Camivette

78 Have the calipers off. Drilled out the rivet heads. Rotor doesn't budge. Is there a secret to getting the rotors off? Do I need to remove the hub and rotor or can I get the rotor off with muscle and wd40? Thanks

7T1vette

You might want to pry off the dust cap, remove the cotter pin and castle nut, then pull the rotor (along with outer bearing race and washer).

LongIsland C3

Went through the EXACT scenario today. As mentioned above, I removed the dust cap, pulled the cotter pin, removed the castle nut and pulled the whole assembly. (good time to replace and re-pack the wheel bearings)
Drilled out the rivets, took a small piece of 2 x 4 to the hub and gave it a couple of whacks. This is also a good time to replace the wheel studs, it's a cheap and easy preventative maintenance measure.

Camivette

Got it A little larger drill and oil loosened it up well enough to work off. Of course the brake line doesn't want to budge......

scottyp99

Hit it with the blue wrench! (torch) Heat works wonders with stuck brake lines, don't use it on fuel lines, though........KA-BOOM!!!!!!


Keep the shiny side up!
Scott

Street Rat

Drilling those rivets is a PITA!

TimAT

Drill the heads and then use a pin punch to drive the rest of the rivet out.

lvmyvt76

Make sure you pack the bearings correctly or else you will run a spindle, maybe loose a wheel, or something worse. You need to know how to set the wheel nut also.

Easy Mike

The secret is not to remove them. Do you need to remove them? Rotors seldom need to be replaced and you can rebuild the brakes without replacing them.

If you do remove them, index them first. For run out purposes, they have to be installed in exactly the same position if you intend to reuse them.

Mike Ward

I'll never understand the burning desire to change rotors on these cars.

mk's78

4 Mike Ward....

Would love to know your reasoning regarding your comment....?????

another Mike....aka mk's78

johnmb

+1000!

A BIG punch...

Mike Ward

Rotors on C2/C3 Corvettes are not low cost mileage limited routine throw-aways like on modern cars. Time has proven that the original rotors last well over 100,000 miles with replacement or 'turning' needed. They were NEVER designed to be separated from the hubs in the field and casually replaced with new ones. GM only sold completer hub/spindle and rotor assemblies.

Changing them 'just cause' as many owners do brings all sorts of drawbacks as Easy Mike mentions.

TimAT

And in addition, if you have the rotors turned by someone that is not aware of the fixed caliper design, they can inadvertently cause you problems. If the rotors have to be turned, you need to remove the same amount on BOTH sides of the rotor. Otherwise, the rotor is not centered in the pads.

snwbrdjunky93

ran into trouble with the rivets as well and i already picked up new rotors so i am just going to drill the rivets out what size drilll bit do I need?

lionelhutz

Fronts aren't that hard to replace though. Bolt the rotor to the hub, chuck it up in a brake lathe and cut it until it's true.

The rears which have to be shimmed or machined on the car are the pain to replace.

LT-1 kid

if you dont remove the rotors, how would you have them faced, these cars are 40 plus years old and need refacing, I do agree the original rotors are of very good quality.

gkull

I never drove like a little old lady. I usually got 2-3 pads before the rotor were worn too thin. Carbon metalic and hawk pads eat rotors. I have stacks of stock type rotors that just need a resurface. Run out is always needed. I have done lots of vettes brakes over the years and i just use an air cutter wheel to grind the heads rivets off. Then a big punch

Ironcross

there you go, then just drop the rotor and the rotor will just fall off the hub.......i

lionelhutz

You just put the hub and rotor on the brake lathe as an assembly.