alnukem

Hi, I have just bought a 4.125" bore SHP block & have a couple of complete, clean frame/body 79 L82 4 speed cars with 3.73 gears. I have new AFR 75cc Comp ported 195cc heads & Kieslers TKO-500 tranny. I want to build a bigger cube Hydraulic Roller SBC for going back & forth to work in the summers, 25 4 lane miles each way. With the Callies XD rods & 3.875" stroke, they say it will clear a standard cam. Am I missing the boat by not going to a 4" Stroke????? With a 3.875" stroke, I will have thicker pistons, theoretically better bearing life, less stress on the rods & any cam I want to stick in there. This is not a Max HP/Torque car......just a cruiser. Your input would be appreciated!

gkull

My advice is read the directions on the shp block. It tells you the max recommended stroke. 3.750

I had a 3,875 crank laying around for years in need of a home. It was an all day job at the race shop between the grinding, wash tank and removing all the plugs to clean out every little passage. 8 hours of labor to clearance the pan rails to clear the rod bolts.

I did it by hand because it was a one time job. A smarter person would have jigged it up on a vertical mill and whipped the block work out in half the time

Then the SHP oil pan is made for only 3.750.

Then ask your self is a 415 ci worth that much more money over a 400?

76strokervette

x2 I agree with gkull.If you go bigger I would stick to the 3.875 stroke.
The 4.0 stroke will have the rings in the pin bores and force you to use a small base circle cam.The 415 + cid engines would also like a little larger head (210).I was orginally going the 3.875 route myself but
changed my mind to improve the life of the engine.You will probably only
give up 15 to 20 hp going with the smaller stroke.I have a 400 shp build
being machined as we speak and hope to start putting it together soon.
I will be using callies crank and rods, cp pistons and pro-filer 210 heads.
When assembly starts I'll post pictures if anyone is interested.
Good luck with your project.
Dave

63mako

http://www.ultrastreet.net/engines/427_realstreet.asp This uses an SHP block w/ 4.000 stroke.

iokepakai

Interested for sure! Please do a write up with pics when you assemble your motor.I'm doing research on the SHP block,which stroke ,cam,heads to build a stout street motor.Aloha's

alnukem

GKULL......What type of Rods did you use? I will stay away from them! I talked to a couple of people that do a fair amount of 3.875's & they suggested the Callies XD Rods, they have a differerent angle for the rod bolt. The rod bolt angle should help rail, pan & cam clearence. Here is a link & video about it.

http://www.callies.com/connecting-rods/ultra-xd/

alnukem

Just posting what I finally did. When I was looking, I could not find a answer. We used a 4.125" Bore Dart SHP block, Callies Compstar 3.875" Stroke crank & the 6" Scat Pro Comp I beam rods with the ARP 2000 upgraded cap screw. Minor Grinding on the Pan Rails & Excellent Cam Clearance for a standard base circle Hydraulic street roller. It turns out to be a 1/8" stroked 400 displaceing 414 cubes. The engine builder said it was a pretty perfect setup for what I wanted...a street motor, he said for drag racing, he would have done H beam rods. He also said because it was light that balancing was easy, he just had to drill, did not have use any mallory metal. The Scat rods I used were the Pro Comp series which seems to be very well liked by the people that use them, which includes a couple of big names. The part number is Scat 2-ICR 6000 7/16 A. I imagine this would also work well in standard 350 blocks to make a 396 Stroker this would give you 13 extra cubes over a 383 with the same money & a little extra grinding on the pan rail. Thanks & Good Luck!

gkull

Yes, I used big H beam rods and custom wiseco pistons.

Well where are the pictures/

Crepitus

76strokervette

I 'm glad to hear you will not need a small base circle cam.That is what prompted me to go with the 3.75 stroke instead.My shortblock is supposed
to ship this next week,so hopefully I can start assembly soon.It would be nice
to take the roller cam and lifters off my desk and use them for more than a
conversation piece.I am curious how the 195 heads are going to work
for you and at what rpm the engine will taper off at.And finally x'2 on the
pictures.

alnukem

I initially bought the AFR 195's for a 4.03 bore 396 cube build. They are the Competition Ported version with the 2.08 intake valve & finer CNC'ing. Then I ponied up for a aftermarket block & of course, I could not say no to the bigger bore. Tony Mamo of AFR says they will be fine. I think they'll be fine also for "what I want", a street motor, I can gear for any weaknesses I find. You might want to study the below link, I forget whether it showed limitations of the heads or the intake. I went with these because they were bought & paid for & sitting there, I am sure they'll be fine.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...s-of-pics.html

garygnu

I used a 3.875 crank for my 427 sbc ,I like the rod to stroke ratio for longevity .I use a flat tappet cam with a pp intake and a 3310 carb and made 447 hp,505 tq.I switched to a air gap and a demon carb .I wish I had gone with a HR roller cam .

76strokervette

Those 195 comp ported afr heads are a pretty sweet head.I did not know
where you wanted to set your redline and peak powerband at.You should make some pretty impressive torque numbers with this combination.Do your
heads use the 1206 intake gasket?The 195 heads will also give you more
header options due to the availability of straight plugs.If my statement seemed critical I apologize because that was not my intent.I will be running
a victor jr on my engine and port matched the intake to the 1206 gasket
that matches my heads.I also did some plenum work on a cnc machine to
open the runners to match the heads.I'm just curiuos and trying to learn as I go along.When I start assembly we can compare notes if you wish.
ps(to port match intake I took out 5/16 of material on ther port height and 3/16 on the width)

alnukem

Did not think you were being critical....just comparing thoughts. I did get the straight plugs with, I'll take a lot of heat from this...a heat crossover. I tried very hard to get a setup to use a standard HR cam so I can swap off the shelf cams. I initially ported a Weiand Stealth manifold but will probably try one of the AFR plastic manifolds. I am going to see if anybody can fit one under a 79-81 hood. I have time as I believe I'll be slammed at work till probably April. I will be a resident of Ohio within about 6 months! I'll only be 90 miles away from you.

alnukem

Sorry for bringing a dead thread back to life after a decade, but I finally finished my build & in the sake of providing information for people searching for results, I am providing them, as there wasn't much info when I was looking.

Basic Build;

4.125" Dart SHP Block with 350 Mains
AFR 195 Eliminator Competition 75cc Heads with heat crossover
Callies Compstar 3.875" Crank
Scat 6" Pro Mod Rods with ARP 2000 bolts
530/530 @ 230/238 with a 112 lobe Hydraulic Roller(It was actually spec'd for a 396 SBC)
Weiand Stealth Dual Plane that was Exude-a-Honed to match the Ports
Barry Grant 650 CFM Mechanical Secondary Carb
Moroso Stroker Pan

Not a lot of Machining of the Pan rails with these rods.

On the Engine Dyno, the results are

560 Peak HP @ 5900
583 Peak Torque @ 4500

Ought to be a good street Engine, which is what I was going for. I know the Cam is too small, but it was paid for! Thanks!

Metalhead140

Nice! Thanks for posting the results. That will be a ton of fun as a street engine.

Kubs

That sounds like a great street build! I bet you could squeeze a bit more out with a bigger cam (like you eluded to) but you might start losing some streetability.

alnukem

Today, I might consider running a small Solid Roller, as I think the "roll off" would be a lot gentler, but it would be a bit more expensive & require setting the lash occasionally.

I am quite happy with it as it is, the goal was big block type torque with the small block weight. I also have a aluminium waterpump.

Now I have a lot of work getting the car ready. I have a 79 4-speed car with a clean body & rust free frame that has a clapped out suspension & a little bit rough interior. I also bought a 71 chassis with the VB&P "Big Daddy" Suspension kit & a 3.55 rear end. I think I'm going to pull the body, repaint the frame, replace brake & fuel lines & redo the suspension using what I want from the 71 chassis. Eventually, I'll have it painted with a Baldwin Motion style Paint job.

I am actually very surprised at what this engine did with the modest parts selection I used, it works for me!