iokepakai

Bell housing should come off after the six bolts are removed.The dowel pins are a tight fit.Use caution to pry the housing off the pins,it should release with a little nudging.
When installing your trans it may not slide all the way into the pilot bushing due to a slight misalignment,even with the alignment tool.Do not be tempted to use the trans bolts to force it that last 1/2 inch or so.Have the clutch linkage all connected,press the clutch while you slide the trans into the pilot bearing,it should go flush to the bell housing.If the trans slides all the way in on the first try,good going!

jcloving

Day 5: I jiggled and pried the bellhousing and it came loose. There are two bolts each side and two on top. I had them all out yesterday but it was still tight. I got it though. Pulled the pressure plate, clutch disc and flywheel today. The flywheel is off to the machine shop.

The pressure plate. Note the shiny fingers.


Inside the bellhousing. Lots of oily crud and dirt. The throwout bearing spins but has play. Note the shiny oil at the bottom:


Pressue plate and disc. This is the pressure plate side:


Flywheel side of disc. Almost worn to rivets.


Flywheel:


Back of motor.


Just got back from machine shop. The flywheel looks brand new. I really need to get that rear main fixed now.

John

Aflac

I'm not sure that it's a good idea to touch the rear main seal without doing the bearings. At least that's how I was taught.

Shark Racer

Gonna clean the heck out of everything before you put it back on?

Definitely sounds like a good idea to, and do the RMS before firing up again.

jcloving

Yes, I'll clean everything before it goes back together. I need a good pilot bearing puller now. The one I had from Harbor Freight is too big. It wont fit thru the ID of the bearing. Can someone recommend a good pilot bearing puller?

Shark Racer

When I did the clutch on my Ford 460, I rented a slide hammer and internal claw type deal. Took 15-20 solid blows but got it out. Rented it from my local O'Reilly's. Any local parts hound should have something that works. Bring the new pilot bearing with you to verify.

Alternatively, I've heard if you can find a dowel that just fits, you can pack the old bearing with grease and tap the dowel onto the grease. It will push the grease behind the bearing and as the dowel goes in further drive the bearing out.

iokepakai

Search remove pilot bearing or bushing some great tips on how to remove it.One method was wet paper and a dowel,less mess no grease flying everywhere.Check new bushing with a magnet,it should not be attracted to it.If it does it is no good and should not be used.Put new pilot bushing in freezer overnight,goes in easier.
Thought I had a rear main leak,turned out to be the oil pan,which wasn't seated corrected at the rear and an oil pressure sender,not to mention the intake was seeping oil also.Here's a pic of the speed direct clutch linkage.Very easy to do adjustments...Looks like you got to the clutch just in time.Good luck with your project.....
[IMG][/IMG]
Pilot Bushing
[IMG][/IMG]
Kevlar composite clutch and billet flywheel
[IMG][/IMG]

jcloving

Day 6: I am cleaning and refurbishing everything. I pulled the pilot gushing with a 5/8 bolt. It worked well. I filed six grooves on the diameter and also chamfered the lead in threads.



I will use a replacement bushing not a bearing.

jackson

gasket 1880 is a race gasket
most 1pc pan gaskets for 2pc rms need longer pan bolts
afaik, 1880 don't come w/ any pan bolts
chances are real good most vettes never need race pan gasket

felpro OS34510T is Not a race gasket but is 1pc silicone w/ built-in limiters and comes with All new longer pan bolts and a handful of "snapups" that make it easier to put pan on motor in car. Fits 75 thru 85 both R&L sticks. Costs Less too$ ... about 3/4 race.

ensure pan's flanges are absolutely clean, flat, straight & square w/ no dimples ... wire wheel ... wood block w/ small hammer.

WIX filters made not so far from W-S NC ... probably better than fram.
fram PH30 Xover to WIX 51069

Shark Racer

FRAM filters are utter junk and I'll never use one again.

jcloving

Thanks Shark Racer. What type of filter do you recommend?

Shark Racer

I alternate between AC Delco, Mobil 1, and K&N given what's around. I've used Wix with good results in a pinch.

I had a FRAM on my 87, and it was causing the oil pressure to get dangerously low, ~10psi at idle. Switching to a Delco filter brought that up to 25.

DO2G

I'm working on the same project.....Does the starter need to be removed in order to remove the bellhousing?

jcloving

DO2G,

No, but I did anyway.

jcloving

Some new photos of the refurbished parts. Please excuse the ratty valve cover. It is on my list. The pilot bushing is there too.







I will gently remove some of the paint on the shifter plates. That was a very tight assembly when I pulled it apart. I decided to paint the bellhousing to brighten it up.



This is my setup to remove the rust from the driveshaft and clutch fork. Evaporust starts clear and then goes to tea and then cola color as it works.

mikep3

JC, Where did you get that AC Compressor and hose? Looks like a good up grade and my old R4 tanked, so I am looking to go R134A freon.

Shark Racer

Beautiful work, JC. Can you come do my car next?

iokepakai

Lookin Good! That's pretty slick on the pilot bushing removal,most impressive....May all go smooth on the reinstall.....

gcusmano74

Put a better oil filter than that Fram. Wix, Ac Delco, K&N. Just something else. Put in a bit longer one while you're at it, from a pickup of that same year.. Equal to the old AC 35.

jcloving

Thanks for the advice on the oil filter. Will do.

The AC hoses came from AC Auto here in Winston, 336-768-8206. I think they farmed it out to a local shop. When I switched to the new parallel flow condenser I had to have custom hoses.