* Under Carpet Heat and Sound Barrier *
08-05-2013, 02:52 PM
#1
Race Director
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* Under Carpet Heat and Sound Barrier *
I will be installing some new carpet soon and have researched MANY different archived threads on the subject of heat and sound barriers.
I just want to know what you guys have used recently, as well as the past and how it's held up.
I really want to cut down on cabin heat and noise in the most effective way.
Sources for products ie eBay, CorvetteCentral.com etc are appreciated.
Les
I just want to know what you guys have used recently, as well as the past and how it's held up.
I really want to cut down on cabin heat and noise in the most effective way.
Sources for products ie eBay, CorvetteCentral.com etc are appreciated.
Les
08-05-2013, 04:47 PM
#2
Burning Brakes
I laid down hushmat and then Reflectix. Hushmat is available online and Lowes has Reflectix.
Both have made a huge difference. The interior is quieter and the heat is gone. I put two layers of reflectix on the firewall and tranny tunnel. (at the same time I fixed the heater core heat/shut off valve issue)
I can't remember how much it all cost. I used two cases of hushmat and 1 1/2 rolls of reflectix. I used aluminum tape to hold the reflectix down. It has stayed down.
Some guys use templates from cardboard to cut their pieces. That was too much work for something that will be under the carpet. I just laid down the hushmat in sheets and trimmed and laid down more. I put new carpet on top of it all.
The difference in the cabin is amazing. The first year I had the car I hardly drove it due to the excessive heat. Now it is a different car. I did all this work in early 2011.
Good Luck!
Both have made a huge difference. The interior is quieter and the heat is gone. I put two layers of reflectix on the firewall and tranny tunnel. (at the same time I fixed the heater core heat/shut off valve issue)
I can't remember how much it all cost. I used two cases of hushmat and 1 1/2 rolls of reflectix. I used aluminum tape to hold the reflectix down. It has stayed down.
Some guys use templates from cardboard to cut their pieces. That was too much work for something that will be under the carpet. I just laid down the hushmat in sheets and trimmed and laid down more. I put new carpet on top of it all.
The difference in the cabin is amazing. The first year I had the car I hardly drove it due to the excessive heat. Now it is a different car. I did all this work in early 2011.
Good Luck!
08-05-2013, 08:04 PM
#5
Drifting
I bought this stuff because it's extremely light weight. I have no heat issues at all. Applied it with 3M spray adhesive and aluminum tape the seams.
http://www.lobucrod.com/index.html
http://www.lobucrod.com/index.html
08-05-2013, 09:22 PM
#7
Safety Car
I`m right there with you! I just put in 36 square feet of "FatMat". It was $67.00
It covered the floors, tunnel, and lower half of the rear wheel wells.
(If you plan to cover doors and rear storage compartment also, you`ll need more than the 36 square feet.)
Then I started the Reflectix over the top of that.
The reflectix was about $25, and it will cover much more than the mat. I figure I need heat barrier more so than sound.
I put in one piece of carpet on a rear wheel well, it fits very well, looks great! I`m anxious to get the rest of it in now.
It covered the floors, tunnel, and lower half of the rear wheel wells.
(If you plan to cover doors and rear storage compartment also, you`ll need more than the 36 square feet.)
Then I started the Reflectix over the top of that.
The reflectix was about $25, and it will cover much more than the mat. I figure I need heat barrier more so than sound.
I put in one piece of carpet on a rear wheel well, it fits very well, looks great! I`m anxious to get the rest of it in now.
Last edited by oldgto; 08-05-2013 at 09:29 PM.
08-05-2013, 09:25 PM
#8
I went with Rattle Trap (Like Dynamat but thicker and less expensive, ebay) and then Frost King from Lowes on top of that.
Double Frost King on forward footwells and trans tunnel. Double Rattle Trap in the rear compartment.
Two purposes. Dynemat like product for adding density to the fiberglass panels to help stop the panel vibrating and lower sound. Frost King for heat insulation. Either one alone is not going to help with what the other does.
Rattle Trap on doors, outer door skin from inside and under the interior door panel. Doors now nice and solid closing. Replace the anti rattle plastic mushroom shaped pieces on rods while the skin is off.
Do it once and do it right.
50 square feet of each.
Double Frost King on forward footwells and trans tunnel. Double Rattle Trap in the rear compartment.
Two purposes. Dynemat like product for adding density to the fiberglass panels to help stop the panel vibrating and lower sound. Frost King for heat insulation. Either one alone is not going to help with what the other does.
Rattle Trap on doors, outer door skin from inside and under the interior door panel. Doors now nice and solid closing. Replace the anti rattle plastic mushroom shaped pieces on rods while the skin is off.
Do it once and do it right.
50 square feet of each.
Last edited by minitech; 08-05-2013 at 09:33 PM.
08-05-2013, 09:35 PM
#9
Dynamat
I was thinking about installing something like Dynamat to lower the Summer temps inside the cockpit. Owned a 73 coupe and had to drive around in the Summer with the t-tops out and the A/C on to survive.
If you use the molded carpets what thickness of mat works out or does it really matter? I'm assuming the "Dynamat" type products is much thinner than the original jute type backing?
Kevin
If you use the molded carpets what thickness of mat works out or does it really matter? I'm assuming the "Dynamat" type products is much thinner than the original jute type backing?
Kevin
08-05-2013, 09:41 PM
#10
I was thinking about installing something like Dynamat to lower the Summer temps inside the cockpit. Owned a 73 coupe and had to drive around in the Summer with the t-tops out and the A/C on to survive.
If you use the molded carpets what thickness of mat works out or does it really matter? I'm assuming the "Dynamat" type products is much thinner than the original jute type backing?
Kevin
If you use the molded carpets what thickness of mat works out or does it really matter? I'm assuming the "Dynamat" type products is much thinner than the original jute type backing?
Kevin
08-05-2013, 09:46 PM
#11
Safety Car
Dynamat, FatMat, (and similar from Eastwood) seem to be about the same.... 50 to 60 mils (.05 or .06 of an inch).
The reflectix is about the same. It`s like foil covered bubble wrap. I`m using the standard carpet set with jute padding on the back, and don`t expect any installation issues.... based on what I`ve read in SEVERAL threads on the subject that I found on CF.
The reflectix is about the same. It`s like foil covered bubble wrap. I`m using the standard carpet set with jute padding on the back, and don`t expect any installation issues.... based on what I`ve read in SEVERAL threads on the subject that I found on CF.
08-06-2013, 12:27 AM
#12
Le Mans Master
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What I am doing for is HEAT only- Sound is a moot point w/ a convertible and sidepipes...
The best...in my humble opinion...is to use Lizard skin on the INTERIOR-and a reflective metal/aluminum shielding on the outside ...and obviously make sure all the holes are filled/covered.
WHY do I think this?...Not because I LIKE to go against the grain but because I have looked at how high end car makers do it. Even Chevrolet did it with the metal heat shields on the footwells...reflect and use an air gap to keep the heat from being stored....
You want to keep the heat out NOT store it inside the car...look at ANY HVAC duct work- Now tell me where the conditioned air is?
Have you looked at a space shuttle? Did the put the heatshield INSIDE the space capsule...Just sayin...
I think this is the way to do it-He used "Zero clearance heat shield"- can be found on eBay for around $100.
Richard
The best...in my humble opinion...is to use Lizard skin on the INTERIOR-and a reflective metal/aluminum shielding on the outside ...and obviously make sure all the holes are filled/covered.
WHY do I think this?...Not because I LIKE to go against the grain but because I have looked at how high end car makers do it. Even Chevrolet did it with the metal heat shields on the footwells...reflect and use an air gap to keep the heat from being stored....
You want to keep the heat out NOT store it inside the car...look at ANY HVAC duct work- Now tell me where the conditioned air is?
Have you looked at a space shuttle? Did the put the heatshield INSIDE the space capsule...Just sayin...
I think this is the way to do it-He used "Zero clearance heat shield"- can be found on eBay for around $100.
Richard
08-06-2013, 05:53 AM
#13
Safety Car
Richard.....
VERY interesting. Excellent idea!
What kind of adhesive did you use to secure the foil to the bottom? And will it not get damaged by wind or other elements, stones or other road debris that the typical underside of an auto is subject too?
Not so much in your case with side pipes, but what about the exhaust up against it?
Your theory is great, but I`d be interested in hearing from someone who`s done it this way what the results were.
VERY interesting. Excellent idea!
What kind of adhesive did you use to secure the foil to the bottom? And will it not get damaged by wind or other elements, stones or other road debris that the typical underside of an auto is subject too?
Not so much in your case with side pipes, but what about the exhaust up against it?
Your theory is great, but I`d be interested in hearing from someone who`s done it this way what the results were.
08-06-2013, 06:48 AM
#14
Drifting
Les, I bought a 200 sq. foot roll and have a bunch left over for other projects.
Richard has a good point. I covered the full interior and double layered the floorpan. I covered the inside and outside of the HVAC box. I covered the outside footwell area and transmission tunnel of the floorpan.
I even covered my cold air intake.
Richard has a good point. I covered the full interior and double layered the floorpan. I covered the inside and outside of the HVAC box. I covered the outside footwell area and transmission tunnel of the floorpan.
I even covered my cold air intake.
08-06-2013, 12:18 PM
#15
Le Mans Master
Richard.....
VERY interesting. Excellent idea!
What kind of adhesive did you use to secure the foil to the bottom? And will it not get damaged by wind or other elements, stones or other road debris that the typical underside of an auto is subject too?
Not so much in your case with side pipes, but what about the exhaust up against it?
VERY interesting. Excellent idea!
What kind of adhesive did you use to secure the foil to the bottom? And will it not get damaged by wind or other elements, stones or other road debris that the typical underside of an auto is subject too?
Not so much in your case with side pipes, but what about the exhaust up against it?
ZeroClearance heat shields are comprised of high-performance aluminum sheeting ( 10 mils thick ), a mechanically needle punched fiber composite spacer, and a unique high-temperature pressure sensitive adhesive for attachment. Designed for OEM under body placement above catalytic converters, exhaust systems & transmission tunnels. Stop heat at the source before it gets to the floorboard.
Reminds me of Thermotec Cool it which I've used on other cars about the exhaust.