Problem installing new struts
#1
Burning Brakes
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Problem installing new struts
The old struts were bent and the rubber was shot so I ASSUMED it would be an easy job replacing them.
You can see the angle the strut is at. Shouldn't it be straight?
It looks like the top bracket is in backwards to me.
What am I missing here? Shouldn't everything line up and move freely up and down?
The rear of the car is on the jack side.
You can see how far off the alignment of the strut is, a little over 2 inches.
If the top bracket was turned around it would be a lot closer.
Any ideas guys? I would sure like to drive it ASAP.
The weather here is perfect for removing the T-top.
Ralph
You can see the angle the strut is at. Shouldn't it be straight?
It looks like the top bracket is in backwards to me.
What am I missing here? Shouldn't everything line up and move freely up and down?
The rear of the car is on the jack side.
You can see how far off the alignment of the strut is, a little over 2 inches.
If the top bracket was turned around it would be a lot closer.
Any ideas guys? I would sure like to drive it ASAP.
The weather here is perfect for removing the T-top.
Ralph
Last edited by Ralphbf; 03-17-2014 at 05:32 PM.
#2
Melting Slicks
What year is your car? 79 and older had the strut ends in line (the ends were parallel). It would fit either way you installed it. 80 through 82 used an offset strut rod so that there was only one right way to install it.
#3
Safety Car
Is the tire off the ground ?? If so lower the car some or push the tire up
#4
Race Director
FOR what it is worth:
Did you weld the tabs on the bracket under your differential that the strut rods connects to...where those 4 square plates are installed???? They need to be if you rear the instructions. The factory spot welds are not strong enough...and they look like VBandP struts and I know they recommend that you do weld these brackets well.
AS for your fit...you need to raise the trailing arm...a lot....they will go in...I do them quite often.
Also the struts are too short from what I can see...and it does make a difference due to the ends can have a slight angle in them...so it is important that they were ordered correctly for the year model....
DUB
Did you weld the tabs on the bracket under your differential that the strut rods connects to...where those 4 square plates are installed???? They need to be if you rear the instructions. The factory spot welds are not strong enough...and they look like VBandP struts and I know they recommend that you do weld these brackets well.
AS for your fit...you need to raise the trailing arm...a lot....they will go in...I do them quite often.
Also the struts are too short from what I can see...and it does make a difference due to the ends can have a slight angle in them...so it is important that they were ordered correctly for the year model....
DUB
Last edited by DUB; 03-17-2014 at 06:56 PM.
#5
Burning Brakes
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FOR what it is worth:
Did you weld the tabs on the bracket under your differential that the strut rods connects to...where those 4 square plates are installed???? They need to be if you rear the instructions. The factory spot welds are not strong enough...and they look like VBandP struts and I know they recommend that you do weld these brackets well.
AS for your fit...you need to raise the trailing arm...a lot....they will go in...I do them quite often.
Also the struts are too short from what I can see...and it does make a difference due to the ends can have a slight angle in them...so it is important that they were ordered correctly for the year model....
DUB
Did you weld the tabs on the bracket under your differential that the strut rods connects to...where those 4 square plates are installed???? They need to be if you rear the instructions. The factory spot welds are not strong enough...and they look like VBandP struts and I know they recommend that you do weld these brackets well.
AS for your fit...you need to raise the trailing arm...a lot....they will go in...I do them quite often.
Also the struts are too short from what I can see...and it does make a difference due to the ends can have a slight angle in them...so it is important that they were ordered correctly for the year model....
DUB
I did not get instructions with the struts.
I got them on late this evening. Not real happy with how they look.
They look as if they will always be in a bind.
This was a pain in the A$$. I get the alignment tomorrow afternoon and I'll ask Bill what he thinks.
I'll pull out the wire welder in the morning and weld it together, the brackets that is.
Anything else I should know?
Ralph
#6
Melting Slicks
Just make sure the ends are threaded in about the same since they work about like tie rods on the steering. Once you get it all adjusted right and on the ground it will be fine. Before you lock down the lock nuts on either end of the main sleeve, put a drop of Loctite on the threads and then tighten then up to keep the adjustment right on.
#7
Race Director
I know they look like they are in a bind when you have the read end up off the ground...but when it is on the ground...everything lines up as designed.
DUB
DUB
#8
Burning Brakes
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C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
I was under my car today too-noticed the same thing about the struts and bracket. Mine are smart struts but looked like if the center connecting bar was reversed (front to back) they would be better in line with the half shafts.
Here's my problem; no tires on my 69 yet and tried to put my leaf spring back on (after new trailing arms and half shafts). Now the holes in the leaf spring (steel) do not line up with the end bolts. After bolting to differential, the spring sits about 1-1/2 inches too far back and the bolts will not enter the holes---what the---happened???
Here's my problem; no tires on my 69 yet and tried to put my leaf spring back on (after new trailing arms and half shafts). Now the holes in the leaf spring (steel) do not line up with the end bolts. After bolting to differential, the spring sits about 1-1/2 inches too far back and the bolts will not enter the holes---what the---happened???
#9
Nam Labrat
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I (rookie) recently reassembled my '68 rear suspension with the car on jackstands......the leafspring bolts were about 2" off from the mainspring mounting holes.
There was that UHHHH-OHHHH moment.....
Once I began raising the trailing arms to a level position, the bolts began lining-up properly and I was able to finish assembling everything.....with the wheels mounted and the jackstands removed---everything looked normal again.
There was that UHHHH-OHHHH moment.....
Once I began raising the trailing arms to a level position, the bolts began lining-up properly and I was able to finish assembling everything.....with the wheels mounted and the jackstands removed---everything looked normal again.
#10
I (rookie) recently reassembled my '68 rear suspension with the car on jackstands......the leafspring bolts were about 2" off from the mainspring mounting holes.
There was that UHHHH-OHHHH moment.....
Once I began raising the trailing arms to a level position, the bolts began lining-up properly and I was able to finish assembling everything.....with the wheels mounted and the jackstands removed---everything looked normal again.
There was that UHHHH-OHHHH moment.....
Once I began raising the trailing arms to a level position, the bolts began lining-up properly and I was able to finish assembling everything.....with the wheels mounted and the jackstands removed---everything looked normal again.
R
#11
Nam Labrat
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Location: New Orleans Loo-z-anna
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Sorry.....in the panic I didn't get a pic of the bolts "refusing" to drop into the main-spring mounting holes.
I did take a pic of the bolts installed and "cocked" rearward with the trailing arms hanging down...
And a pic of the "leveled" suspension with the weight of the car on the wheels.......
I did take a pic of the bolts installed and "cocked" rearward with the trailing arms hanging down...
And a pic of the "leveled" suspension with the weight of the car on the wheels.......