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Since your trigger wire is on the low beam, it seems like the lights would go down if you turned on the hi beams at which time the low beam is turned off.
Thanks! I still need to come up with a boot or dust cover, to help keep engine bay heat out of the cowl area.
If you go back and read my thread, you will see that I used a simple piece of flat rubber with a slit cut into it between the bracket and the firewall. To be honest, I was more concerned about water from the cowl entering the engine compartment!
I saw that, and I like it. In fact.... it was AFTER I read your thread that I abandoned the seat motor idea, and decided to go with the Miata motor, for the same reason, the seat motor was incredibly slow!
If you go back and read my thread, you will see that I used a simple piece of flat rubber with a slit cut into it between the bracket and the firewall. To be honest, I was more concerned about water from the cowl entering the engine compartment!
I know, right? I like how he got his closer to the firewall.... mine must be from the other side. I like the round bracket too, but it looks like only 2 bolts hold the motor? I pretty much used the same bracket as yours for the headlights.... so the wiring & tubing, etc. will still tuck in behind the motor.
Like I said before.... if it will fit in there with that beast of an engine in your car, it should fit in with my mouse engine without getting in the way!
Yep-He's using a right hand (pass side ) and you've got a driver side motor.
The issue I am trying to solve is- how to control the wiper door motor without changing anything else out. As for when to trigger the motor to open- that's easy- just use the blue wire off the motor -when it sees a ground the wiper door opens- so just take a negative trigger and convert it to positive. (TR7-Pac below will do that)
Closing the wiper door...I could use the timer in the module- but if you turned off the car w/ the wiper on- the wipers would stop in their tracks and the door would close on the wipers. I could make the ignition on as part of the input-if you loose ignition- the door wouldn't close... but it would still be possible to close on the wipers if for some reason it timed out....Just going to have to mess w/ it.
Just trying to avoid any external switches...relays- and be able just to use a TR7- Pac universal trigger output module-
I'm working on a conical cam design- because I want right up against the firewall. OH- if you look CLOSELY- there's some acorn nuts on the valve cover....
Question, my right headlight going down now makes a funny squeak when it parks. I have looked and looked and can't find it, I even sprayed lube all-around but still does it. Could it be coming from the motor?
Question, my right headlight going down now makes a funny squeak when it parks. I have looked and looked and can't find it, I even sprayed lube all-around but still does it. Could it be coming from the motor?
The C3 headlight system uses vacumn, there are no motors for the headlights. Are you talking about a C2?
Question, my right headlight going down now makes a funny squeak when it parks. I have looked and looked and can't find it, I even sprayed lube all-around but still does it. Could it be coming from the motor?
Try this:
Disconnect the right headlight mechanism from the motor, and then move the mechanism up and down manually while listening for any noise.
If you don't hear any noise coming from the mechanism, disable the left headlight motor (so it makes no noise at all), and cycle the right motor a few times while listening for any noise.
I know, right? I like how he got his closer to the firewall.... mine must be from the other side. I like the round bracket too, but it looks like only 2 bolts hold the motor?
Yes, you are using the passenger side motor, while I used a driver's side motor. I completely cut off the outer mounting leg on the motor, and I cut the other 2 remaining mounting legs shorter. The mounting leg at the back which is against the firewall comes close to the factory box for the fan and heater core, so it needed to be shorter, so I just cut the other leg to match.
Originally Posted by Richard454
Yea- give us a brake Bruce- Acorn nuts!!! Really?
Super nice attention to detail!!!
Originally Posted by Richard454
The issue I am trying to solve is- how to control the wiper door motor without changing anything else out. As for when to trigger the motor to open- that's easy- just use the blue wire off the motor -when it sees a ground the wiper door opens- so just take a negative trigger and convert it to positive. (TR7-Pac below will do that)
Closing the wiper door...I could use the timer in the module- but if you turned off the car w/ the wiper on- the wipers would stop in their tracks and the door would close on the wipers. I could make the ignition on as part of the input-if you loose ignition- the door wouldn't close... but it would still be possible to close on the wipers if for some reason it timed out....Just going to have to mess w/ it.
Just trying to avoid any external switches...relays- and be able just to use a TR7- Pac universal trigger output module-
I'm working on a conical cam design- because I want right up against the firewall. OH- if you look CLOSELY- there's some acorn nuts on the valve cover....
All this talk about my nuts has made me.........hungry!!!
Looks like a really interesting design Richard! Maybe you are just over complicating the issue; if you use a limit switch for the wiper arm interlock and a spdt relay for control like I did, it should work pretty much as mine does.
I picked up 2 Miata headlight bucket assemblies off Craigslist for $100. After removing the motors I listed them and sold them on eBay for $100. after shipping and fees I'll have recouped ~$70.
My cost for the conversion will be ~$30 for the motors, whatever I paid Richard for his brackets and wiring plus maybe another $5 for misc. Hardware.
09-01-2016, 12:35 AM
