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Hi,
I am dealing with some electric short in my Corvette C3 1982. The result is, that alternator is damaged. It gives more than 18V; it goes linearly along with RPM. OK, it went for rebuilding.
The main issue is melded wires near to/ in fuse block (see picture).
I need to inspect what is melded together, repair isolation / change the damaged wire. To be sure that the wiring is OK.
I have read some threads about fuse block removal. There are two parts (connectors) – one from interior and alter from engine side. The interior part is fitted with two screws – no problem to loosen them. The problem is to loosen the screw (3/8“) from engine part (picture). I feel that it pulls, but does not want to be loosen at all. Is there any trick how to loosen this screw?
But do I need this? Is there any way, how to inspect the fuse block? I guess there should be a way to "open" the fuse block. It looks the fuse block is consist of two parts and if I pull out the screws I will be able to open it. Only to release some connectors / fitting, but not damaged it. Could you give please an advice, how to divide the fuse block in two parts, if it possible of course.
Or any other advices, how to deal with this problem? - melded and unisolatd wires
If you look at the sides the screws go through, there are plastic clips that hold the 2 halves together. Gently pry them back and the pieces will come apart. Look to the right of your arrow- the small round part outside of the screw.
So I inspected an engine part of the car and the problem is concerning the main battery power cable:
So I decided that the best way would be to change all the wiring harnesses (main dash, engine, front lights, and generator) in the car to be sure, that all is ok for future. Fuse block connectors look that there are not in good condition and could be contradictory do change only the damaged cable. Or do you have any suggestion or recommendation depends on your experiences?
Only one shop, where I have found harnesses for C3 1982 without defrost is here. Any reviews of their products? Or do you have any suggestion where to buy it (with shipping to Europe)?
replacing the harness is the only way to go, that much heat damaged the plastic housing on my car. I was broke and had went back to college when I found my harness like this so I bought the cheapest I could find, it works but I wouldnt use it again. If you want a completely stock harness for originality it gets expensive quick, I stopped counting at $700. If you are ok with aftermarket I hear good things about American auto wire and Ron Francis but they are pricey, also while you are doing this it is a good time to address factory wiring short comings like adding headlight, power window relays.
Just wondering, is that the RED battery wire going to your alternator? If it is, you better check the fusible link that should be inside the frame going back to the battery box. I would guess that it doesn't have one and is what it's for to prevent that type of issue. Mine is about 8-10" from the end in the rear of the frame.
For replacement harness that is close as you can get to OEM, I'd look real hard at "Lectric Limited". I replaced all the harnesses in my 69. Colors and lengths were right on the spot. Regardless of which harnesses you pick, hang them up by one end and work them to get them to lay straight. It'll make the install much easier.
Just wondering, is that the RED battery wire going to your alternator? If it is, you better check the fusible link that should be inside the frame going back to the battery box. I would guess that it doesn't have one and is what it's for to prevent that type of issue. Mine is about 8-10" from the end in the rear of the frame.
mine did the same thing but it was due to corrosion in the bulk head connectors. It still charged and showed good on the gauge, I could smell the wire melting but couldnt find it till everything in the interior quit working.
Just wondering, is that the RED battery wire going to your alternator? If it is, you better check the fusible link that should be inside the frame going back to the battery box. I would guess that it doesn't have one and is what it's for to prevent that type of issue. Mine is about 8-10" from the end in the rear of the frame.
You know I am the third owner here in Europe from '94, so can only guess what happened with the car before... Thanks for a tip, I count with the new alternator <-> battery cable
You need to find out what caused the wires to melt. If you change out the harness without finding the cause it might just burn up the new harness to.
The cause of it was the broken alternator, which start overcharged the battery more than 18-20V. I will know exactly on Thursday what was wrong with the alternator... I am wondering how fast it was. It happened on 1km climbing, then the cable started to smell and smoke
04-13-2019, 05:13 AM
Fuse block - melded wires inspection
