Dash wire harness in my 1977 corvette?
#1
Dash wire harness in my 1977 corvette?
I put a new LL dash wire harness in my 1977 corvette. It went in fairly easy. It really only goes in one way and the plugs are easy to track. However, there is a big problem and I can not seem to figure it out. The system is hot like you were to turn the key to run. The ignition is hot, gauges, everything that is on when the key is in the run position. I unplugged the ignition switch, both plugs, and the system is still hot. I am at a loss, any idea what might be the problem. Could it be the wrong harness? Thanks!
#3
I called LL. and was told the the problem is that the car must be altered. The car has not been altered. He would not believe me. I asked several times how I can check to tell if I have the correct one. Would not say anything except that the car must be altered.
#4
I think you may have a ground and a hot wire miss-connected. possibly, and are juicing everything when it should be ign. switched hot, could you take some pic's of your hookups, and post them?
#5
Racer
i would look into where power comes in at the fuse box, something is tapped or plugged in wrong spot
http://www.nrjvette.com/johdotukset/...tte%201977.pdf
here ya go,
lowe
http://www.nrjvette.com/johdotukset/...tte%201977.pdf
here ya go,
lowe
Last edited by lowes-yellow77; 08-23-2012 at 07:30 PM. Reason: help
#8
i would look into where power comes in at the fuse box, something is tapped or plugged in wrong spot
http://www.nrjvette.com/johdotukset/...tte%201977.pdf
here ya go,
lowe
http://www.nrjvette.com/johdotukset/...tte%201977.pdf
here ya go,
lowe
#9
Racer
hmm
Thank You for the post! I have two sets of laminated schematics. One from DocRebuild's (that is GREAT) and a colored set that is similar to the ones provided. I will keep working at it and hope I can track where there is a bad connection. If not I think I will have to put the old one back in and see if it work. THANKS again!!
I really didnt really understand your post if your wires are hot at all times i would think it would be in the headlight wiring or the lights when you open the door they should be hot at all times or clock and cigarette lighter
lowe
#10
The problem is in the new wire harness, i think, either the hook up or the construction of it. I wish I could rule out that it is the correct harness. I could not get the guy from LL to tell me how or if there is a way to identify the harness as the correct one. He was hung up on my car being customized, and it is not. The harness really only goes one way. The plugs are all unique and can only be plugged where they should go. Plus I marked every wire and am very comfortable with that part of the installation. The plastic bag the harness came in was marked with the year and make of the car. But was the correct harness put in the bag. I guess I am down to pulling the new harness out and putting the old one in. That will tell me if it is the harness, I hope. What a pain in the NECK. I have read several posts about the great customer service from LL, I mush have called on the wrong day and talked to the wrong guy.
I know it is difficult at best to try to help with out seeing the problem. I am not sure what to take a pic of that might help.
Thank you all very much.
Last edited by KcMike; 08-24-2012 at 08:49 AM.
#14
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Lectric Limited has a good reputation for turning out a quality product. I would be very surprised if they stated a 77 would have to be "altered" to use their harness. Doesn't sound like them.
My advice would be to call back and see if you can get to the bottom of what is actually going on.
My advice would be to call back and see if you can get to the bottom of what is actually going on.
#15
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...RY2TCsPUtiTKfg
hope this helps, says they 'do' warrentee their parts
hope this helps, says they 'do' warrentee their parts
#16
Racer
hmmm, now that I`ve had my coffee and a little awake
STEP 1
try putting car in reverse or drive anything but park or neutral and see if it will crank please chock the wheels or apply brake in a open area. if it does then track from center console to steering column, the harness will be built back assward,
STEP 2
If it doesnt return to park just turn key to ON not crank, and tap starter solenoid, when it does start try to turn it off with key,If it will not you know that it wlll be between ignition switch wiring to dist, only thing to keep car running would be the 12 volts to the dist, if you have a msd box disconnect it and hook up the factory 12 volt source to dist also and try step 2 again.
STEP 3
If it still wont turn off with key on, look at old harness compared to new one where it plugs into fuse box,
they may have made harness wrong and installed wrong male plugs between IGN, ACC, OR BAT
If you have a electric choke use testlight/multimeter and see if there is power there 100% of the time, should only be power with key on,
Hope this will help a little bit,
lowe
STEP 1
try putting car in reverse or drive anything but park or neutral and see if it will crank please chock the wheels or apply brake in a open area. if it does then track from center console to steering column, the harness will be built back assward,
STEP 2
If it doesnt return to park just turn key to ON not crank, and tap starter solenoid, when it does start try to turn it off with key,If it will not you know that it wlll be between ignition switch wiring to dist, only thing to keep car running would be the 12 volts to the dist, if you have a msd box disconnect it and hook up the factory 12 volt source to dist also and try step 2 again.
STEP 3
If it still wont turn off with key on, look at old harness compared to new one where it plugs into fuse box,
they may have made harness wrong and installed wrong male plugs between IGN, ACC, OR BAT
If you have a electric choke use testlight/multimeter and see if there is power there 100% of the time, should only be power with key on,
Hope this will help a little bit,
lowe
Last edited by lowes-yellow77; 08-24-2012 at 12:27 PM. Reason: photo
#18
Melting Slicks
I think LL is saying his car is altered, not the harness altered. I think you have something plugged in wrong, maybe on a large connector, you are off a lug to make things operate crazy. Check all connections where there is more than wire feeding in. Sometimes things just get plugged in wrong. I have never had any problems with LL or their products.
To the OP, you say your car is not altered, nothing but stock motor and everything, no aftermarket amps or anything altered under the hood?
To the OP, you say your car is not altered, nothing but stock motor and everything, no aftermarket amps or anything altered under the hood?
Last edited by lvmyvt76; 08-24-2012 at 11:49 AM.
#19
#20
hmmm, now that I`ve had my coffee and a little awake
STEP 1
try putting car in reverse or drive anything but park or neutral and see if it will crank please chock the wheels or apply brake in a open area. if it does then track from center console to steering column, the harness will be built back assward,
STEP 2
If it doesnt return to park just turn key to ON not crank, and tap starter solenoid, when it does start try to turn it off with key,If it will not you know that it wlll be between ignition switch wiring to dist, only thing to keep car running would be the 12 volts to the dist, if you have a msd box disconnect it and hook up the factory 12 volt source to dist also and try step 2 again.
STEP 3
If it still wont turn off with key on, look at old harness compared to new one where it plugs into fuse box,
they may have made harness wrong and installed wrong male plugs between IGN, ACC, OR BAT
If you have a electric choke use testlight/multimeter and see if there is power there 100% of the time, should only be power with key on,
Hope this will help a little bit,
lowe
STEP 1
try putting car in reverse or drive anything but park or neutral and see if it will crank please chock the wheels or apply brake in a open area. if it does then track from center console to steering column, the harness will be built back assward,
STEP 2
If it doesnt return to park just turn key to ON not crank, and tap starter solenoid, when it does start try to turn it off with key,If it will not you know that it wlll be between ignition switch wiring to dist, only thing to keep car running would be the 12 volts to the dist, if you have a msd box disconnect it and hook up the factory 12 volt source to dist also and try step 2 again.
STEP 3
If it still wont turn off with key on, look at old harness compared to new one where it plugs into fuse box,
they may have made harness wrong and installed wrong male plugs between IGN, ACC, OR BAT
If you have a electric choke use testlight/multimeter and see if there is power there 100% of the time, should only be power with key on,
Hope this will help a little bit,
lowe
Interesting you mention IGN, ACC, And BAT. I have focused some time working on those plugs. Of the four plugs, the top two are hot all the time and the bottom two are only hot when I turn the key to run. Do you know if that is correct?