RJohn

no codes tps set .560 +- havent put the timing light on her though just been giving a lil twist by ear idles up and down now on its own idles faster and smoother with the iac's un plugged will also do that with the map un plugged

jdp6000

Keep in mind the IAC's may need resetting after being unplug. To reset you need to drive that car for a mile or two at 35 mph. You'll know if they are not set, while idling hit the throttle and look down the openings on the TBI's in front of booth IAC's and see if the pins are moving.

Its odd that it would idle faster and smoother with the IAC's unplugged. All you did is prevent the pins from moving. The stayed at the spot they were at when you unplugged them. I guess that suggests that where ever they were when you unplugged them is what the engine liked at some temp or idle point.

When you unplug the MAP you should get an engine code.

Is the ECM working? If its not nothing you do will make a permanent difference.

Don't monkey around with any off the setting on the TBI's or linkage. They are factory set and usually never the problem. Find the problem, sensor, vac leak or ECM. Sounds like your fuel pump is working fine.

RJohn

Thanks for the help. Previous owner had messed with tbi settings ugh not sure if ecm is working. Gets good spray from tb how can I check ecm? Thanks again

RJohn

Can't find my timing light. Ugh. So did compression test found getting 160 +- so that's awesome:-)

RJohn

I just don't want to give up car is too nice. It's just frustrating gotta get plates and insurance and get her on the road

jdp6000

When you turn the key to on does the engine light come on? When you start the car does the engine light go off and stay off?

You say no codes. Did you check for codes?

How much messing around with the TBI's? Can you post some pictures?

RJohn

Yeah we put code reader on it had map sensor code cleared it ran it no more codes light is on for a sec when starting then shuts off I will try to get pics up I have a few on my phone now I can send them to an e mail thank you all again for your patience and all the help thus far

Arkyvette

Did you replace the map sensor? They are pretty important in this system and can cause mayhem. Something made it trip a code before......

RJohn

True I'll throw one at it along with a new egr also

74 LS4-454

on the u-joint issues for our 82's. Added some new part #'s from post's in the thread from another member and from what I ended up having to use for the driveshaft joint replacement at this time.
Again, anyone finding any info or other sources, just post and I will add, as the U-Joint saga continues........
And the 82 does use different u-joints for both the halfshaft and driveshaft.....

74 LS4-454

added more info regarding dimensions for both the halfshaft and driveshaft u-joints for our 82's.....there is a difference.....

KY_BOB

I'm asking this question out of curiosity only but knowing that my motor will need to be freshened up fairly soon. Does anyone have the stock cam specs? Also how well does the computer handle a very slightly more aggressive cam? I know that the speed density style computers of that time, didn't like a lot more cam than factory, short of a full blown tune. The MAF motors that came along later are much more forgiving.

74 LS4-454

You just may find the info you are looking for in the "sticky" under "I" in the WEB SITES section, regarding the stock cam specs.
I don"t think you would have a problem with the ECM using a "slightly more aggresive cam", but do a search in the Tech section and you will find info from what other 82 owners have used when choosing a new cam for the CFI.............Tom

keithdruck

Thanks for all the great info all in one place! I just joined the forum today and stumbled accross your "Sticky". Just bought an 82 a few weeks ago and am now just starting to look into minor mods that I can do to make it more driveable. I am going to start with the hypertch chip and see if that improves shifting smoothness. Thanks again, and keep the updates coming.

74 LS4-454

thanks for the kind words, as the "sticky" has had the input of mostly all of the 82 owners here and then some....
I just thought that it would help us if there was a thread that we could reference to, concerning all of the info available for the 82, whether it be general or technical in content.
The info provided in the "sticky" as been obtained from the experiences and expertise that the 82 owners have supplied through their vast knowledge of the CFI system, and from other forms of materials compiled throught various web sites that contribute to the preservation of the
1982 Model Year.

So tell us about your 82, we would enjoy the info and seeing some pics....congrats on your purchase........

I have some updates scheduled soon, but have been busy with both some items on the
82 and working on rebuilding the front suspension on the 74. So they will occur sometime in the future...............Tom

KY_BOB

Thanks to you guys, I have ordered a new '82 sending unit and strainer along with a 85 pump.

Next questions, the tank is varnished and rusted. Do I have it professionally cleaned or buy a new one for $250?

The exhaust has to come off to drop the tank, is there any downside to gutting the Cat while it easily accessible? I live in a state that does not test emissions. At 115k, I figure the cat is not in the best shape. I'm thinking that I should eliminate a problem before it happens. It will still look stock but with no guts in the cat and the only O2 sensor is before the cat so it shouldn't effect the tuning. Right?

scorpion18z

I would like some input on that O2 sensor also. I have had my cat gutted for several years now, but was wondering if replacing the O2 would have any effect on anything? I have no problems with idle, cruising and only some surge at idle with A/C on.

74 LS4-454

Great!!! glad the "sticky" is beneficial for you....
Depending on how rusted your tank is would determine if you need a replacement or not. There have been several members that have cleaned out their tanks with great success. Do a search in the "tech" section for the correct procedure. Or start another thread with that question....
To my knowledge, there is no downside to gutting the converter. Just make sure you leave the 02 in place as you are doing, for it is still needed for the ECM to correctly operate.
My 82 has true dual exhaust with an X-pipe and no converter, with the 02 sensor still intack. Runs great, no problems at all...



The above response has the reply you are looking for about the 02 sensor. I don't think that replacing the 02 sensor is going to have a negative effect on anything, rather it would have a positive effect. If you are running fine, then just leave as is, unless it is the original and you are taking PM (Preventative Maintenance) measures on your 82.
I would imagine your AC surge would have to do with your idle setting.

On a side note, I have noticed a more stable idle with the AC on, since I have switched to the NAPA Brand ALT & AC belts. They are just better made and don't appear to stretch like the previous belts that were on there. Where before the engine idle would fluctuate at a stop with the AC on, now it doesn't....and that is a good thing.....

Again, I know I have mentioned this in other threads, but here it goes again....
If you are changing out the ALT & AC belts, I have found it better to go with a belt that is a 1/2" shorter in length for both belts. While being a PIA to install, because you need to undo the ALT to get it over the pulley and remove some of the A.I.R. items to move your AC compressor as close to the block as possible to get the belt on, and you still need a screw driver or other type of pry bar to get the belt on.....it is well worth it IMO. You get a much better tension setting on the belts and if they do stretch, there is enough room to make a proper adjustment.
I will add this info to the "sticky" with part #'s in case anyone misses it here...Tom

vetteguy22

My son has decided to sell his 1982 vette. Moving on in a different direction with his life. Thought this would be a good place to ask what might be a good realistic price for him to ask. It runs very well. It could use some cosmetic upgrades, paint, carpet, some interior trim, etc. It has been very reliable. He drove it though 3 years of high school and all of collage with many trips form Arizona to California from school and back. Never worried about break downs. Any input would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Rob

shok

Pics would help the guesstimating. If the timing was a little better I would probably try to check it out for myself.