Adjust rocker arms
03-10-2013, 01:07 PM
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Adjust rocker arms
Hi,
I adjust like this:
TDC on cylinder 1 (harmonic balancer at mark on block), adjust to zero lash, and then 180 degrees.
But I've seen on youtube:
TDC on cylinder 1, and the to "5 o'clock" on the crank, adjust to zero lash, and then 180 degrees.
What is right?
I adjust like this:
TDC on cylinder 1 (harmonic balancer at mark on block), adjust to zero lash, and then 180 degrees.
But I've seen on youtube:
TDC on cylinder 1, and the to "5 o'clock" on the crank, adjust to zero lash, and then 180 degrees.
What is right?
Last edited by c3_dk; 03-10-2013 at 01:12 PM.
03-10-2013, 04:21 PM
#2
If the engine can be run, try this:
Warm up the engine, and then remove the valve cover on one side.
Place cardboard around the inside perimeter of the head, so that any splashed oil runs back into the engine.
Start it up and let it idle.
Set each valve on that side, one at a time, to zero lash. That means slowly loosen each rocker arm nut until it just begins to clatter, and then tighten it slowly until the clatter stops. You may have to go back and forth a few times until you feel the exact point.
Repeat for each valve on that side.
Shut off the engine.
Tighten each valve on that side to the exact same preload. Typically, 3/4 of a turn. Some engine builders prefer 1/2 or one turn instead. Talk to your engine builder. Man told me once that a smaller preload can extend the safe RPM range slightly, but I don't really know if that's true.
Button it up, and repeat on the other side.
If it's an initial engine build and startup, forget this and just do it as Chevrolet says. Short cuts often mean long delays.
Warm up the engine, and then remove the valve cover on one side.
Place cardboard around the inside perimeter of the head, so that any splashed oil runs back into the engine.
Start it up and let it idle.
Set each valve on that side, one at a time, to zero lash. That means slowly loosen each rocker arm nut until it just begins to clatter, and then tighten it slowly until the clatter stops. You may have to go back and forth a few times until you feel the exact point.
Repeat for each valve on that side.
Shut off the engine.
Tighten each valve on that side to the exact same preload. Typically, 3/4 of a turn. Some engine builders prefer 1/2 or one turn instead. Talk to your engine builder. Man told me once that a smaller preload can extend the safe RPM range slightly, but I don't really know if that's true.
Button it up, and repeat on the other side.
If it's an initial engine build and startup, forget this and just do it as Chevrolet says. Short cuts often mean long delays.
03-10-2013, 05:16 PM
#3
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Sep 2012
Location: coon rapids mn
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to make sure you are on #1, both valves on #1 & #8 will be closed.#6 will be closed ,but #5 will have a valve open,then you are on #1.if you have a chiltons ,you can do some intake and Exhaust valves while on #1.rotate it 1 full turn to the balancer mark, and you can do the remaining valves.most lifter require 1/2 turn after 0 lash.spin the push rod while slowly tightening the rocker arm nut.you can but marks on the base of the distributor to do it 1 cylinder at a time.
03-11-2013, 08:17 PM
#4
Burning Brakes
Everyone makes this procedure sooooo difficult! If you have just rebuilt your engine and haven't run it yet, follow the procedure for adjusting with the engine not running. If your engine runs, or if you've just adjusted a rebuilt engine, then it needs to be readjusted using the engine running method (so things are adjusted with the engine at operating temperature).
Take an old valve cover and cut off the top of it. Then glue (RTV) a gasket to the cover. Next, buy a set of rocker arm oil clips. Now, install the open cover on the head you're going to adjust first, then snap on the oil clips. They keep the hot oil from getting all over you and the engine bay and the open valve cover allows access to everything while directing the hot oil back into the engine . Now just start the engine and let it warm up. Then starting at the front rocker, slowly back off the adjusting nut (counter-clockwise) until the rocker starts to clatter. Then go clock-wise until the clatter just stops and then go another 1/2 turn clock-wise and you're done with that valve. Just do the other 15 and you're done. Some guys go from 1/4 turn past clatter to 3/4 turn. I stop at 1/2 and have never had any problems. Good luck.
Duane
Take an old valve cover and cut off the top of it. Then glue (RTV) a gasket to the cover. Next, buy a set of rocker arm oil clips. Now, install the open cover on the head you're going to adjust first, then snap on the oil clips. They keep the hot oil from getting all over you and the engine bay and the open valve cover allows access to everything while directing the hot oil back into the engine . Now just start the engine and let it warm up. Then starting at the front rocker, slowly back off the adjusting nut (counter-clockwise) until the rocker starts to clatter. Then go clock-wise until the clatter just stops and then go another 1/2 turn clock-wise and you're done with that valve. Just do the other 15 and you're done. Some guys go from 1/4 turn past clatter to 3/4 turn. I stop at 1/2 and have never had any problems. Good luck.
Duane