Dash wire harness in my 1977 corvette?
08-24-2012, 01:41 PM
#21
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I think LL is saying his car is altered, not the harness altered. I think you have something plugged in wrong, maybe on a large connector, you are off a lug to make things operate crazy. Check all connections where there is more than wire feeding in. Sometimes things just get plugged in wrong. I have never had any problems with LL or their products.
To the OP, you say your car is not altered, nothing but stock motor and everything, no aftermarket amps or anything altered under the hood?
To the OP, you say your car is not altered, nothing but stock motor and everything, no aftermarket amps or anything altered under the hood?
I bought the LL harness because it was so recommended. And I am not saying that there is anything wrong with the harness, yet. It is extremely well made and I like the workmanship on the harness. But, it does not work, YET.
Last edited by KcMike; 08-24-2012 at 04:54 PM.
08-24-2012, 01:44 PM
#22
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hmmm, now that I`ve had my coffee and a little awake
STEP 1
try putting car in reverse or drive anything but park or neutral and see if it will crank please chock the wheels or apply brake in a open area. if it does then track from center console to steering column, the harness will be built back assward,
STEP 2
If it doesnt return to park just turn key to ON not crank, and tap starter solenoid, when it does start try to turn it off with key,If it will not you know that it wlll be between ignition switch wiring to dist, only thing to keep car running would be the 12 volts to the dist, if you have a msd box disconnect it and hook up the factory 12 volt source to dist also and try step 2 again.
STEP 3
If it still wont turn off with key on, look at old harness compared to new one where it plugs into fuse box,
they may have made harness wrong and installed wrong male plugs between IGN, ACC, OR BAT
If you have a electric choke use testlight/multimeter and see if there is power there 100% of the time, should only be power with key on,
Hope this will help a little bit,
lowe
STEP 1
try putting car in reverse or drive anything but park or neutral and see if it will crank please chock the wheels or apply brake in a open area. if it does then track from center console to steering column, the harness will be built back assward,
STEP 2
If it doesnt return to park just turn key to ON not crank, and tap starter solenoid, when it does start try to turn it off with key,If it will not you know that it wlll be between ignition switch wiring to dist, only thing to keep car running would be the 12 volts to the dist, if you have a msd box disconnect it and hook up the factory 12 volt source to dist also and try step 2 again.
STEP 3
If it still wont turn off with key on, look at old harness compared to new one where it plugs into fuse box,
they may have made harness wrong and installed wrong male plugs between IGN, ACC, OR BAT
If you have a electric choke use testlight/multimeter and see if there is power there 100% of the time, should only be power with key on,
Hope this will help a little bit,
lowe
08-24-2012, 02:08 PM
#23
Racer
will check
[QUOTE=KcMike;1581654211]Interesting you mention IGN, ACC, And BAT. I have focused some time working on those plugs. Of the four plugs, the top two are hot all the time and the bottom two are only hot when I turn the key to run. Do you know if that is correct?[/QUOT
I will check on mine either today or tomorrow and let you know
lowe
I will check on mine either today or tomorrow and let you know
lowe
08-24-2012, 02:11 PM
#24
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[QUOTE=lowes-yellow77;1581654440]
Thanks! Could you also let me know what color the wire is to each?
Interesting you mention IGN, ACC, And BAT. I have focused some time working on those plugs. Of the four plugs, the top two are hot all the time and the bottom two are only hot when I turn the key to run. Do you know if that is correct?[/QUOT
I will check on mine either today or tomorrow and let you know
lowe
I will check on mine either today or tomorrow and let you know
lowe
08-24-2012, 10:23 PM
#25
Racer
here you go
[QUOTE=KcMike;1581654462]
kcmike,
also off the pink and black there is a tap if you want to get ignition power for something looks to be factory
also off the pink and black there is a tap if you want to get ignition power for something looks to be factory
Last edited by lowes-yellow77; 08-24-2012 at 10:26 PM.
08-25-2012, 12:52 AM
#26
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08-25-2012, 08:29 PM
#28
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[QUOTE=KcMike;1581658653]
THANK YOU Very much for the great pic and labeling. Unfortunately the fuse block is the same on my car. I tried again and disconnected the two plugs from the ign switch (on top of the steering column) and there is still power to everything that would normalcy have power if the key was in the run position. That seems very strange to me. The power has to be coming directly to the system before the switch. I guess I am down to pulling out the harness. I am going to be really pissed if it turns out the harness is the wrong one.
THANK YOU Very much for the great pic and labeling. Unfortunately the fuse block is the same on my car. I tried again and disconnected the two plugs from the ign switch (on top of the steering column) and there is still power to everything that would normalcy have power if the key was in the run position. That seems very strange to me. The power has to be coming directly to the system before the switch. I guess I am down to pulling out the harness. I am going to be really pissed if it turns out the harness is the wrong one.
08-25-2012, 08:56 PM
#29
Racer
before you tear it apart....
quick question so if you have power windows they work with key off?
reverse lights with key off?
ok disconnect the third wire down, one that is pink and black going into fuse box car will still start but anything that is key on power shouldnt work, ie.power windows radio, gauges.
Not trying to put the blame on you but I do belive somewhere off the fuse box off the black/orange wire or the second one that has power at all times as per my car.....somehow you have tapped into a IGN power wire only from a12 volt all the time source, a wire may have a correct clip to fit but it doesnt mean it goes there.
lowe
quick question so if you have power windows they work with key off?
reverse lights with key off?
ok disconnect the third wire down, one that is pink and black going into fuse box car will still start but anything that is key on power shouldnt work, ie.power windows radio, gauges.
Not trying to put the blame on you but I do belive somewhere off the fuse box off the black/orange wire or the second one that has power at all times as per my car.....somehow you have tapped into a IGN power wire only from a12 volt all the time source, a wire may have a correct clip to fit but it doesnt mean it goes there.
lowe
Last edited by lowes-yellow77; 08-25-2012 at 09:02 PM.
08-25-2012, 11:14 PM
#30
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before you tear it apart....
quick question so if you have power windows they work with key off?
reverse lights with key off?
ok disconnect the third wire down, one that is pink and black going into fuse box car will still start but anything that is key on power shouldnt work, ie.power windows radio, gauges.
Not trying to put the blame on you but I do belive somewhere off the fuse box off the black/orange wire or the second one that has power at all times as per my car.....somehow you have tapped into a IGN power wire only from a12 volt all the time source, a wire may have a correct clip to fit but it doesnt mean it goes there.
lowe
quick question so if you have power windows they work with key off?
reverse lights with key off?
ok disconnect the third wire down, one that is pink and black going into fuse box car will still start but anything that is key on power shouldnt work, ie.power windows radio, gauges.
Not trying to put the blame on you but I do belive somewhere off the fuse box off the black/orange wire or the second one that has power at all times as per my car.....somehow you have tapped into a IGN power wire only from a12 volt all the time source, a wire may have a correct clip to fit but it doesnt mean it goes there.
lowe
OK, the power windows work all the time. With or without the key on.
The reverse lights only come on when the key is in the run position.
When I disconnect the third wire (pink and black) the car will still turn over, don’t know if it would start or not as there is not enough juice in the battery right now. The rest of the electrical system seems to work better. The gauges and lights do not work unless key is in the run position. I need to do some more work on this part. Seems like we may be on to something here. It is very strange that disconnecting the wire from the space that is keyed caused the rest of the electrical system to work better. I will study the wiring layouts and get back with you.
I am leaving for Chicago for work early Sunday morning and will not be back until late in the week. This will bug me until I get back and have time to work on it more. Thank you for your help! I only wish I could play with it now. Oh well, work has to be done in order to buy part for the car.
Mike
08-25-2012, 11:57 PM
#31
Racer
Ok, yep we all have to work to buy buy buy.
When you say lights won't work which ones are you talking about,with the pink and black disconeccted and key one nothing that is ignition should work, so we know its going to be in this circuit somewhere, I will look over some schematics and see where IGN power can cross with all the time power, and will update post if I find somewhat of a idea.
By the way electrical issues can drive people nuts I just take a easier approach than most people, know how its suppose to work then go from there by elimination.
I chased a dead short and found after a 3-4 days of chasing that the old shift light idicator from before the auto to 4 speed swap housing cracked and was rubbing power to ground it damn near drove me completly nuts. So no worries just take your time and the problem will be found.
Lowe
When you say lights won't work which ones are you talking about,with the pink and black disconeccted and key one nothing that is ignition should work, so we know its going to be in this circuit somewhere, I will look over some schematics and see where IGN power can cross with all the time power, and will update post if I find somewhat of a idea.
By the way electrical issues can drive people nuts I just take a easier approach than most people, know how its suppose to work then go from there by elimination.
I chased a dead short and found after a 3-4 days of chasing that the old shift light idicator from before the auto to 4 speed swap housing cracked and was rubbing power to ground it damn near drove me completly nuts. So no worries just take your time and the problem will be found.
Lowe
08-26-2012, 12:39 AM
#32
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Ok, yep we all have to work to buy buy buy.
When you say lights won't work which ones are you talking about,with the pink and black disconeccted and key one nothing that is ignition should work, so we know its going to be in this circuit somewhere, I will look over some schematics and see where IGN power can cross with all the time power, and will update post if I find somewhat of a idea.
By the way electrical issues can drive people nuts I just take a easier approach than most people, know how its suppose to work then go from there by elimination.
I chased a dead short and found after a 3-4 days of chasing that the old shift light idicator from before the auto to 4 speed swap housing cracked and was rubbing power to ground it damn near drove me completly nuts. So no worries just take your time and the problem will be found.
Lowe
When you say lights won't work which ones are you talking about,with the pink and black disconeccted and key one nothing that is ignition should work, so we know its going to be in this circuit somewhere, I will look over some schematics and see where IGN power can cross with all the time power, and will update post if I find somewhat of a idea.
By the way electrical issues can drive people nuts I just take a easier approach than most people, know how its suppose to work then go from there by elimination.
I chased a dead short and found after a 3-4 days of chasing that the old shift light idicator from before the auto to 4 speed swap housing cracked and was rubbing power to ground it damn near drove me completly nuts. So no worries just take your time and the problem will be found.
Lowe
09-03-2012, 01:49 PM
#33
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I was talking about the headlights. They only work when the key is on, not all the time like before I unplugged the 3rd wire. I went back and checked all the electrical again and it all seems to be working correctly. I was not able to spend much time with it, but it sure seems to work good with what I was able to check. I am looking forward to returning and spending next weekend with it. Thanks again for your help!
09-04-2012, 01:43 AM
#34
Racer
I did some looking there appears to be a early and late dash wiring harness for a 77, thats the only thing i can think of at this point and time, but yes something is not right especially if the harness is plug and play.
lowe
lowe
09-04-2012, 12:19 PM
#35
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I talked to someone different ay LL today and was very pleased with the conversation. He was very helpful and took the time to learn what was going on with the electrical system. We decided to replace the power window relay befor taking out the harness. He said that what it is doing, should not be happening. I agreed and laughed. May be something shorted within the fuse block also. I ordered the relay and will let you know if it helps.
09-21-2012, 02:14 PM
#36
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Ok, I finally received the relay and got tome to put it in the car. Unfortunately it did not fix the problem. However, I was convinced that I was on the right track based on all the testing and from the process of elimination. So I decided to start at the relay and track or pull out all three wires that plug into the power window relay. I made it only about 8" from the relay and found a wad of electrical tape on the wires. It was around all three wires. I was a little giddy about taking off the tape. And my suspension was correct. Someone that owned the car had stripped all three wires and wrapped a wire around them so that they would short out together. Why you may ask? Well, apparently because the fuse block was rusted and the power window breaker would not stay in the block they needed to get power to the window system. Because it allowed power to flow back into the entire electrical system it must have Bowen the fuse to the instruments. It is only a 10 amp fuse, so they changed it to a 30 amp fuse in the old fuse block. I fixed the wires and it is ALL good now. Thank you all for you help in tracking down the problem.
09-24-2012, 01:45 AM
#37
Racer
hell yeah
well at least you will know for the future take your time and it will all come to pass. you know now that the car has been monkeyed with a little bit and will soon work out all the kinks.
lowe
lowe
