend the rest on a good roller cam and intake for the vortec.

Why do this instead of investing in good heads only? 1 piece rear seal, hydro roller cam block, and good flowing vortec heads. I would tear it down and check over everything. I would do a stock rebuild kit and swap out the cam to and aftermarket cam in the .450 lift range. If you have the money, you could mod the valve guides for more lift and run a cam in the .550" lift range.

Actually this is my plan for my car. I was thinking of just getting used vortec heads, but for the price, I can get a good running engine with everything needed for around $500. Then I would swap the crank and stroke it to 383 and get a nice cam. Im sure a good stock bottom end can take what the vortec heads can flow. 400hp with over 400lbs of tq.

billla

You can probably slide in right around a grand for a set of unmodified Vortecs and a Performer dual-plane intake. If you can sneak a bit more from the cookie jar, you can fit in a cam swap as well.

The SDPC kits are pretty decent and come with just about everything.

http://sdparts.com/details/scoggin-d...nter/sd8060kit

Figure on another $200 or so for a cam and lifter kit and $80 for a double-roller timing chain.

With just the heads, you're probably in the 250 HP range. Add in the cam, maybe 275 or so...and with exhaust, probably in the 310-325 range. I think that's about as far as you're going to get on that budget.

n100

Yeah it kinda sucks being a broke college kid. Haha. Thanks alot for all the replies guys. I'll see if I can scrounge up another few hundred. Anyway, I've never really got actually inside an engine before so I'm pretty excited. Do I need to pull the engine to do this. Ide really like to avoid that if possible

billla

You can do the swap in the car...the cam swap will be the toughest but it can be done.

The skills required aren't extreme - you can absolutely do it. Getting some friendly help makes a big difference...you're in Seattle, so if you decide to do this drop me a PM or email and I'll come help you through it - done a bunch of these. It's a full day work for the heads...a REALLY full day with the cam.

I'll bring the tools and know-how - you do the work and proivide the beer

tfi racing

This your best bang for the buck,,it would be foolish NOT to take advantage of this offer!

71scgc

What an offer!!
I'd be ALL over that.
It'd be worth the airfare out here to me...

scottyp99

Billla seems to know what he's talking about, this deal would be worth it even if he drank a whole keg! You lucky b*stard!!!


Scott

billla

Geez, guys - it's just a top

Offer stands for anyone in Seattle; always glad to lend a wrench!

...for good beer

johnt365

Yeah that intake is probably doing you no favors.

Here is my take. I was in a very similar situation, stock motor but with headers. The motor made 178 rear wheel hp and was a bit of a slug. I changed out the heads, cam, intake and rockers and got to 270 rwhp with a th400 and 3.08. This motor makes nice power but there were two things that were holding it up. Primarily was the rear end gearing and second was the need for a new cam matched torque converter. I did the coverter first and it was better but still only fun from 2500-4500.

The rear gear change from 3.08 to 3.55 transformed the car. Its hard to think gears first but you might consider it. I was able to find a used rear end for $200 and get it in service for another $100.

My guess is the 3.08's will squelch the fun even at 350hp and a rear end swap might get the tires spinning enough for you.

n100

WOW Billla! Thanks alot for the offer!!! I think ill have to take you up on that once I acquire all my stuff.

So i guess ill go with vortecs then and start looking for an intake. What about junkyard vortec heads? What should I be looking for/ what types of castings should I avoid?

billla

Drop me a PM or email any time.

I'm not a big fan of junkyard Vortecs - by the time you get them in shape, you've spent about what a new set costs.

upcominZ

What about the benefits of having a roller block and not having to use a retrofit kit for the lifters? One piece seal? Like I said, best case scenario is if he can find a running vortec engine for $500 or less and just do a cam swap for the meantime. I know I have bought running engines from wrecked trucks for cheap.

billla

I agree with starting from late-model roller-cam blocks for new builds...but that's not what the OP is asking for.

RobbSalzmann

If you're planning a budget of $1000, figure you'll spend nearly $2000 when all is said and done.

American Raven

Do yourself a favor: Buy a turn-key crate engine. No surprises (like throwing a rod 50 miles after your cam swap) and a warrenty.

A little more money than you've stated, but it's the best bargain.

I know this from painful, bitter, past experience.

http://www.gmpartsdepot.com/zz4crate_engine.html