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I have a '79 with 255/60/15 tires on it. Fender gap is about 2" and I want it down to .5" I've been reading all the threads and the consensus is to use 8" bolts to lower the car but i'm concerned about the bolts shredding the sidewall of the tire. Also it seems that the 8" bolt won't get me the drop i'm looking for as each extra inch of bolt = 50% fender drop? This would lead me to believe that I need 10" bolts and settle around the 9" mark.
I have a spring shop locally that will shorten and redrill the spring for $98. I'm wondering what the pro's cons are of having my spring shortened 2", dearched or replace with a shorter main leaf.
I thought that if I had it dearched then the spring ends would be inside the rim but apparently there isn't room for that on a 15" wheel. Will spring's go bad over time? would I be wasting $100 on shortening this spring?
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Originally Posted by battsup
I have a '79 with 255/60/15 tires on it. Fender gap is about 2" and I want it down to .5" I've been reading all the threads and the consensus is to use 8" bolts to lower the car but i'm concerned about the bolts shredding the sidewall of the tire. Also it seems that the 8" bolt won't get me the drop i'm looking for as each extra inch of bolt = 50% fender drop? This would lead me to believe that I need 10" bolts and settle around the 9" mark.
I have a spring shop locally that will shorten and redrill the spring for $98. I'm wondering what the pro's cons are of having my spring shortened 2", dearched or replace with a shorter main leaf.
I thought that if I had it dearched then the spring ends would be inside the rim but apparently there isn't room for that on a 15" wheel. Will spring's go bad over time? would I be wasting $100 on shortening this spring?
JMO, before I put any money into a steel spring I'd make a call to one of the composite spring manufacturers/dealers and see if they have a low arch version of their springs in stock. It's been my experience that while the composite springs ride nice and generally last a long time (don't sag), the manufacturers just don't have their processes consistent enough to always get the correct arch in the springs. I had to swap my composite spring out (quite a while ago) as the arch amount was inconsistent with the spring rate (ie: a high rate spring should have less static arch as it will compress less when the vehicle weight is set down on it).
Just a suggestion.
That was one of my concerns as well since there are a lot of inconsistencies in ride height for those buying composite springs. The consensus I saw on those were not to buy the TRW spring as it too arched.
I'd go with a composite spring for the smooth ride and weight reduction and buy C4 (yes..C4) 10" bolts to get the height you want. Once set, cut the extra length off. Of course, you want your half shafts close to level when the car is loaded, so that may ultimately affect the wheel arch gap.
St. Jude Donor '05-'06,'11,'13-'14,'16,'18,'19,'24, '25
I've had my spring de-arched to work with the factory bolts. I run 18" wheels so the spring ends are within the wheels. I had the spring worked twice to get the ride height I was looking for.
Chevyman that is good to know. Thanks for the tip Super6, I was looking at the 10" bolts for c4s at vbandp.com I'm surprised no one with a shortened spring has chimed in. Guldstrand sells a 2.5" shorter main leaf for $164 but then I have to get that packed in with the other leaves which would start pushing me towards the price of a composite. I was hoping theskunkworks or Alan would have chimed in
Chevyman that is good to know. Thanks for the tip Super6, I was looking at the 10" bolts for c4s at vbandp.com I'm surprised no one with a shortened spring has chimed in. Guldstrand sells a 2.5" shorter main leaf for $164 but then I have to get that packed in with the other leaves which would start pushing me towards the price of a composite. I was hoping theskunkworks or Alan would have chimed in
If you have a local spring shop, take advantage of them, they are rare these days.
I used the guldstrand shorter spring and reused most of my original leafs (leaves?) with it and the original bolts. The only thing you will need is a new center bolt.
I only did this because no spring shops left around here.
DucatiDon would you happen to have any pics showing tire gap and bolt/tire clearance?
I called VB&P, they recommended going with the 10" bolts and trying those first before going for a spring replacement. Placed an order for 550lb front coils and 10" rear bolts with poly bushings, should be here in 3 weeks or so (10 day delay on 550's right now as they're not in stock right now).