Markhudson

Hello All, I am From Louisiana and I have just purchased my 1st Corvette a 1982 C-3 and Im having a problem and was wondering if anyone could help me figure out what the Problem could be. I found out the Brake Lights dont work, So i checked the Fuse and it was Blown. So I replaced the fuse and it Popped when i plugged it in. I Put a Multimeter across the two legs where the spades of the Fuse would go and it has constant 12.4 VDC on it and Im not sure if there should be voltage on this at all times or what. Usually if a fuse Blows then its a Hot to Ground Short...But how would I find out if this is happening? I have no Schematic that will tell me where the wires should go or anything and even if i did i dont know if this would help. Im not an electrician or Electrical technician so im limited on what I know how to check for or what i should be checking for. Any help would be Greatly Appreciated.

MelWff

I would start by removing the tail lenses and check the sockets and bulbs.

Markhudson

Ok I will do that, By the way I had my dad stand back at the rear of the car as i plugged a fuse in and as usual the fuse popped as soon as i plugged it in. But he said the brake lights came on for just an instant. I dont know but I would think it shouldnt come on if i dont have the break pedal pushed so it tells me there is power going to the brake lights all the time which i know shouldnt be happening and then theres the fuse popping thing also

85camarocrazee

could be a short in one of the bulbs-I would check them first....Then the brake switch mounted on the upper prtion of the brake pedal.

Peterbuilt

Here's a schematic
http://www.nrjvette.com/johdotukset/...tte%201982.pdf

You should NOT have power on both sides where the fuse plugs in, a blown fuse opens the circuit.

Markhudson

Thanks for you guys help, I click on that link and it doesnt come up...it says it cant find the webpage.

So it isnt supposed to be any power across the two terminals where the fuse plugs in? I thought that may be an issue and the reason its popping fuses, what do you think could cause it to stay powered up?

I went through all the wiring from the Tailights to the fuse box and all the wiring is good no burns cuts or flattened wires. I unhooked both Brake switchs that are hooked to the pedal and made sure they go in and spring back out when released and i also left them out and tried putting a fuse in with them disconnected and it still pops the fuse so Im thinking its not the Switch's themselves that are bad. I ohmd the prongs on the brake switch and got continuity in one position and it changes state when you push the rod in and just the opposite on the other connectors on the second set of prongs on the switch. So i think that says the switch is good. So Now i gotta try and figure out why there is power across the fuse...It doesnt make sense.

Markhudson

I appreciate it but that Link wont work, I think that website is closed.

Markhudson

I guess I posted wrong somehow so im trying on the Quick reply.

I checked all the wiring from the lights to the fuseblock and all looks good and i checked all the bulbs and they look good. I also checked the two Brake switchs on the pedal and they work properly i even unhooked them and tried putting a fuse in with them unhooked and it still pops the fuse. Any Ideas where to check next? thanks for you guys help on this

Peterbuilt

The link works now.

Do you have cruise control?

Markhudson

Ok thanks, Yes It has cruise control on it. I believe one of the switchs on it that has a vacuum hose coming off it is for that if im correct from what i have read on the forums today. I tried Putting a fuse in after disconnecting both of them and it still pops the fuse

Peterbuilt

That link works sometimes and not other times so now you have the schematic which is also in the 82 service manual.

In the fuse box the LEFT side brings 12 volts to the fuse, power goes through the fuse and powers up that circuit.
With the brake light fuse removed you say that you have 12 volts on the right side of the clip.
Connect a test light to the right side and pull one of the other fuses one at a time.
When the test light goes out check that circuit for your problem.

Markhudson

Ok that will be my next check thanks i appreciate your time on this

Markhudson

Ok I unhooked the Harness from the steering column and the fuse didnt pop then. So i hooked the harness back together and it still didnt pop and i have Brake lights now...The wires arent cut or anything so i dont know what that did to fix it but im glad they are working for now! Thanks for all the help guys!

drwet

I hate it when I solve a problem without knowing what I have done. It means the problem can return at any time and I will still have no idea how to fix it.

I suspect you have (or had) a short to ground somewhere between the fuse and the brakelight. That would explain why you had voltage across the fuse without the brake pedal depressed, and why you would blow fuses every time you installed them, if I am interpreting your description correctly.

Markhudson

Yeah I agree, Your glad on one hand that you "Fixed" It but unhappy you dont know what the problem was in the first place lol. I think it must be a wire in the Steering Column that is grounding out. If it does it again i will tear the column down and see if i can find it.

Mashman

My guess would be that you jostled the wire with the short and it is no longer grounded, and therefore your short is gone.

Something you might want to look at is the hood release cable. This was a problem I had with my 72. The hood release cable is down by the fusebox, and a main part of the harness was touching it. Over the many years slight movement of that harness against the hood release cable rubbed off the insulation on one of the wires. It eventually caused a short. It caused a bit of frying, and melted the hood release cable - luckily I didn't need to replace the harness.

I doubt your problem had anything to do with the steering column wiring. I would get down and check all the wiring that may have moved when you were down there, and I'm willing to bet you will eventually find one that is missing some insulation.

Markhudson

Yes, It has something to do with the Horn...I went to re-attach the Horn cover and right when i touch the horn cover to the steering wheel it pops the fuse again. So its something to do with that little Prong that sticks out with the spring under it. I figure when that prong is pushed in (By the Horn cover) it makes ground and makes the horn blow if this is right it must be grounded to a hot wire somewhere i guess. Thanks guys

hugie82

Hi mark, glad to see another 82 CFI on here. The easiest way to fix the horn is buy the rebuild kit and I noticed you said you checked the brak switch. The on position is when it's out. Not pushed in. In is off

Peterbuilt

Hi Mark,
Seems like you did a good job of trouble shooting. You may have a chafed wire in the column or the turn signal switch is bad.
The turn signals, hazards and brake lights all use the same filament in the same bulb and they all use the same green and yellow wires to get to the rear of the car from the turn signal switch.
When you step on the brake power goes up the white wire and comes down the green and yellow.
For the turn signals power goes up the column on the purple and comes down the green and yellow.
For the hazards the power goes up the column on the brown and comes down on the green and yellow.
Any of these wires may have chafed and caused your problem, and when you moved the wires at the harmonica connection you moved the bad wire.
Jim Shea is the authority on steering column and you may want to contact him for some conclusive tests before you go through all the trouble of changing the turn signal switch.
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/

Markhudson

I appreciate the info and will contact him on this. Thanks Guys for your help