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Distributor wiring questions

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Old Jun 27, 2012 | 08:22 PM
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Default Distributor wiring questions

OK, I'm coming back to the well spring of knowledge for some answers because I can't recall some of the specifics for wiring an HEI distributor.

I have a '73 small block from which I removed a points type distributor (not the original) because the tach drive gears are stripped. I bought a new tach drive HEI style distributor. The HEI type has three wires that run from the cap down into the distributor (standard design). Outboard of the three wires at the cap are two connections labeled "tach" and "batt". I obviously won't be using the "tach" connection. Also, the '73 had two wires to the + side of the coil: one was the cloth insulated ignition resistor wire, and the other one I have not traced back but I believe it is coming from the starter to deliver a full 12V, only when cranking.

My question is does the "batt" connection on an HEI want a full 12V when running or will it be happy with the reduced voltage supplied by the resistor wire coming from the ignition on the "73?? I recognize that HEI's were not used until '75.

If it will be happy with the lower voltage from the resistor wire, should I also connect the 12v lead from the starter?

If it needs a full 12v supply, how do I go about wiring this from the ignition switch since the stock wire is the cloth insulated resistor type and won't deliver 12v?

Here I sit, eager for the knowledge base of the forum to respond!

Thanks again for all the help!!

Paul
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Old Jun 27, 2012 | 08:36 PM
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Hello Paul

You need to run a wire from your fuse box to the distributor. You want to connect it to the ignition post on the fuse box so that it operate with the ignition on.

Scott
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Old Jun 27, 2012 | 10:12 PM
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Thanks Scott. That makes sense if the HEI needs 12V when running. I will get on that this weekend!
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Old Jun 27, 2012 | 10:43 PM
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If you trace the resistance wire back to the fuse block, you can then 'tap' into that wire, just after it leaves the block. There will be a negligible effect of the resistance wire, at that point. Also, you can then just cap or tape-off the end of the resistance wire and leave it intact, in case you decide [or a future buyer decides] to return it to stock configuration.
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