Fixing those stripped out headlight cover screws
#2
Le Mans Master
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Thx, i needed to hear that.
Man this is funny. I found nearly every screw on my headlight covers had big azz sheet metal screws forced in there by Bubba. I now have SS replacements from ZIP or Ecklers sitting on the bench waiting on the to do list.
I'm waiting for replies here too.
cardo0
I'm waiting for replies here too.
cardo0
#5
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There's always helicoils. At least then it's strong and still will be the right size
Mooser
Mooser
#6
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Hi,
Along the line of hel-i-coils.
Is there any chance the threaded 'inserts' that are sold to repair stripped trim screws that mount the lock pillar trim to the interior trim panel could be used here?
I believe the screws are pretty close in size.
Regards,
Alan
Along the line of hel-i-coils.
Is there any chance the threaded 'inserts' that are sold to repair stripped trim screws that mount the lock pillar trim to the interior trim panel could be used here?
I believe the screws are pretty close in size.
Regards,
Alan
#8
Team Owner
The problem with Heli-coils and inserts in there is that there is no depth to that hole for a drill or tap. Heli-coil does make a special "bottoming" tap, but buying that for 4 holes makes it pretty expensive.
What happened with the JBWeld fix? I've used that approach on 1 (or 2) of those holes with no problem. You have to drill out some material so that you can fill enough epoxy in there to support the screw. But, sticking some putty-stick epoxy in there, letting it harden completely (about a day or two), then drilling the correct size hole, and installing self-tapping screws [bottom cutting screws; not the type used for metal studs] worked for me. You just have to push hard as you install the self-tapping screws so they cut good threads. Also, you can't put much more than 'snug' torque on them, or you will tear out the threads.
What happened with the JBWeld fix? I've used that approach on 1 (or 2) of those holes with no problem. You have to drill out some material so that you can fill enough epoxy in there to support the screw. But, sticking some putty-stick epoxy in there, letting it harden completely (about a day or two), then drilling the correct size hole, and installing self-tapping screws [bottom cutting screws; not the type used for metal studs] worked for me. You just have to push hard as you install the self-tapping screws so they cut good threads. Also, you can't put much more than 'snug' torque on them, or you will tear out the threads.
#9
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Forgetting about helicoils (they are expensive to buy if you have no need for them, although there are now some no-name type brands available on fleabay) I prefer the helicoils since I know what I'm getting.
If the holes had any form of thread left what so ever (to give the glue something to grip), permatex makes a thread hole repair that is basically an epoxy type mixture with a release agent. You coat the screw with the release and then fill the hole with the epoxy, wait for it to dry and unscrew the bolt. it will hold stuff snug.
I used it to repair the seat adjustment ball on one of my seats a few years ago and was fairly surprised at how well it worked.
Mooser
If the holes had any form of thread left what so ever (to give the glue something to grip), permatex makes a thread hole repair that is basically an epoxy type mixture with a release agent. You coat the screw with the release and then fill the hole with the epoxy, wait for it to dry and unscrew the bolt. it will hold stuff snug.
I used it to repair the seat adjustment ball on one of my seats a few years ago and was fairly surprised at how well it worked.
Mooser
#10
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Hi B 68,
The repir inserts are usually shown on the same page as the interior trim panels in the vendor's catalogues.
But, I think Mooser's solution sounds more straight forward.
Those screws don't need all that much 'holding' power.
Regards,
Alan
The repir inserts are usually shown on the same page as the interior trim panels in the vendor's catalogues.
But, I think Mooser's solution sounds more straight forward.
Those screws don't need all that much 'holding' power.
Regards,
Alan
#11
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Forgetting about helicoils (they are expensive to buy if you have no need for them, although there are now some no-name type brands available on fleabay) I prefer the helicoils since I know what I'm getting.
If the holes had any form of thread left what so ever (to give the glue something to grip), permatex makes a thread hole repair that is basically an epoxy type mixture with a release agent. You coat the screw with the release and then fill the hole with the epoxy, wait for it to dry and unscrew the bolt. it will hold stuff snug.
I used it to repair the seat adjustment ball on one of my seats a few years ago and was fairly surprised at how well it worked.
Mooser
If the holes had any form of thread left what so ever (to give the glue something to grip), permatex makes a thread hole repair that is basically an epoxy type mixture with a release agent. You coat the screw with the release and then fill the hole with the epoxy, wait for it to dry and unscrew the bolt. it will hold stuff snug.
I used it to repair the seat adjustment ball on one of my seats a few years ago and was fairly surprised at how well it worked.
Mooser
#13
Drifting
This Permatex product sounds familiar. I have used JB Weld on threads successfully, but by using carnuba wax on the threads as a release agent. Neutral paste shoe polish usually has carnuba wax and is effective as a release agent. This is commonly used by gunsmiths when bedding barreled actions to a rifle stock.You only need a thin coat of wax on the threads to release it after the epoxy cures. A Q-tip works well to rub the wax into the threads and remove excess. I have a screw broken off in the top cover I haven't figured out how to remove.
#14
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Ordered the Permatex Thread repair kit (Couldn't find on local) and tried it out. So far, I'm impressed. Removed the screws and will leave it overnight to dry.
#15
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Glad to hear
Keep in mind it's not as strong as metal so go easy snugging up the screws. (plus they are pretty fine so there's not a lot of thread there)
Keep in mind it's not as strong as metal so go easy snugging up the screws. (plus they are pretty fine so there's not a lot of thread there)