Basecar82

All of a sudden I have a problem with the 82 not idling. If you let completely up on the gas pedal rpms go to around 400 then dies. Taking the air cleaner off I see the right (passenger side) injector has fuel running down 5 plus times more than the left one. Looking for help and thoughts here. I replaced the fuel pump about 200 miles prior seemed to run well. After sitting for about two weeks was really hard to start and it appeared to be running rich. Haven't had time yet to review all the info on the injectors.

ESU

May be time to rebuild the towers? Have you done that yet? Its not that difficult a job just a few O-rings and washers, they get worn and weakened over the years. The kit is like 15 bux.

bsblguy

I just bought a low miles collector edition and after reading all the info on here I was wondering if there is a way for me to tell if the fuel pump and chip have been upgraded or not. I want this car to be reliable as possible as I live out in the sticks and plan on going to car shows and cruise notes with it. The car won't be delivered until next week so I can't check anything out yet. Already ordered shop manual and fuel injection manual. Thanks. This is a great forum.

Drawmain

The only way to check the chip is to physically remove the ECM and look at the chip. If it's a Hypertech, it will say so on the chip. As far as the fuel pump, I wouldn't worry about it. You could check pressure between the TB's but that won't tell you anything about the pump, just the pressure, and no need pulling the pump until you need to. Just roll with it

ESU

Curious why you think the chip might have been changed on a low mileage collector? The 82 computer is pretty basic and I don't believe much was to be gained by a new chip? As for the fuel pump no real way to tell if its been changed and while yes the 85 pump is better probably only if your going to be able to read the pressure and adjust it which requires a special tool no longer available. Worry about the pump when it goes as Drawmain says.

bsblguy

I thought I read that the Hypertech chip changes transmission shift points and lock up of the converter to make the car better driving. Am I wrong there?

Drawmain

The chip changes the lock up points of the converter, but the shift points are not affected as they are controlled by the TV cable.

ESU

Not a tranny guy so can you explain just what changing the lock up points does for me as far as driving?

Lakeside49

Small correction - you do not remove the ECM to replace the chip. There is an ECM chip access panel that opens with a small screw. You do have to remove the car's battery to access it, however.

If anyone has removed an ECM, I would be interested in how you do it. The AIM manual and shop manual do not explain/show it. It doesn't look easy. The very first bolt I tried to turn with my socket wrench turned in it's place, implying that there is a nut on the undercarriage of the vehicle instead of a sheetmetal screw. What the heck were they thinking.

Drawmain

The aftermarket chips change the MPH at which the lock up converter locks. It keeps the engine from lugging at low mph. I don't have a Hypertech, but others here do, I think the lock up is changed to 45 mph and above.

Drawmain

I took mine out. Two screws are underneath the carpet behind the driver's seat. Two screw into nuts pushed into the body below the battery. The are what I think are called speed nuts. Not easy to remove, but not really hard either. I took mine out to swap to an aftermarket tunable ECM.

Basecar82

Took out the towers had them checked, they were good. Replaced the o rings and then had to replace the gaskets (they became brittle after being dry for several days). That cured the problem, the leak in one may have been the o ring or the gasket. Thanks, ESU for your info.

bsblguy

Was driving today and engine died right after turning a corner. After having it towed home and looked in gas tank it looked empty even though gauge said 1/4 tank. put in 7 gals. of fuel, still no start. Acts like not getting fuel. Looking through my book to see where to check voltage to the pump I saw the 20A fuse by the battery. Checked with my meter and fuse is open. Actually the fuse was not open but holder melted and terminal on fuse broke off. I noticed when I first got the car and looking it over that this fuse was very hot to the touch. I will pick up a new fuse holder. Any idea why the fuse holder gets so hot? My Fluke meter will only read up to 10 amps so I can't check current draw. At least I was close to home.

bsblguy

Replaced fuse holder and this one does not get warm. I think the other one had a bad connection as the fuse did not look like it was in correctly and got hot accordingly.

shok

I could be way off base here but I will throw it out there just in case. Back in the 90s I had a friend with an 82 Camaro with Crossfire that would only randomly run, there was a main plug for the steering column that sent power out to the pump and it was hot and distorted/melted. MIGHT be worth checking if you have a similar plug and see if it's in okay condition to head off any future failures.

bsblguy

I will look into that thanks.

Aldo_45030

Has anyone experienced this? i have balanced and reset tps idle 2X so far and it definitely runs better but still has the issue at times . hot or cold make no difference

ESU

You're welcome, glad it worked out.

dseales

I need some help with my 1982 Crossfire.My check engine light came on a couple of days before but I didn't get a chance to pull the codes. The day before it died but restarted. Then it died and would not start. I changed out the distributor to a MSD distributor as before when it would not start I could wiggle the wires going to the module and it would start. I jumped the wires 1 and 3 and 2 and 4 to bypass the spark control. I am getting no fuel from the injectors. I have power to the injectors, but when I check them with a noid light it does not light. the fuses are good to the injectors, to the computer, the 20 amp fuse by the battery. The ECM has been changed out looks like quite awhile ago. It has at least 10 psi where the fuel comes in the front throttle body. It will start if you spray carb cleaner in it. The ground to the ECM is good. I am at a loss as to what to check next.Today I checked the oil pressure switch and the fuel pump relay. I'm thinking it might be the ECM.

Lakeside49

You need to pull the codes from the ECM. A defective ECM (they seldom fail) is a code 53. You need to always start with this or you'll start throwing parts at it.