Personally id rather have a local shop do the balance, and hang and align pistons on rods. Before you get too far along, think about head cc for your targeted compression range. If you are looking for decent heads look at brodix ik200 or dart shp. I found the best price on brodix iks to be on amazon of all places when I bought a set a few months ago. Had the machine shop double check them and change the spring setup for ne

 

Keep in mind, normally you get what you pay for. If they were really good items, you'd see them in Nascar races. For your requriements probably ok. If I were to go to Eagle, I'd have a crank grinder check the rod journals to see if they are true to centerline.
The guy who grinds mine ALWAYS has several there in the box waiting to be checked. Most of the time he grinds them to .010 x .010 to make sure they are true.

 

Exact same experience with an eagle lightweight I bought several years,ago, damn thing needed a .010/.010 grind.

 

But Scat doesn't have that problem ?

 

Mucho better QA

 

i busted my Skat crank on my 383... they are only rated to 500hp for the cast ones... if you keep in the 400hp range Skat Cast would be great.. if you go over 500hp you should get a forged.

 

You are relatively close to speed-o- motive, check out their prices on their site. Also see if Team C is still around in bellflower / Downey Both have good machine shops.

 

So yers was a Scat that you broke ?!

I won't be running THAT kind of HP (or RPMs!)

 

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...hem-again.html

 

I just posted these recently on another thread... Can't really beat the price. They are also balanced on a top machine and the balance sheet is attached. I however do not have any personal experience with them.

http://www.whiteperformance.com/assemblies.html

http://www.skipwhiteperformance.com/...roduct=T&Sub=B

..two different companies. I believe uncle at one and nephew at the other. Right down the street from each other. Competing with similar products.

 

if you do not run over 500hp, and not running greater than 7K rpm, than a Skat cast would be great.

 

Awesome links.....thank you!

 

best post yet....get it to a machine shop....after its back and is cleaned with hot soapy water, the first thing to fit is the CAMSHAFT in the bare block...do not make the rookie mistake of fitting the cam last. it may not turn and then you take it all apart again. best to take the cam in so the machinist can check the fit as he installs new cam bearings
also replace the oil pump with a new stock type, no high pressure or hi volume...good luck....

 

Scat is supposed to be better, as I understand it. I'd still have the rod journals checked. They are difficult to find, but an 1182 GM crank would work for you well. It's the forged version of the 2442 cast 350 crank.
Money spent in the bottom end is well spent. That is where you'll get your durability. No matter what you decide, have it ballanced by someone who is good at it.
As far as the cam install recommendation goes, I agree. Cam first. What seems to be the problem that often is explained as core shift, causing the cam not to want to turn freely, is really caused by the cam bearing removal. If the person removing the old cam bearings, over torques the removal tool, he can groove the cam bearing journal surface. What this does is it humps up the area on both sides of the groove. This happens on four sides. Causes an affect similar to knurling valve guides. It reduces the journal diameter just a little.
You can feel this and see it for that matter. The repair is just some careful dremel tool sanding, but needs to be done first, before final cleaning.
The gamble you take with import metal is the quality. You risk that anywhere, but the good stff made here is less of a gamble. Even the good US made crank companies are now offering an economy line of import stuff. They must have to make money, and compete.
There was a couple threads regarding the White engines a year of so ago. If it's the same folks. Do they sell their kits on E-bay?

 

IMHO stick with summit, they are fantastic at taking returns if you aren't happy. For your budget, non Ricky racer build I think Scat is fine, hell, upgrade to their forged crank for a few hundred more if you want peace of mind.

 

Well, good news on my block. I did a quick measurement of the bores (just with calipers) and it's never been bored.
4.001 (with calipers)

 

Didnt know Team C was still around.
Used to have an 85 5.0 they did a hell of a 460 Nitrous motor for it could NOT kill that thing no matter what. Good stuff.
RPM usually kills parts not so much hp

Have learned over time the hard way to let the machinist buy the parts rather than bring them in. Youll save some but moreso have a better chance at a return if a parts bad
and its on them not you.

Never bring all my own parts in and say "build it" again.

 

Did u tap on the crank with a wrench yet. If it rings like a bell its a forged crank. If it kinda dull thuds then its cast. U may or may not be interested. Also any cast numbers under the timing covers?

cardo0

 

There is a little difference in the ring, but the parting line will tell you by sight. The ring will tell you if there are any significant cracks. There still may be very small spider cracks in the journal radius, but those don't happen often in a general use crank most of the time.

 

Going to take the bottom end out today or tomorrow.....but I've decided to go 383 so I won't be using that crank.

But im very interested in checking the numbers under the timing chain cover to see if it's a high nickel block.
Either a 10 or 20 is what I hope to see - yes?