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Well, my 74 was supposed to running as of today.. Worked by butt off all weekend to get it running today. The last step before putting the battery in was the coolant... Well, long story short. After a 4 month rebuild, my plans were set back as coolant poured from my radiator. Apparently I damaged it while it was waiting to be installed. It dosent look bad, and should be repairable.....
But I want your opinion as to fix the leak or go new.....
Ant idea what a new radiator would cost? Is aluminum the only option any more? The engine rebuild is grossly over budget already... And a new radiator was always at the back of my mind....
Are replacement radiators all direct fit? Can I get these from local vendors or only speciality shops like Dewitt's?
thoughts?
Last edited by Xterrable; May 28, 2012 at 10:33 PM.
Hi Xterrable, I was at this same spot a while back.
I have had a lot of radiators rebuilt with minimum success. I am not taking a run at rad shops but I have had no luck with a recore and tank R&R. I have always ended up with a small leaker around the tank or outlet/inlets. I detest 'green stains' from a leaky solder job. With a 1 year warranty on a car that gets driven 10 times a year does not cut it with me.
I saved my 1976 rad for the next buyer and bought a new aluminum one from a reputable vendor. The price of the original overhaul was the same money as the aluminum radiator.
Wow, sounds like my one of my last posts I just got done swapping in a big block in my vette, then went to fill up radiator and it started leaking on me. I tried a rad shop, they failed. I tried barsleak, it failed.
So I am just going to keep an eye out for a good used one, or save up enough for a new oem style one.
...as coolant poured from my radiator. Apparently I damaged it while it was waiting to be installed.
Re: repairing your OEM radiator...are we expected to guess what part of you radiator you damaged--inlet, outlet, top or bottom tank, cross tubes? Some parts are an easy fix. Some, like a tube, if damaged in the middle, can only be eliminated, reducing your cooling capacity. If cooling was marginal to begin with, perhaps a re-core is justified as long as the tanks are still in good shape.
I've always had good luck using
Reiter's Auto Radiator Service
11 N 10th St
Emmaus, PA 18049
(610) 967-1417
Steve - I put a cheap, stock replacement radiator from the local part store in mine a few years ago. I did get the larger, 4 row unit that was standard with the L82 engine. The rubber spacers that hold the rad need to be trimmed but otherwise it fit right in. Make sure you have ALL the seals in place.
Also, a good way to fill it is thru the thermostat location in the intake manifold. It will reach the level of the tstat and the top of the rad at the same time. Reinstall the tstat and you're good to go, no venting required.
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
Originally Posted by BKbroiler
Also, a good way to fill it is thru the thermostat location in the intake manifold. It will reach the level of the tstat and the top of the rad at the same time. Reinstall the tstat and you're good to go, no venting required.
Did that a few days ago and refilled the reservoir tank to half full. When the engine cooled after my first run, the rad sucked from the reservoir for the additional coolant.
Did that a few days ago and refilled the reservoir tank to half full. When the engine cooled after my first run, the rad sucked from the reservoir for the additional coolant.
That's right. I forgot to add the part about the overflow/reservoir tank.
Sorry for the lack of details.. My drivers side lower Shroud support bolt rusted off, so I tried to drill a new hole and run a bolt through it to hold the shroud to the support. But I guess I went to far and poked the radiator.... I put a hole about 1/8 x 1/4 inch in one of the cross tubes.. Stupid thing is, it really didint make any difference. I am sure it is repairable, but it has been repaired in a few spots already throughout the years. Cooling was marginal before and the car was semi stock and there was a bit of scale build up inside.
Since I beefed up the block on my rebuild, I decided to go with a Dewitt's aluminum... Im going to keep my stocker and get it fixed to use as a selling point / back up / or wall art...