Replacing bushings on '74. What else should be replaced or checked while apart?
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Replacing bushings on '74. What else should be replaced or checked while apart?
I'm having the bushings replaced on my '74 Auto Corvette. Doing the front bushings first and the rears at a later date. I was going to do the job myself but with only a carport to work in and basic hand tools I decided to have it done by someone else. I found a guy through a local Corvette club who will replace the front bushings and also do some minor clean-up/detailing for about $250. I think that's a great price.
My question is what other things should I have checked, replaced, done while he has the front end apart to replace the bushings?
The car is completely stock. Engine was rebuilt about 3 years ago and the shocks were replaced on all four corners about 5 years ago. I also decided to go with rubber bushings.
Any help or info will be much appreciated! Thanks!
My question is what other things should I have checked, replaced, done while he has the front end apart to replace the bushings?
The car is completely stock. Engine was rebuilt about 3 years ago and the shocks were replaced on all four corners about 5 years ago. I also decided to go with rubber bushings.
Any help or info will be much appreciated! Thanks!
#2
Le Mans Master
How old are the shocks? Ball joints? Tie rod ends? Idler arm? I'd check all those before tearing everything apart. Once it's all apart, it's nothing to clean and paint/powdercoat the springs, control arms, and shafts.
I'd also say the price is pretty good- remember you should get an alignment after.
I'd also say the price is pretty good- remember you should get an alignment after.
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
How old are the shocks? Ball joints? Tie rod ends? Idler arm? I'd check all those before tearing everything apart. Once it's all apart, it's nothing to clean and paint/powdercoat the springs, control arms, and shafts.
I'd also say the price is pretty good- remember you should get an alignment after.
I'd also say the price is pretty good- remember you should get an alignment after.
The shocks were replaced about 5 years ago and do not have many miles on them.
I will check the ball joints, tie rod ends and idler arm as well.
What about the brake lines in the wheel wells would that be good to do with the suspension out?
#4
Le Mans Master
My bad! I was thinking suspension. YES- I'd replace the flexible brake lines with some good quality stainless steel braided lines, and carefully look at ALL the brake lines. The steel lines are pretty tough and resistant, but they should be looked at.
Look at the calipers too- any sign of leaking should be dealt with. Since the front is going to be apart, cleaning, inspecting and repacking the wheel bearings should be part of it too.
Look at the calipers too- any sign of leaking should be dealt with. Since the front is going to be apart, cleaning, inspecting and repacking the wheel bearings should be part of it too.
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
My bad! I was thinking suspension. YES- I'd replace the flexible brake lines with some good quality stainless steel braided lines, and carefully look at ALL the brake lines. The steel lines are pretty tough and resistant, but they should be looked at.
Look at the calipers too- any sign of leaking should be dealt with. Since the front is going to be apart, cleaning, inspecting and repacking the wheel bearings should be part of it too.
Look at the calipers too- any sign of leaking should be dealt with. Since the front is going to be apart, cleaning, inspecting and repacking the wheel bearings should be part of it too.
Thanks TimAT!
#6
Careful, bro. It's easy to get carried away.
But seriously, an experienced and knowledgeable pair of eyes is invaluable.
Suspension bushings that are not centered in place are probably suspect. If anything is moving or scraping, metal to metal, you will see rust marks at the parting line. And the only thing on the car that should leak is the condensate water from the AC, when it's been running on a humid day.
But seriously, an experienced and knowledgeable pair of eyes is invaluable.
Suspension bushings that are not centered in place are probably suspect. If anything is moving or scraping, metal to metal, you will see rust marks at the parting line. And the only thing on the car that should leak is the condensate water from the AC, when it's been running on a humid day.
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
Careful, bro. It's easy to get carried away.
But seriously, an experienced and knowledgeable pair of eyes is invaluable.
Suspension bushings that are not centered in place are probably suspect. If anything is moving or scraping, metal to metal, you will see rust marks at the parting line. And the only thing on the car that should leak is the condensate water from the AC, when it's been running on a humid day.
But seriously, an experienced and knowledgeable pair of eyes is invaluable.
Suspension bushings that are not centered in place are probably suspect. If anything is moving or scraping, metal to metal, you will see rust marks at the parting line. And the only thing on the car that should leak is the condensate water from the AC, when it's been running on a humid day.
I know what you mean about getting carried away. A few years ago what started as an engine bay clean-up turned into an engine rebuild!
#8
Team Owner
It is easy to get carried away.
While working on my 74 replacing the Original 1974 shocks in 2012, we went wild and replaced the entire suspension. Wow what a difference! It cost a bit more than I expected in time and $ but it has been Well worth the time and blood .
All in all it the total investment in parts and labor has been about $800.
While working on my 74 replacing the Original 1974 shocks in 2012, we went wild and replaced the entire suspension. Wow what a difference! It cost a bit more than I expected in time and $ but it has been Well worth the time and blood .
All in all it the total investment in parts and labor has been about $800.
#9
Racer
I am not sure what condition your radiator is in, but with the control arms off it would be an ideal time to take it out and replace or have it repaired if there are any small holes in it.
#10
Racer
Thread Starter
It is easy to get carried away.
While working on my 74 replacing the Original 1974 shocks in 2012, we went wild and replaced the entire suspension. Wow what a difference! It cost a bit more than I expected in time and $ but it has been Well worth the time and blood .
All in all it the total investment in parts and labor has been about $800.
While working on my 74 replacing the Original 1974 shocks in 2012, we went wild and replaced the entire suspension. Wow what a difference! It cost a bit more than I expected in time and $ but it has been Well worth the time and blood .
All in all it the total investment in parts and labor has been about $800.
#11
Racer
Thread Starter
Radiator is in good condition, no leaks and keeps the car nice and cool. Thanks for the tip on checking it. I never would have thought the radiator would be easy to get to by doing the bushings from underneath. It makes sense though it's a PITA from the top!
#12
Racer
Member Since: Nov 2006
Location: McLouth Kansas
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Check for frame cracks while all the suspension parts of off.
Some threads in the past were about front wheels collapsing due to the lower control arm falling off from frame failure.
After reading the threads I found a crack on mine
Some threads in the past were about front wheels collapsing due to the lower control arm falling off from frame failure.
After reading the threads I found a crack on mine