oldguy

I will do that just as soon as I get my new (un-busted) phone later today.
You can go to Summit and look up EMP/Stewart #301 for the three-hole thermo. It will work but has its own set of problems like S-L-O-W warm-up and possibly not enough heat to run your engine right.

TimAT has the answer,just a little different than than what I did.

oldguy

Yes. That's the not-so-pretty way. And for the OP he has a lot of stuff in the way of a direct path to that port. Could go to a Tee on the heater feed but that's almost as hard to get to. Either way takes a lot of contortions to get around all that fuel plumbing. It can be done. He has my sympathy.

rpoL98

Edelbrock water bypass kit #8095 might help, relatively low profile.

http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/...on-items.shtml

Silver 7T8

Hi ALL, I've been following this thread - particularly "OldGuy's" #-96 posting.
OldGuy spoke about the fact that the Dart SHP Block does not have a coolant bypass port.
What warmup &/or cooling issues might be experienced?
I am asking because I am completing a Dart SHP 400-Block based build.
A more mild build vs. OP of this thread. 374-CID, Stewart Stage-1 Water Pump, Dewitt Radiator, L82-Fan Clutch, Standard 180* Thermostat,
218*-Intake .525"/ 228*-Exhaust .525" GM Roller Hot Cam.
A TKO 5-Speed will have this Vette running at 1700-2000 RPM on the highway.
Again the question is what warmup &/ or cooling issues because of the lack of the bypass?

oldguy

"Again the question is what warmup &/ or cooling issues because of the lack of the bypass?"

With no by-pass the water pump builds pressure against the thermo.
Depending on how tight your pump is this probably will hydro-lock the pump and your belts will squueelll like a violated pig. At least mine did.
You could run it with the heater on which I did--until I got edumicated.

Now comes the booger in the Jello.

Without a by-pass there will be no coolant flow THRU the heads to heat the thermo to open. Until enough heat migrates up to the therm your temp gauge will/can/maybe spike up to 230-240 degs. Then the therm gets enough heat to open and you get a big rush of cold coolant-the therm closes-and you start the whole damn thing again. The system will equalize eventually but if you have a really efficient rad/cooling system it may never normalize. The 180 thermo will help. I think.

Here are a couple of pics of how I fixed the by-pass on my 412 SHP.

cv67

interesting never heard of this issue with the shp....learn something new every day

claysmoker

Let's see. 5 years with an SHP blocked engine in the '64, and never encountered a single problem and I have no bypass holes in the 'stat.

Maybe just dumb luck(in my case that happens a lot!)

claysmoker

Just a thought. Is toobroke reincarnated?

pauldana

BHAhahahahah!!!!

Haven't heard that name in a wile..

claysmoker

^^^^^^^^^^Probably a good thing Paul, we've been fortunate

Metalhead140

Why not just drill a couple of holes in the stat, you'll be less likely to get an air lock when filling too? I have a couple of small holes drilled in the stats on all my modified older cars, it will also slow the onset of overheating (giving you more time to notice/respond) if the stat fails shut. Unless you regularly drive your car for very short distances/times then I don't see much downside.

76strokervette

First start up today after priming. I will set valves after the cooling system is hooked up.
It is alive!

CA-Legal-Vette

Congrats! Long time coming.

Make sure you post a video!

76strokervette

Tried to post video with last post maybe it is too long?
Looks like it was the file format.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jaAz...ature=youtu.be

76strokervette

Swapped a few parts and ran on dyno.

632C2

Wow! That thing looks and sounds great!! Any numbers to share?

Crepitus

Sweet any dyno numbers?

76strokervette

Hello Steve, It made 566 hp and 537 lb ft torque. The dyno headers had 1 5/8 primary tubes which may of held things back a little.
Afr 's are decent so I am happy. Running 10.25 to 1 compression ratio to allow a 300 plus shot of Nos or possibly supercharge..
Cam is a nitrous cam so it won't be set on kill na. Should be to able run on 91 octane gas if needed so I think I am in a good spot.

632C2

You are in a very good spot. What are you leaning towards, nitrous or supercharging?

76strokervette

I think I will start with the nos first, to run boost the fuel system will need redone.