69 Chevy

I want the air moving fast and the coolant moving slow. If the coolant does not spend enough time in the radiator to get cooled, it just flows back into the engine to pick up more heat.

lionelhutz

Lets look at the flip side of your "it won't cool if it goes through the rad too quickly" arguement. If the coolant is flowing so quickly through the rad that it can't cool down then it'll also be flowing so quickly through the engine that it can't pick up more heat. So, what would happen in this case - the metal parts of the engine get extremely hot but the coolant and rad never pick-up any of this heat?? We should all know this is complete nonsense.

Lets talk the other extreme. If the coolant works better the slower it goes then it should work the best with the coolant not flowing at all. We should all know this is also complete nonsense.

Lets talk how the thermostat operates. The thermostat will open more as the coolant in the engine gets hotter. Being open more will cause more flow. The basic fundamental way the thermostat makes the system operate is completely the opposite of your arguement.

The OP has been given a lot of good suggestions from the other forum members. Making the coolant flow slower wasn't one of them.

JSH

I went out and picked up laser temp reader ,aimed at the ther housing and it read 185 180 etc. and theres only suppused to be about a 4 degree variance so I think the sendind unit is not calibrated properly or I could try a new gage

lionelhutz

Sounds like good news! I guess you either live with it, try a new guage or fix or replace the one you have.

You could also check the grounding between the engine and the cluster. A poor ground might be causing the wrong reading.

JSH

Thanks for all the great replies guys.All the best J.S.H.

69 Chevy

So, from your argument, we should all completely remove our thermostats and install high flow water pumps? Not for me, brother. I'm quite happy with the way GM's engineers made mine...180 degree thermostat, stacked plate aluminum radiator and a regular water pump impeller. But I went them one better by entirely removing their clutch fan apparatus and replacing it with an electric fan controlled by a separate adjustable thermostat with its sensor embedded in between the cooling tubes. No fan needed above 25 mph as there's plenty of air flow. Rarely needed below 25 mph as my engine does not go above 220 degrees even in rush hour traffic with 100 degree ambient temps.

I'll stick with what works on my '69. You do as you please.

lionelhutz

I didn't post to remove the thermostat. If it's working correctly it will open at your desired operating temperature and allow the required flow. But, if you have lots of airflow and a healthy rad yet still need more cooling then a high flow pump, high flow thermostat or even just a smaller pump pulley may be required. This isn't rocket science. If you need more cooling then you likely need either more coolant flow or more air flow unless you've gone way past the heat dissipating ability of the rad.