Looking to dot the i's and cross the t's on an engine refresh
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Looking to dot the i's and cross the t's on an engine refresh
Folks,
I'm getting ready to do a quick refresh on my motor (which was refreshed 3K miles ago, I just want more power and I have a few questions on the benefit of some of the smaller things that I have heard people do during engine building.
Engine is a 350 with forged internals, lightweight probe pistons and 15lb flywheel. CR of 10:1 with the AFR 195 heads that will be going on. Edelbrock Performer RPM manifold, Comp 280 Magnum retro roller, 1 7/8 headers into dual 2.5" mandrel bent exhaust with X-pipe. Should rev nicely into the 6K+ range.
I'm putting a lot into the build and want to make sure I do it right.
I'd like to hear folks opinions on the following items and if there would be benefit:
Lifter Valley Baffle to keep oil splash from hitting the underside of the Intake. Also, would I have to enlarge the lifter holes to accommodate the roller lifters? I keep seeing that they are not compatible with solid rollers, but nothing on hydraulic rollers.
Glyptol - I have seen this used to coat the lifter valley and also on the floor of the valve area of the heads. This is a bit old school, but are people still doing it? Also, does it have an issue sticking to Aluminum heads?
Crank Scraper - Just came across this one. My motor has a windage tray, but it would seem that if you could reduce the oil cloud around the crank, that's energy you get back. Worth it at my level?
Yes, I realize I should be looking at port matching as well, and I am, but wanted to ask about these items first.
Any other minor things that I should be looking to do?
Thanks in Advance
I'm getting ready to do a quick refresh on my motor (which was refreshed 3K miles ago, I just want more power and I have a few questions on the benefit of some of the smaller things that I have heard people do during engine building.
Engine is a 350 with forged internals, lightweight probe pistons and 15lb flywheel. CR of 10:1 with the AFR 195 heads that will be going on. Edelbrock Performer RPM manifold, Comp 280 Magnum retro roller, 1 7/8 headers into dual 2.5" mandrel bent exhaust with X-pipe. Should rev nicely into the 6K+ range.
I'm putting a lot into the build and want to make sure I do it right.
I'd like to hear folks opinions on the following items and if there would be benefit:
Lifter Valley Baffle to keep oil splash from hitting the underside of the Intake. Also, would I have to enlarge the lifter holes to accommodate the roller lifters? I keep seeing that they are not compatible with solid rollers, but nothing on hydraulic rollers.
Glyptol - I have seen this used to coat the lifter valley and also on the floor of the valve area of the heads. This is a bit old school, but are people still doing it? Also, does it have an issue sticking to Aluminum heads?
Crank Scraper - Just came across this one. My motor has a windage tray, but it would seem that if you could reduce the oil cloud around the crank, that's energy you get back. Worth it at my level?
Yes, I realize I should be looking at port matching as well, and I am, but wanted to ask about these items first.
Any other minor things that I should be looking to do?
Thanks in Advance
Last edited by SLVRSHRK; 03-05-2013 at 11:32 AM.
#2
Le Mans Master
Sounds like you got it pretty well thought out. Should be a fun engine.
My Howards hydraulic retro roller lifter fit in the stock lifter bores perfectly no need to enlarge.
Every little detail that contributes to a more effecient engine is worth dong if cost vs benefit is good. Id say the cranks scraper falls into this category. I put one on mine. It's cheap and maybe worth 4 hp or more. Took about 1.5 hours of grinding and checking to get it to fit. Wasn't hard, so I would say it was worth it. It may be useful in keeping more oil in the pan for the pump vs getting entrained in the crank.
Also, would I have to enlarge the lifter holes to accommodate the roller lifters? I keep seeing that they are not compatible with solid rollers, but nothing on hydraulic rollers.
Crank Scraper - Just came across this one. My motor has a windage tray, but it would seem that if you could reduce the oil cloud around the crank, that's energy you get back. Worth it at my level?
#3
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
#4
Le Mans Master
Yes, I know the roller lifters will fit in the bores, I was wondering if I would need to enlarge the holes in the splash guard to accommodate them.
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
http://www.milodon.com/oil-system/pa...ter-baffle.asp
#6
Le Mans Master
Thanks. I see what you mean about fitting solid rollers, I guess a guy could give them a call and ask.
#7
Melting Slicks
The Glyptal thing has always fascinated me. I've never done it because I never wanted to run the risk of paint chips coming off and getting sucked into the oiling system. That's just me though...many other way more experienced engine builders than myself swear by it.
#8
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Yeah, that's my concern as well. I think I have decided against the Glyptol since I will not be disassembling the lower end this time and I'm not sure I could prep the valley to my satisfaction to ensure good adhesion.
#9
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2004
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St. Jude Donor '05
Glyptal is a waste...have done it with no issues dont do it anymore
#10
Le Mans Master
Yes, I know the roller lifters will fit in the bores, I was wondering if I would need to enlarge the holes in the splash guard to accommodate them.
Guess it's back to plan "A" for me. I was just going to make one from sheet metal and attach it to the intake manifold somehow. Have'nt worked out the exact details yet though.
Last edited by REELAV8R; 03-07-2013 at 10:47 AM.
#11
Drifting
If you have nothing better to do,these may add up to a HP or two at WOT in a race motor looking for all the help it can get against a rulebook,but a waste of effort for a street engine IMHO.Spend it on beer instead,and just tell people that you did it.
#12
Le Mans Master
If you have nothing better to do,these may add up to a HP or two at WOT in a race motor looking for all the help it can get against a rulebook,but a waste of effort for a street engine IMHO.Spend it on beer instead,and just tell people that you did it.
#13
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I gave Milodon a call and asked about using hyd roller lifter with the baffle. He says it can't be done and if you enlarge the holes it renders it useless and rattles around in the valley. Tech I spoke with knows of no one who does make one for roller lifters.
Guess it's back to plan "A" for me. I was just going to make one from sheet metal and attach it to the intake manifold somehow. Have'nt worked out the exact details yet though.
Guess it's back to plan "A" for me. I was just going to make one from sheet metal and attach it to the intake manifold somehow. Have'nt worked out the exact details yet though.
#14
Melting Slicks
Methinks you would gain a much greater benefit from a good cold air intake system vs. a lifter valley baffle. There is more to be gained from ingesting cold air in the first place rather than by trying to reduce intake manifold temps by putting an oil shield under it. Pauldana had a thread going for a functional cold air box setup that he produced....it looked pretty decent. It picked up air from the cowl area(the best place). Ohhh...He also mks them for sale!
#16
Instructor
Here's some more old school. An engine that is painted black removes heat from the engine, a good thing (the early Ford 427 and hot 289's had black engine blocks and so did many old drag cars - the Melrose Missle Mopar drag cars in the 1960's come to mind). Anyone with a physics background usually agrees. Any truth?
RB
RB
#17
Le Mans Master
Methinks you would gain a much greater benefit from a good cold air intake system vs. a lifter valley baffle. There is more to be gained from ingesting cold air in the first place rather than by trying to reduce intake manifold temps by putting an oil shield under it. Pauldana had a thread going for a functional cold air box setup that he produced....it looked pretty decent. It picked up air from the cowl area(the best place). Ohhh...He also mks them for sale!
If you look you'll notice that the entire bottom runner on a dual plane manifold is directly exposed to the hot oil in the lifter valley. The performer 2101 intake is aluminum and readily absorbs the heat from the oil. At best this will cause that runner and it's associated cylinders to run differently than the upper runner and it's cylinders. Were talking about a car that only runs during warm weather. Heating the intake charge is not desirable or needed.
[IMG][/IMG]
#18
Le Mans Master
Here's some more old school. An engine that is painted black removes heat from the engine, a good thing (the early Ford 427 and hot 289's had black engine blocks and so did many old drag cars - the Melrose Missle Mopar drag cars in the 1960's come to mind). Anyone with a physics background usually agrees. Any truth?
RB
RB
http://www.avweb.com/news/maint/182886-1.html
http://answers.google.com/answers/th...id/711843.html
It sounds like you sure don't want a polished aluminum or white engine compartment though.
Last edited by REELAV8R; 03-08-2013 at 12:21 PM.
#19
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Methinks you would gain a much greater benefit from a good cold air intake system vs. a lifter valley baffle. There is more to be gained from ingesting cold air in the first place rather than by trying to reduce intake manifold temps by putting an oil shield under it. Pauldana had a thread going for a functional cold air box setup that he produced....it looked pretty decent. It picked up air from the cowl area(the best place). Ohhh...He also mks them for sale!
They are sweet
#20
Instructor
It seems that opinions on that vary.
http://www.avweb.com/news/maint/182886-1.html
http://answers.google.com/answers/th...id/711843.html
It sounds like you sure don't want a polished aluminum or white engine compartment though.
http://www.avweb.com/news/maint/182886-1.html
http://answers.google.com/answers/th...id/711843.html
It sounds like you sure don't want a polished aluminum or white engine compartment though.
RB