TedH

I'm gonna do it. Placing the order this weekend so don't bother talking me out of it:

Comp XE Retro Roller 'K' kit: K12-422-8
Fel-1094 head gasket set
Fel-1205 intake gasket set
Fel cork valve cover gaskets
Ultra Pro Magnum Roller Rockers
ARP head bolt kit
intake parts organizer tray

The 'k' kit is a 'middle of the page' kit and suits my needs for the car. Advertised duration is in the neighborhood of my Energizer but with about .05" more max lift (.495/.502 vs my .454/.454) and better breathing with the rollers. And, I'll be done with all of the zinc/no zinc issues with current oils. It will allow me to keep my q-jet and dizzy with some light tuning/adjustment.

My first questions as I wait for the parts:

1. Any 'gotcha's' to avoid?
2. Can I use my stock timing cover?
3. Will the nylon cam button in the kit be all I need to place between my stock cover and the cam gear to keep it from 'walking' out of the block?

I will have my DART Iron Eagle 180cc heads resurfaced, cleaned and the valves/guides checked before the new hardware (double springs, keepers, locks, seals) are installed on the heads. I have single 1.25" springs and the heads accommodate the larger double springs as-machined.

The alternative plunge was an all-new engine delivered for about $3,500. But, I lack the machinery, space and ability to pull the engine/trans and drop new in place. This way, I can work on the engine in-car and I reuse 90% of the engine hard parts (short block, cylinder heads, intake, carb, dizzy, ram air system). I had the engine rebuilt in 1999 and that rebuild has fewer than 10K miles. This will be a very NICE refresh and I'll get a bump in performance over my current 224rwhp/289rwtq.

Budget is around $2,000 parts and the labor for the rework/setup of the cylinder heads. I will perform all removal/install of the top end pieces.

bluedawg

I think you can but if i recall correctly i beleave you need to weld a washer in place to strengthen the timing cover were the cam button rubs. They also make a roller cam button thats not much more. You think much about getting the heads ported while youre at it?

TedH

The DART heads flow well as-cast. I have budgeted a resurface, clean and for the new hardware to be installed by a professional tuner in my $2,000 budget. I will perform the removal and install on the engine.

I am going to see about having the tuner put the roller cam into the front of the block. I don't think I can handle it with just my two hands.

Thanks for the info on welding the shim on the timing cover. Will be sure to have that taken care of.

garygnu

is there a thicker timing cover that won't flex as much ?maybe have some small metal strips welded the right way to stiffen the timing cover .

Doug1

why would we try and talk you out of making your ride faster? we are all about more speed here....

zwede

May want to consider this:



http://www.summitracing.com/parts/clo-9-221/overview/

I have one on my big-block and it's a nice piece. Makes adjusting the cam play a snap.

iokepakai

Finally got all my parts for my roller cam swap.Hope to start it next week.That Comp- Cam your looking at isn't a billet core with iron dist gear.Since your going thru all that trouble to install a roller set up,may as well go with a billet cam and iron dist gear to eliminate future problems.I think Comp Cams can grind you one at extra cost of course.You will need a different fuel pump pushrod,recommend the polymer rod from Howards Cams.I'm also going to use the Cloyes 9-221 timing cover with built in adj cam button,along with a Jegs timing gear set with bronze thrust washer http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...roductId=.Read that the Cloyes cover may require a little grinding and or button head bolts on the Corvette short style water pump.
I will be using the 1094 head gaskets also.I was told to clean the surfaces squeaky clean and not to use any sealant with those gaskets.Sealant can cause the head to actually float on the gaskets and lead to leaks due to the rubberized coating.Also using the 1205 intake gaskets,had no problem with those gaskets in the past.Used the Right Stuff sealant on the china walls and water ports with great results.Recommend a one piece oil pan gasket and I like the rubber valve cover gaskets with steel core,there reusable.
Cam I'm going to use is a Crane Cam 119821,billet core pressed on dist gear.Mild mid range cam for street use,hopefully it works well with the Edelbrock performer heads.Pretty close in specs to your cam choice..Good luck with the project post up the results!!...That's the timing cover above but for a small block....

bluedawg

There is if you do a search there are several. I went with a billet aluminum two piece, pretty much the only two piece aluminum that comp builds & recommends for a roller. Spendy though and there are less expensive ones out there that just as effective.

surfertom

you are going to need new push rods. comp makes an adjustable one to set the geometry of the valve train. it has to be perfect.

speedreed8

i used this one with my retro roller, worked fine for 2 yrs. now. its reinforced where the button hits.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ctr-21-900/overview/

gkull

Can i talk you out of one thing? Cork valve cover gaskets Get the blue with metal incerts. You can use them for years with many removals of the valve covers. Oh, the valve covers have to be more rigged than stock.

TedH

The K12-422-8 kit that I purchased includes the new push rods for the retrofit.

I didn't know about the need to replace the:

distributor drive gear
fuel pump push rod
timing cover.

With the new aluminum cover from Comp, will I still need to weld washer on inside of that removable circle or will it accommodate without changes?

I am staying with the non-billet cam kit (K12-422-8). With that said, what comp fuel pump pushrod and distributor gear must I purchase?

Can I reuse my non-roller cam bearings? They are either Clevite or Michigan 77 bearings with approx 10K miles since rebuild in 1999.

Many thanks for all of the feedback.

All parts on my list as of Friday are ordered. Atlantic Speed (eBay) had the cam kit and rocker set for $30 savings off of Summit prices and I bought the complete Fel-Pro top end gasket set (HS 7733 PT-2) and a fresh set of ARP hex cylinder head bolts (ARP 134-3601) from reputable sellers on eBay for savings also. I am using a fresh set of FEL-1205 intake gaskets that are hanging on a hook in my garage. They are the recommended intake gasket for the Edelbrock #3701 intake that I will reuse.

I plan to engage a local machine shop for resurface (not decking), stripping/cleaning and verifying/fixing any issues with DART heads valve guides. If I decide not to perform myself (I have a spring compressor for cylinder heads) I will have a local tuner install the new K Kit parts on the cylinder heads.

I am performing all removal/install and cam install. However, I may ask tuner for 2nd pair of hands with cam install (I have the cam install handle).

TedH

I think I've found the (Summit) part numbers for:

fuel pump pushrod (bronze tip): CCA-4607

Dizzy gear (Comp part number): 12200

I re-read the Comp site. 12200 is the recommended dizzy gear. Pricey at $114. Looks like I need to add $250 to the price of this refresh:

Canton timing cover: $25
Fel-Pro Timing Cover Gasket set (includes water pump gaskets): $9
Comp composite Drive gear: $114
Comp Bronze tip roller cam fuel pump pushrod: $14
Name brand crank damper

Oh, and going to go with a new crank damper as I had to clean up the threads on one of the three crank pulley mounting holes on last rebuild (cheap aftermarket damper).

Ka'ching$$$

Doug1

interesting

TedH

Shims required? The K Kit I am getting has the nylon cam button.

TedH

I'll consider. the valve covers I have are pretty close to stock height.

I do have the taller stamped/chrome covers from a prior project that I may use if rocker/stud clearance is an issue with the Comp roller rockers.

QUESTION: Should I be concerned with the Comp Ultra Pro Magnum rocker/stud clearance on stock height stamped/chromed valve covers?

TedH

Here's what I'm adding to the list. The damper is OEM, 6.75" summit damper. I'm not planning to spin the engine over 4500-5000rpm except on the occasional spirited off-road driving. No intention of racing in 1/4 mile. If that day ever came, I would get SFI damper.

Canton Racing Timing Cover, 21-900: $25
Fel-Pro Timing Cover Gasket Set FEL-TCS45121: $9
Com Composite Distributor Gear CCA-12200: $114
Comp Bronze Tip Roller Cam Fuel Pump Pushrod CCA-4607: $14
Summit OEM Harmonic Damper SUM-161350: $55

I ordered the cam tool separately. Looks like my budget is more like $2,200 including prof services.

zwede

You should not have to replace it. Any modern h-roller should have a pressed on iron drive gear which is compatible with the stock distributor driven gear.

Yes, you need a new one. Or this would be the perfect time to go electric...

Optional. A stock (GM) cover is usually stiff enough. Chinese chrome covers are not.

No, no changes needed.

Yes.

TedH

Thanks! I think that answers the major questions for now. Once I dig into the removal/install, I start a new thread with play-by-play and pictures. Time to make room in the garage for the project!!!

63mako

You have aftermarket heads, likely +.100 valves, likely the pushrods in the kit won't work. That said check for correct length and they will likely exchange them.