joeveto

Okay, so I bit the bullet and rebuilt my first carb. It took me three hours to disassemble, clean, replace, and reassemble everything.

So the obvious question is: Will it work? I dunno.

Here's my fear: I'm in the midst of an engine rebuild. What if I go to start the engine for the first time and break in the cam, and learn that I'm a carb rebuilding idiot? What do I do then?

Should the carb run well? I didn't have any parts leftover, everything seemed straightforward. I followed the instructions in the book. Is there a possibility that I screwed something up so badly that it will dump raw fuel into my engine or do a lot of damage otherwise?:eek:

Assuming I rebuilt my carb correcty, if you want your carb fixed, just send me the carb and $300...no $400 and I'll get right on it. I'll limit myself to a couple a day, and I'll sign each one. That way, next year, when I retire, you'll be guaranteed a collector's item. :D :D :D

PRNDL

i think I would test the rebuilt carb on a running engine before I put it on a new engine. If the new engine ran great, well that would be fine, but if it ran like crap you wouldnt know where the problem was. I rebuilt my carb (took me a couple of weeks in 15 - 30 minute sessions, i suk), put it on the old engine and it ran like crap and leaked. Havent gotten around to troubleshooting it yet, just put the good carb back on. :( MJ

joeveto

There's another post on this same topic. Lars took some time and made some great pointers (go figure). I think I know of one area where I made a mistake. I hooked the spring in the hole instead of on the rounded part. And I didn't check the float level. But I did use the quality NAPA rebuild kit and float. So other than that, I think I'm in good shape. Knock on wood. Right?

Watch, the car will burst into flames.

I'll take lots of photos. :crazy:

Rockn-Roll

The actual mechanical dissassembly and reassembly aren't that difficult if you watch out for the ball bearing which flies out of one of the holes and can get it back into the right hole...there's several tricks to installing the air horn (topmost assembly), but other than that the instructions should cover everything.

Not measuring the float is not that big of a deal IF it was properly adjusted before you took it apart AND you didn't accidentally bend it while handling it...it would also be bad if you got parts cleaner on it cause it may start to leak if it gets parts cleaner on it (the instructions should tell you not to clean it)...there's also a couple more parts like the power piston that includes a plastic seal which will distort and leak if you get parts cleaner on it (I don't think the instructions say not to clean it...but it would fall under the instructions saying not to put any plastic, painted, or rubber parts in the cleaner).

If you have another engine lying around that can accept the carb then try it out. If not don't worry about it until you have to use it...IMHO taking the carb apart just to check a few things would not help anything at this point.

stickboy

This is always a good sign :jester

I would take the top back off and fix these before you fill it with gas. The float level is an important part of getting the Qjet to run right.

derv3tt3

Hey Joe, if you want to try your carb out on my car email me back. :seeya :chevy

joeveto

Steve, I'm all over that one. If you don't mind, I'd really like to check out the carb. I'm going to fix the issues tonight (fix the spring and measure the float). I'm free anytime, so let me know what works for you. I'll E-mail you as soon as I log off and get on my e-mail account.

Thanks again!