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Dial indicator and Runout

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Old Aug 28, 2013 | 09:53 PM
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Default Dial indicator and Runout

I've never done this before, but tomorrow I am going to use my nifty new dial indicator to check for any runout on my rotors. My question is do I have to take the calipers and with the pads off? I watched a couple of you tubes and they took the calipers off. I don't see why I could not leave them on. The rotor will still turn, and less work. If for some reason I will get a truer reading with calipers off, I will do it, but rather not. Help please..
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Old Aug 28, 2013 | 10:02 PM
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No. The wheel nuts will hold the rotor firmly in place while you take your readings.
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Old Aug 28, 2013 | 10:10 PM
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they probably did it without the calipers so it would be easier to remove the rotor if it needed shimming or repositioning

Last edited by speedreed8; Aug 28, 2013 at 10:54 PM.
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Old Aug 28, 2013 | 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by speedreed8
they probably did it without the calipes so it would be easier to remove the rotor if it needed shimming or repositioning
What he said, If you do find runout your going to have to pull them anyway, 3 or 4 times maybe
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Old Aug 28, 2013 | 10:26 PM
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Old Aug 28, 2013 | 11:20 PM
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Thanks for the video. It did answer some of my other questions..
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Old Aug 28, 2013 | 11:35 PM
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I started not even to buy a dial indicator and check for runout. I did replaced the front wheel bearings and seals, pads, Rem. calipers, SS oring type. Brake hoses and lines. I've read where runout is a for less concern with these over the lip seal. BUT, since I only put around two thousand miles a year on the car, I decided to do all that I could in hope of this being the LAST time I will ever have a break issue. Question: With oring calipers, should I still try and keep the runout at 3 or under? Yes perfect is best, but should I do the shims at 3? Do I let 3 slide? I was going to get the shims from Napa if I need them. Around $30.00 a piece. Only time and money right..
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Old Aug 29, 2013 | 12:13 AM
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Default My 2 cents on shims....

Originally Posted by 401KVette
I started not even to buy a dial indicator and check for runout. I did replaced the front wheel bearings and seals, pads, Rem. calipers, SS oring type. Brake hoses and lines. I've read where runout is a for less concern with these over the lip seal. BUT, since I only put around two thousand miles a year on the car, I decided to do all that I could in hope of this being the LAST time I will ever have a break issue. Question: With oring calipers, should I still try and keep the runout at 3 or under? Yes perfect is best, but should I do the shims at 3? Do I let 3 slide? I was going to get the shims from Napa if I need them. Around $30.00 a piece. Only time and money right..
I bought some shim stock in some different sizes (roll of sheet metal basically in different thickness and used to shim things by machinist, check a supply house for industrial stuff and ask for shim stock, Port Allen and Baton Rouge has a number of these)

Got a pair of scissors and cut out some shims to get the runout to 3 or 4 thousands. Some claim to use beer cans and make shims. I made large washers to serve as shims out of the shim stock.

Now the NAPA version of this special purpose shim is likely tapered some kind of way but IMHO, homemade shims worked just fine.

Hope this helps. BTW, are you going to the Greater New Orleans Corvette Club Show in Slidell in October? Great show with about 200 Corvettes entered. Your 1980 looks super, bring it to the GNOCC show and enter it in the show, proceeds go to a good cause.

Last edited by 20mercury; Aug 29, 2013 at 12:17 AM.
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Old Aug 29, 2013 | 08:57 AM
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Whilst your in there, replace the parking brake shoes. Thats a one beer job.
Enjoy the cold beer, then use the can to make your shim.

All depends how much your runout is but I used this method and only had to use one shim. Got it down to 0.003".
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Old Aug 29, 2013 | 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by 20mercury
I bought some shim stock in some different sizes (roll of sheet metal basically in different thickness and used to shim things by machinist, check a supply house for industrial stuff and ask for shim stock, Port Allen and Baton Rouge has a number of these)

Got a pair of scissors and cut out some shims to get the runout to 3 or 4 thousands. Some claim to use beer cans and make shims. I made large washers to serve as shims out of the shim stock.

Now the NAPA version of this special purpose shim is likely tapered some kind of way but IMHO, homemade shims worked just fine.

Hope this helps. BTW, are you going to the Greater New Orleans Corvette Club Show in Slidell in October? Great show with about 200 Corvettes entered. Your 1980 looks super, bring it to the GNOCC show and enter it in the show, proceeds go to a good cause.
Thank you. Always wanted one, and after doing some very complex calculations with this really high tech calculator, I figured out that I was not getting any younger. lol Always liked the C3. That's what I grew up looking at since I was 14. Anyhow, do you know the dates of the show?
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Old Aug 29, 2013 | 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by jotto
Whilst your in there, replace the parking brake shoes. Thats a one beer job.
Enjoy the cold beer, then use the can to make your shim.

All depends how much your runout is but I used this method and only had to use one shim. Got it down to 0.003".
A one beer job?? Well I wish YOU were here!! I have never done or replaced any type of brakes shoes before, so my buddy who's a old Corvette guy said he could do it. Well after 3 hours, his patience ran out. He said he would have to pull the axles and do it that way. Doing that he said the bearings would be ruined and have to be replaced. I have already bought a stainless steel kit from Vette Brakes. I have not checked anything with the dial indicator yet, but I would hate to go through the trouble and expense on the bearings if they really did not need to be changed. If all does not look to bad after using the dial indicator, I think I will do alot of reading, watch what ever video's I can find, and try to do the parking brakes myself. I totally do not know what I'm doing.
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Old Aug 29, 2013 | 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by 401KVette
A one beer job?? Well I wish YOU were here!! I have never done or replaced any type of brakes shoes before, so my buddy who's a old Corvette guy said he could do it. Well after 3 hours, his patience ran out. He said he would have to pull the axles and do it that way. Doing that he said the bearings would be ruined and have to be replaced. I have already bought a stainless steel kit from Vette Brakes. I have not checked anything with the dial indicator yet, but I would hate to go through the trouble and expense on the bearings if they really did not need to be changed. If all does not look to bad after using the dial indicator, I think I will do alot of reading, watch what ever video's I can find, and try to do the parking brakes myself. I totally do not know what I'm doing.
You do not have to pull the spindles out to change the parking brakes but yes it is easier to do with them out.
The two little springs are the hard part. You can compress them and tie them while compressed with floss. Then after they are in place you cut the floss.
All the vendors have "how to's". Take a look and see if the repair becomes a little clearer.
Regards, Pete.
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Old Aug 29, 2013 | 08:34 PM
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Here's what it looks like when your done.

http://www.corvettemagazine.com/tech...brake-rebuild/
Note: The adjuster on the other side has the "wheel" facing the front.
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Old Aug 29, 2013 | 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by 401KVette
Thank you. Always wanted one, and after doing some very complex calculations with this really high tech calculator, I figured out that I was not getting any younger. lol Always liked the C3. That's what I grew up looking at since I was 14. Anyhow, do you know the dates of the show?
Here you go:
http://gnocc.com/club/carshow
October 19, 2013 in Slidell.

Congratulations on getting your Corvette!! C3's are the best I say, you did good!

Here is another group you might be interested in too:
www.friendsandvettes.com
a freebie and a fun group that plans fun stuff. There is more too check out the Baton Rouge Corvette Club also.

There is nothing better than caravaning with a group of Corvettes to go somewhere and meeting up and talking Corvette stuff with a bunch of Corvette nuts! Welcome to the Fun!
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Old Aug 30, 2013 | 05:41 AM
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As above, I used cotton to tie up the small springs and then burnt it to snap them in to position.

http://www.corvetteclub.org.uk/viewtopic.php?t=13101
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Old Aug 30, 2013 | 09:46 PM
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Thanks for all of the info on the parking brakes. I'll get back on it next week and check the four wheels for any runout. I still have not bled anything yet. Should I use some type of anti-squeal on the back of the pads? I went with Wagner ceramic pads. Already have them in the calipers on the car, but not to late to take them out. ???
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Old Aug 31, 2013 | 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by petes74ttop
You do not have to pull the spindles out to change the parking brakes but yes it is easier to do with them out.
The two little springs are the hard part. You can compress them and tie them while compressed with floss. Then after they are in place you cut the floss.
All the vendors have "how to's". Take a look and see if the repair becomes a little clearer.
Regards, Pete.
What do you think about using some type of anti-squeal compound on the back of the pads? Does the stuff really work? The pads I went with is Wagner's ceramic. The best pair they offered for a Vette.
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Old Sep 2, 2013 | 06:20 PM
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Correct brake grease spread very thin won't hurt.
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/tech...-installation/

Question, you getting a new master cylinder since everything else is new?
And if so you do know you have to bench bleed it?

Also did you check the front wheel bearings?
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Old Sep 3, 2013 | 12:57 AM
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Originally Posted by petes74ttop
Correct brake grease spread very thin won't hurt.
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/tech...-installation/

Question, you getting a new master cylinder since everything else is new?
And if so you do know you have to bench bleed it?

Also did you check the front wheel bearings?
Staying with the same master cylinder. The power booster and master was replaced New about 2.5 years ago. I did just replaced the front bearings, races and seals on this job. Thanks for the link. helpfull..
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Old Sep 3, 2013 | 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by petes74ttop
Correct brake grease spread very thin won't hurt.
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/tech...-installation/

Question, you getting a new master cylinder since everything else is new?
And if so you do know you have to bench bleed it?

Also did you check the front wheel bearings?
But since I drained the master cylinder and filled with fresh fluid, then flushed the lines, then refilled, I'm not sure how would be the best way to bleed the system with the calipers on. I don't have a pressure bleeder so I was going to try the two manway of pumping the pedal.
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