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Dash wire harness in my 1977 corvette?

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Old 08-23-2012, 10:22 AM
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KcMike
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Default Dash wire harness in my 1977 corvette?

I put a new LL dash wire harness in my 1977 corvette. It went in fairly easy. It really only goes in one way and the plugs are easy to track. However, there is a big problem and I can not seem to figure it out. The system is hot like you were to turn the key to run. The ignition is hot, gauges, everything that is on when the key is in the run position. I unplugged the ignition switch, both plugs, and the system is still hot. I am at a loss, any idea what might be the problem. Could it be the wrong harness? Thanks!
Old 08-23-2012, 01:22 PM
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oldalaskaman
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call 'll' and tell them to fix it?
Old 08-23-2012, 04:36 PM
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KcMike
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Originally Posted by oldalaskaman
call 'll' and tell them to fix it?
I called LL. and was told the the problem is that the car must be altered. The car has not been altered. He would not believe me. I asked several times how I can check to tell if I have the correct one. Would not say anything except that the car must be altered.
Old 08-23-2012, 05:34 PM
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oldalaskaman
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I think you may have a ground and a hot wire miss-connected. possibly, and are juicing everything when it should be ign. switched hot, could you take some pic's of your hookups, and post them?
Old 08-23-2012, 07:26 PM
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lowes-yellow77
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i would look into where power comes in at the fuse box, something is tapped or plugged in wrong spot

http://www.nrjvette.com/johdotukset/...tte%201977.pdf

here ya go,

lowe

Last edited by lowes-yellow77; 08-23-2012 at 07:30 PM. Reason: help
Old 08-23-2012, 07:33 PM
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lowes-yellow77
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in fact heres for the rest of they guys

http://www.nrjvette.com/johdotukset/?C=D;O=D
Old 08-23-2012, 07:41 PM
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oldalaskaman
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thankyou, have it in the aim and cd, but a separate copy to work from and carry around is excellent
Old 08-24-2012, 12:37 AM
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KcMike
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Originally Posted by lowes-yellow77
i would look into where power comes in at the fuse box, something is tapped or plugged in wrong spot

http://www.nrjvette.com/johdotukset/...tte%201977.pdf

here ya go,

lowe
Thank You for the post! I have two sets of laminated schematics. One from DocRebuild's (that is GREAT) and a colored set that is similar to the ones provided. I will keep working at it and hope I can track where there is a bad connection. If not I think I will have to put the old one back in and see if it work. THANKS again!!
Old 08-24-2012, 02:34 AM
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lowes-yellow77
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Originally Posted by KcMike
Thank You for the post! I have two sets of laminated schematics. One from DocRebuild's (that is GREAT) and a colored set that is similar to the ones provided. I will keep working at it and hope I can track where there is a bad connection. If not I think I will have to put the old one back in and see if it work. THANKS again!!
mike,

I really didnt really understand your post if your wires are hot at all times i would think it would be in the headlight wiring or the lights when you open the door they should be hot at all times or clock and cigarette lighter

lowe
Old 08-24-2012, 08:45 AM
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KcMike
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Originally Posted by lowes-yellow77
mike,

I really didnt really understand your post if your wires are hot at all times i would think it would be in the headlight wiring or the lights when you open the door they should be hot at all times or clock and cigarette lighter

lowe
I only replaced the dash wire harness. The electrical system worked correctly before the harness was replaced. Well, it worked as well as could be expected with a rusted fuse block. The problem is everything is hot all the time, as if the key was turned to the run position. Yes the headlights work and are hot all the time. The lights are not on unless I pull the switch, but there is power to the switch. The ignition to the engine is hot all the time. The car started when I turned the key and ran great, just like before the new harness. The problem came in when I turned off the key and took it out of the ignition, the car kept running. Because the ignition is hot all the time. As if the key was in the run position.

The problem is in the new wire harness, i think, either the hook up or the construction of it. I wish I could rule out that it is the correct harness. I could not get the guy from LL to tell me how or if there is a way to identify the harness as the correct one. He was hung up on my car being customized, and it is not. The harness really only goes one way. The plugs are all unique and can only be plugged where they should go. Plus I marked every wire and am very comfortable with that part of the installation. The plastic bag the harness came in was marked with the year and make of the car. But was the correct harness put in the bag. I guess I am down to pulling the new harness out and putting the old one in. That will tell me if it is the harness, I hope. What a pain in the NECK. I have read several posts about the great customer service from LL, I mush have called on the wrong day and talked to the wrong guy.

I know it is difficult at best to try to help with out seeing the problem. I am not sure what to take a pic of that might help.

Thank you all very much.

Last edited by KcMike; 08-24-2012 at 08:49 AM.
Old 08-24-2012, 09:08 AM
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oldalaskaman
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call back and ask to speak to that loser's boss or the owner
Old 08-24-2012, 10:56 AM
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lowes-yellow77
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oh ok,


I would be putting a foot in someones ***, just tell them you want to return it

lowe
Old 08-24-2012, 11:01 AM
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oldalaskaman
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was that a direct plug in? or did you have to splice at the fuse box?
Old 08-24-2012, 11:15 AM
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Lectric Limited has a good reputation for turning out a quality product. I would be very surprised if they stated a 77 would have to be "altered" to use their harness. Doesn't sound like them.

My advice would be to call back and see if you can get to the bottom of what is actually going on.

Old 08-24-2012, 11:30 AM
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oldalaskaman
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http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...RY2TCsPUtiTKfg
hope this helps, says they 'do' warrentee their parts
Old 08-24-2012, 11:40 AM
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lowes-yellow77
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hmmm, now that I`ve had my coffee and a little awake

STEP 1

try putting car in reverse or drive anything but park or neutral and see if it will crank please chock the wheels or apply brake in a open area. if it does then track from center console to steering column, the harness will be built back assward,

STEP 2

If it doesnt return to park just turn key to ON not crank, and tap starter solenoid, when it does start try to turn it off with key,If it will not you know that it wlll be between ignition switch wiring to dist, only thing to keep car running would be the 12 volts to the dist, if you have a msd box disconnect it and hook up the factory 12 volt source to dist also and try step 2 again.

STEP 3

If it still wont turn off with key on, look at old harness compared to new one where it plugs into fuse box,

they may have made harness wrong and installed wrong male plugs between IGN, ACC, OR BAT


If you have a electric choke use testlight/multimeter and see if there is power there 100% of the time, should only be power with key on,

Hope this will help a little bit,

lowe

Last edited by lowes-yellow77; 08-24-2012 at 12:27 PM. Reason: photo
Old 08-24-2012, 11:43 AM
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oldalaskaman
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I was reading their info and they said to compare the number on the harness to the number on the package and then to your order to make sure the right part got sent.

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Old 08-24-2012, 11:46 AM
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lvmyvt76
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I think LL is saying his car is altered, not the harness altered. I think you have something plugged in wrong, maybe on a large connector, you are off a lug to make things operate crazy. Check all connections where there is more than wire feeding in. Sometimes things just get plugged in wrong. I have never had any problems with LL or their products.

To the OP, you say your car is not altered, nothing but stock motor and everything, no aftermarket amps or anything altered under the hood?

Last edited by lvmyvt76; 08-24-2012 at 11:49 AM.
Old 08-24-2012, 01:31 PM
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KcMike
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Originally Posted by oldalaskaman
was that a direct plug in? or did you have to splice at the fuse box?

It is a direct plug in and completely stock. No splicing, at least not that I have seen.
Old 08-24-2012, 01:36 PM
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KcMike
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Originally Posted by lowes-yellow77
hmmm, now that I`ve had my coffee and a little awake

STEP 1

try putting car in reverse or drive anything but park or neutral and see if it will crank please chock the wheels or apply brake in a open area. if it does then track from center console to steering column, the harness will be built back assward,

STEP 2

If it doesnt return to park just turn key to ON not crank, and tap starter solenoid, when it does start try to turn it off with key,If it will not you know that it wlll be between ignition switch wiring to dist, only thing to keep car running would be the 12 volts to the dist, if you have a msd box disconnect it and hook up the factory 12 volt source to dist also and try step 2 again.

STEP 3

If it still wont turn off with key on, look at old harness compared to new one where it plugs into fuse box,

they may have made harness wrong and installed wrong male plugs between IGN, ACC, OR BAT


If you have a electric choke use testlight/multimeter and see if there is power there 100% of the time, should only be power with key on,

Hope this will help a little bit,

lowe

Interesting you mention IGN, ACC, And BAT. I have focused some time working on those plugs. Of the four plugs, the top two are hot all the time and the bottom two are only hot when I turn the key to run. Do you know if that is correct?


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