Car runs hot, need radiator shroud seal advice
07-16-2012, 10:39 AM
#21
Burning Brakes
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Ok, so this past weekend I fabricated a hood to radiator support seal using some scrap high density foam I found at my upholstery shop.
I then removed my front license plate and bracket to allow for better airflow into the radiator.
Before I went for a drive, my neighbor brought his super duper temperature testing device with thermal imaging home from work to test gauge accuracy. Man, this is a sweet machine! So while the car was warming up in the driveway, this was the temp reading.
The machine was about +/- 5 degrees of the mechanical gauge on the cluster, so that's not faulty.
Went for a drive in the evening and the temp was hovering around here on Friday night:
It crept up to the 200-210 mark a few minutes later though.
Saturday evening, took the car out again and the temp was stable at 160 degrees for the first five minutes, then decided to creep back up to its usual 200-210 degrees again.
So, after looking closely at the radiator, looks to be an aftermarket replacement that was painted by the previous owner to look new. I threw in the white flag - I bit the bullet and ordered a nice aluminum one from Dewitts. I just hope this solves the problem
I then removed my front license plate and bracket to allow for better airflow into the radiator.
Before I went for a drive, my neighbor brought his super duper temperature testing device with thermal imaging home from work to test gauge accuracy. Man, this is a sweet machine! So while the car was warming up in the driveway, this was the temp reading.
The machine was about +/- 5 degrees of the mechanical gauge on the cluster, so that's not faulty.
Went for a drive in the evening and the temp was hovering around here on Friday night:
It crept up to the 200-210 mark a few minutes later though.Saturday evening, took the car out again and the temp was stable at 160 degrees for the first five minutes, then decided to creep back up to its usual 200-210 degrees again.
So, after looking closely at the radiator, looks to be an aftermarket replacement that was painted by the previous owner to look new. I threw in the white flag - I bit the bullet and ordered a nice aluminum one from Dewitts. I just hope this solves the problem
Last edited by KevinG; 07-16-2012 at 10:42 AM.
07-16-2012, 11:03 AM
#22
Thanks for all the replies guys. I guess I left out some info.
-on a 96 degree late afternoon, the temp was around 210-220 while driving on the highway. Later in the evening on the way home, the car was hovering around 190-200 at night time.
-doesn't have front lip spoiler (was removed when it was painted)
-engine has less than 100 miles (Blueprint 355)
-never had center guage cluster hooked up when I was testing the old engine out. That engine dropped out 3 cam lobes.
-new 160 degree thermostat was installed (recommended by Blueprint engines)
-New waterpump installed onto new engine
I'll re-install the lip spoiler, put some foam seal on the sides of the shroud and the foam seal at the top of radiator support and see what that does.
Happy 4th of July!
-on a 96 degree late afternoon, the temp was around 210-220 while driving on the highway. Later in the evening on the way home, the car was hovering around 190-200 at night time.
-doesn't have front lip spoiler (was removed when it was painted)
-engine has less than 100 miles (Blueprint 355)
-never had center guage cluster hooked up when I was testing the old engine out. That engine dropped out 3 cam lobes.
-new 160 degree thermostat was installed (recommended by Blueprint engines)
-New waterpump installed onto new engine
I'll re-install the lip spoiler, put some foam seal on the sides of the shroud and the foam seal at the top of radiator support and see what that does.
Happy 4th of July!
What are you running for fuel? Highest grade available? Checked the timing lately?
Temperature gauges are only relative, and yours is 30 something years old. Buy a mechanical gauge and compare the two gauges for accuracy.
Burp the air out of the system. With the cap off, running at a fast idle of 1200 - 1500, check to see if water is circulating, add water slowly and allow for air to purge out, when full to top, cap it and check temp.
07-30-2012, 07:13 AM
#25
Burning Brakes
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So my direct fitment radiator for my 4spd '69 arrived in from Dewitts. Friend and I spent ~3 hours removing the old and installing the new. Dewitts looked to be very high quality also 
Removed the fan, then shroud and then the old radiator was able to come out. Did not want to remove the hood to re-align it again
using the radiator support being pushed forward technique.
Out with the old
She's out finally
Shiny new Dewitts
Set in her new home awaiting fan shroud to be put back in.
Now for the good news. The car will run at 160 degrees, however while sitting in traffic it will slowly creep up to 200-210 within 3-5 minutes. Getting back into motion having air run through the radiator it'll drop back down to 160. The old radiator would not drop past the 200-210 mark even while in motion.
So I think that my fanbelt needs a smaller size since it has a squeek to it even though its new. There is some play to it, and not super tight like my previous setup was.The alternator can't be pushed back since the previous owner put a larger size on and has no adjustment capabilities.
I'm hoping that its just the belt isn't turning the fan fast enough
Removed the fan, then shroud and then the old radiator was able to come out. Did not want to remove the hood to re-align it again using the radiator support being pushed forward technique.Out with the old
She's out finally
Shiny new Dewitts
Set in her new home awaiting fan shroud to be put back in.
Now for the good news. The car will run at 160 degrees, however while sitting in traffic it will slowly creep up to 200-210 within 3-5 minutes. Getting back into motion having air run through the radiator it'll drop back down to 160. The old radiator would not drop past the 200-210 mark even while in motion.
So I think that my fanbelt needs a smaller size since it has a squeek to it even though its new. There is some play to it, and not super tight like my previous setup was.The alternator can't be pushed back since the previous owner put a larger size on and has no adjustment capabilities.
I'm hoping that its just the belt isn't turning the fan fast enough
07-30-2012, 08:28 AM
#28
Burning Brakes
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2022 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
Hi KevinG
I been in this story with my SB 68, The only thing that solve the problem from getting hot when car was on traffic or standing is that I put Big Alum' Radiator (open system) with big shroud.
I have flex fan direct bolt to the pulley.
Avner
I been in this story with my SB 68, The only thing that solve the problem from getting hot when car was on traffic or standing is that I put Big Alum' Radiator (open system) with big shroud.
I have flex fan direct bolt to the pulley.
Avner
Last edited by avner; 07-30-2012 at 08:36 AM.
Correct fan and clutch, all foam seals and shroud in place and distributor vacuum advance on manifold vacuum to increase idle timing advance.
07-30-2012, 09:34 AM
#31
Race Director
You just have the dreaded creep, problem with that is if you ever get stuck in a traffic jam on a highway you can't get off on hot day it will overheat ask me how I know. Just letting you be aware of what can happen, if the situation every occurs get off the road and shut the motor off it will not stabilize running it is in thermal runaway, wait until you get a clear road.
Look into dual electric fans, I didn't take any chances with my new 427ci engine and have dual 13 in. Spal fans.
Look into dual electric fans, I didn't take any chances with my new 427ci engine and have dual 13 in. Spal fans.
07-30-2012, 10:12 AM
#32
Former Vendor
Now for the good news. The car will run at 160 degrees, however while sitting in traffic it will slowly creep up to 200-210 within 3-5 minutes. Getting back into motion having air run through the radiator it'll drop back down to 160. The old radiator would not drop past the 200-210 mark even while in motion. :
07-30-2012, 11:15 AM
#33
Idle temperature creep is typically a sign of not enough distributor timing advance. This could be the result of a broken vacuum advance can, missing can, or plumbed up to a "ported" vacuum source instead of full manifold vacuum. Check out all these possibilities to insure the original system is working. You can easily test the effects of idle timing by simply running the engine and advancing or retarding the timing manually. Idle the engine and let the temperature level out, then advance the timing a few degrees and see if the temperature decreases.
08-07-2012, 07:05 AM
#34
Burning Brakes
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Ok, the previous owner put on a direct bolt on fan and spacer without a fan clutch. Removed those, Autozone only had an 18" fan and that was barely touching the shroud - returned it and ordered the correct 17.25" from Amazon($46). Autozone had to order the fan clutch ($35).
Attached the fan to the fan clutch using the provided bolts and lock washers.
So I got some 1.5" bolts with flat washers and lock washers and attached the fan clutch and new fan to the water pump.
Started the car up - no belt squeeking. Also the old "direct bolt on fan" wasn't centered and had wobble to it while turning - the clutch setup is straight and true!
Was a little worried about the 1.5" bolts being .25" away from the water pump assembly though. Peeking through the pulley holes.
Drove the car for about 10 miles yesterday afternoon. Got to about 150-160 while in motion. Going in stop and go traffic it was reading about 180. Is that normal for the temperature guage to fluctuate a little, or should it stay at one temp?
Attached the fan to the fan clutch using the provided bolts and lock washers.
So I got some 1.5" bolts with flat washers and lock washers and attached the fan clutch and new fan to the water pump.
Started the car up - no belt squeeking. Also the old "direct bolt on fan" wasn't centered and had wobble to it while turning - the clutch setup is straight and true!
Was a little worried about the 1.5" bolts being .25" away from the water pump assembly though. Peeking through the pulley holes.
Drove the car for about 10 miles yesterday afternoon. Got to about 150-160 while in motion. Going in stop and go traffic it was reading about 180. Is that normal for the temperature guage to fluctuate a little, or should it stay at one temp?
08-07-2012, 08:41 AM
#35
Safety Car
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
I believe you've solved your over heating problem.