Trailing Arm Removal Threads Where are they?
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,054
Likes: 715
From: San Antonio Texas
Trailing Arm Removal Threads Where are they?
I am currently contemplating whether I want to tackle this. I used the search engine on this forum, but couldn't readily find a thread describing the process.
I will not have the body off the frame, and mine look very rusty/frozen. And yes, I do have a Sawzall.....
As Always, Thanks for the help, Lee
I will not have the body off the frame, and mine look very rusty/frozen. And yes, I do have a Sawzall.....
As Always, Thanks for the help, Lee
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,095
Likes: 299
From: Midlothian VA
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,714
Likes: 42
From: Austin Texas
Try the advanced search feature and search for "rusted trailing arm bolt" then select the C3 tech performance forum.
I just did this recently and it can be a drag depending on how solid everything is rusted up. The process is basically, pull the wheel, remove caliper and cap line on both ends if possible. You might use a wood block to hold the brake pistons in place.
Next, try to remove the castle nut on the trailing arm bolt. If things are nice and rusty that will probably come off with out a problem. Now the fun part, the shims will rust to each other and to the sides of the pocket. Both the shims and the bushing sleeve can rust on to the bolt as well.
I was able to remove one bolt by soaking everything in penetrating oil, for days, and then using a punch and sledge hammer to tap the shims up and down over and over to work them loose. I tried using a pickle fork to get things to free up but ended up cutting the other side with the sawsall.
Its a hard, dirty job and for maintenance! Days of work and not one horse power to be had.
Good luck, hope it slides right out for you.
I just did this recently and it can be a drag depending on how solid everything is rusted up. The process is basically, pull the wheel, remove caliper and cap line on both ends if possible. You might use a wood block to hold the brake pistons in place.
Next, try to remove the castle nut on the trailing arm bolt. If things are nice and rusty that will probably come off with out a problem. Now the fun part, the shims will rust to each other and to the sides of the pocket. Both the shims and the bushing sleeve can rust on to the bolt as well.
I was able to remove one bolt by soaking everything in penetrating oil, for days, and then using a punch and sledge hammer to tap the shims up and down over and over to work them loose. I tried using a pickle fork to get things to free up but ended up cutting the other side with the sawsall.
Its a hard, dirty job and for maintenance! Days of work and not one horse power to be had.
Good luck, hope it slides right out for you.
