Bee Jay's light weight master cylinder brake mod
01-11-2012, 09:18 AM
#41
The short answer is no.
The longer answer is you can swap out the booster with a later, shallow well type pushrod.
01-11-2012, 09:42 AM
#42
Drifting
If I had to do that I might as well just buy the aftermarket Alum MC since there is no savings if I have to replace the booster to get the "cheaper" new Alum MC.
01-11-2012, 11:07 AM
#43
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When I installed the C5 master cylinder on my '69, I had the same pushrod length issue. I just cut the rod to the needed length, tapped the internals so I could re-install the adjuster tip, and bolted it together. A little time and effort, but no cash outlay.
01-11-2012, 11:22 AM
#44
Race Director
The old and new cast iron masters are interchangeable, the only difference is the length of the pushrod.
C3s were one of few cars that had the front brakes actuated by the secondary master piston. Most have the fronts actuated by the primary or rear piston.
Two things are different. The primary piston operates slightly before the secondary which means in an oem C3's system the rears have pressure slightly before the fronts. Secondly, the front brakes, no matter which type of master is used always has the larger reservoir. (Didn't make a difference in operation in the one I put in, but I switched the lines too.)
The C5 master works well, but the price is really silly.
C3s were one of few cars that had the front brakes actuated by the secondary master piston. Most have the fronts actuated by the primary or rear piston.
Two things are different. The primary piston operates slightly before the secondary which means in an oem C3's system the rears have pressure slightly before the fronts. Secondly, the front brakes, no matter which type of master is used always has the larger reservoir. (Didn't make a difference in operation in the one I put in, but I switched the lines too.)
The C5 master works well, but the price is really silly.
01-11-2012, 11:55 AM
#45
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The old and new cast iron masters are interchangeable, the only difference is the length of the pushrod.
C3s were one of few cars that had the front brakes actuated by the secondary master piston. Most have the fronts actuated by the primary or rear piston.
Two things are different. The primary piston operates slightly before the secondary which means in an oem C3's system the rears have pressure slightly before the fronts. Secondly, the front brakes, no matter which type of master is used always has the larger reservoir. (Didn't make a difference in operation in the one I put in, but I switched the lines too.)
The C5 master works well, but the price is really silly.
C3s were one of few cars that had the front brakes actuated by the secondary master piston. Most have the fronts actuated by the primary or rear piston.
Two things are different. The primary piston operates slightly before the secondary which means in an oem C3's system the rears have pressure slightly before the fronts. Secondly, the front brakes, no matter which type of master is used always has the larger reservoir. (Didn't make a difference in operation in the one I put in, but I switched the lines too.)
The C5 master works well, but the price is really silly.
01-11-2012, 12:31 PM
#47
Burning Brakes
I paid $35 bucks for mine out of a low mileage C5.
Yes, more info on this please
BTW: $89.94 for the C5 cylinder
http://www.partsgeek.com/mmparts/mas.../corvette.html
Yes, more info on this please
BTW: $89.94 for the C5 cylinder
http://www.partsgeek.com/mmparts/mas.../corvette.html
Last edited by C3Paul; 01-11-2012 at 02:31 PM.
01-11-2012, 02:51 PM
#48
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Long story, so grab some caffeine.
Some guys I know have had luck getting the right fitting nut or adapter at their local parts store (only one "special thread pitch" nut is required, the other is a common size on metric hard lines), but I struck out at every parts store and brake shop I stopped at when I used to live in Orlando. (In hindsight I should have scoped out a couple junk yards for similar fittings on GM cars, and perhaps bought just the fittings or lines.) I'm hoping your local parts stores are better equipped. So, default move was to recontact the seller from whom I bought the master cylinder. I bought the C5 lines from him (20 or 25 bucks, I don't remember) and planned to just use them on the '69 (after shortening and rebending if necessary). I got the lines (and they're sweet looking, with flexible portions), but they wouldn't package as clean as I'd like, so I just bought a couple inexpensive close length metric hard lines at NAPA. I cut one end off of the first metric line, slid the appropriate SAE thread nut on it, and reflared it with the double flare used at the junction block. One line down, one to go. I similarly cut one end off the other line, removed the remaining metric nut, and replaced that nut with the "special thread" metric nut I removed from one of the C5 lines. I added the second SAE nut onto that line, and then double flared the cut end. Then it was just a matter of tweaking the bends to get everything to fit and clear obstructions.
The actual time it took to do the cutting and flaring was minimal compared to how much time I wasted stopping at the parts stores. As I mentioned earlier, hopefully your local parts store is better stocked with metric brake parts.
Some guys I know have had luck getting the right fitting nut or adapter at their local parts store (only one "special thread pitch" nut is required, the other is a common size on metric hard lines), but I struck out at every parts store and brake shop I stopped at when I used to live in Orlando. (In hindsight I should have scoped out a couple junk yards for similar fittings on GM cars, and perhaps bought just the fittings or lines.) I'm hoping your local parts stores are better equipped. So, default move was to recontact the seller from whom I bought the master cylinder. I bought the C5 lines from him (20 or 25 bucks, I don't remember) and planned to just use them on the '69 (after shortening and rebending if necessary). I got the lines (and they're sweet looking, with flexible portions), but they wouldn't package as clean as I'd like, so I just bought a couple inexpensive close length metric hard lines at NAPA. I cut one end off of the first metric line, slid the appropriate SAE thread nut on it, and reflared it with the double flare used at the junction block. One line down, one to go. I similarly cut one end off the other line, removed the remaining metric nut, and replaced that nut with the "special thread" metric nut I removed from one of the C5 lines. I added the second SAE nut onto that line, and then double flared the cut end. Then it was just a matter of tweaking the bends to get everything to fit and clear obstructions.
The actual time it took to do the cutting and flaring was minimal compared to how much time I wasted stopping at the parts stores. As I mentioned earlier, hopefully your local parts store is better stocked with metric brake parts.
01-11-2012, 03:21 PM
#49
01-11-2012, 05:02 PM
#50
Burning Brakes
Long story, so grab some caffeine.
Some guys I know have had luck getting the right fitting nut or adapter at their local parts store (only one "special thread pitch" nut is required, the other is a common size on metric hard lines), but I struck out at every parts store and brake shop I stopped at when I used to live in Orlando. (In hindsight I should have scoped out a couple junk yards for similar fittings on GM cars, and perhaps bought just the fittings or lines.) I'm hoping your local parts stores are better equipped. So, default move was to recontact the seller from whom I bought the master cylinder. I bought the C5 lines from him (20 or 25 bucks, I don't remember) and planned to just use them on the '69 (after shortening and rebending if necessary). I got the lines (and they're sweet looking, with flexible portions), but they wouldn't package as clean as I'd like, so I just bought a couple inexpensive close length metric hard lines at NAPA. I cut one end off of the first metric line, slid the appropriate SAE thread nut on it, and reflared it with the double flare used at the junction block. One line down, one to go. I similarly cut one end off the other line, removed the remaining metric nut, and replaced that nut with the "special thread" metric nut I removed from one of the C5 lines. I added the second SAE nut onto that line, and then double flared the cut end. Then it was just a matter of tweaking the bends to get everything to fit and clear obstructions.
The actual time it took to do the cutting and flaring was minimal compared to how much time I wasted stopping at the parts stores. As I mentioned earlier, hopefully your local parts store is better stocked with metric brake parts.
Some guys I know have had luck getting the right fitting nut or adapter at their local parts store (only one "special thread pitch" nut is required, the other is a common size on metric hard lines), but I struck out at every parts store and brake shop I stopped at when I used to live in Orlando. (In hindsight I should have scoped out a couple junk yards for similar fittings on GM cars, and perhaps bought just the fittings or lines.) I'm hoping your local parts stores are better equipped. So, default move was to recontact the seller from whom I bought the master cylinder. I bought the C5 lines from him (20 or 25 bucks, I don't remember) and planned to just use them on the '69 (after shortening and rebending if necessary). I got the lines (and they're sweet looking, with flexible portions), but they wouldn't package as clean as I'd like, so I just bought a couple inexpensive close length metric hard lines at NAPA. I cut one end off of the first metric line, slid the appropriate SAE thread nut on it, and reflared it with the double flare used at the junction block. One line down, one to go. I similarly cut one end off the other line, removed the remaining metric nut, and replaced that nut with the "special thread" metric nut I removed from one of the C5 lines. I added the second SAE nut onto that line, and then double flared the cut end. Then it was just a matter of tweaking the bends to get everything to fit and clear obstructions.
The actual time it took to do the cutting and flaring was minimal compared to how much time I wasted stopping at the parts stores. As I mentioned earlier, hopefully your local parts store is better stocked with metric brake parts.
Do we need to switch the lines as well?
Last edited by C3Paul; 01-11-2012 at 05:06 PM.
01-11-2012, 05:13 PM
#52
Le Mans Master
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...r-in-c3-2.html
01-11-2012, 05:18 PM
#53
Drifting
01-11-2012, 11:09 PM
#55
Burning Brakes
I was able to find some fittings to get the C5 master in with 3/16" lines. Got them at a local hydraulic line shop.
If you are going to have to make a new front line anyway, making another rear one with these fittings isnt much harder
If I recall correctly the sizes are 12x1mm and 12x1.5mm bubble flare
If you are going to have to make a new front line anyway, making another rear one with these fittings isnt much harder
If I recall correctly the sizes are 12x1mm and 12x1.5mm bubble flare
01-13-2012, 01:15 AM
#57
Safety Car
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NAPA doesn't make brake lines anymore, but they sell lines. So I bought this 6" line and adapter to extend the original line. The MC is in. Tomorrow I bleed and maybe drive on Saturday.
Bee Jay
Bee Jay
01-13-2012, 05:01 PM
#58
Drifting
Downside up!
Bee Jay,
You could have turned the short line around so that we don't have to stand on our heads or hold the computer upside down to read the part number.
Thanks, anyway.
Regards from Down Under.
aussiejohn
You could have turned the short line around so that we don't have to stand on our heads or hold the computer upside down to read the part number.
Thanks, anyway.
Regards from Down Under.
aussiejohn
01-13-2012, 05:16 PM
#59
Le Mans Master
01-13-2012, 08:20 PM
#60
Safety Car
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The part # is NAPA 813-5473. It is a 8" long brake line with 1/4" standard flare ends. I used a 1/4" to 1/4" female/female adapter to extend the original brake line. It is Polymer Coated and you don't need a tubing bender to bend it.
I got home today and was going to drive the car from the garage to the lift, but I had no brakes, zero. So I'm going to have to bleed in the garage. I've tried both vacuum bleeding and pressure bleeding in the past, but nothing works as good as my wife sitting in the drivers seat pumping the brakes while I bleed. She is with the grand kids tonight, so I'll have to bleed tomorrow.
I got home today and was going to drive the car from the garage to the lift, but I had no brakes, zero. So I'm going to have to bleed in the garage. I've tried both vacuum bleeding and pressure bleeding in the past, but nothing works as good as my wife sitting in the drivers seat pumping the brakes while I bleed. She is with the grand kids tonight, so I'll have to bleed tomorrow.