Switched power for electric choke?
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Switched power for electric choke?
I'm looking for a good location to tie in the electric choke on my holley. When I got the car the wire just jsut jammed into the distributor clip and taped up. When I redid it I grabbed a constant power supply and the choke has been overheating and never closing it now seems.
I am looking for a small gauge switched accessory to tie the choke circuit. I have a few unused plugs lying around that would have been related to the emissions system as well. I've got a few wire schematic but everything gets blurry pretty quick if I don't know what I am looking for.
I'm an industrial electrician, not an auto electrician, but I should be able to take care of the rest if someone can direct me in the right direction!
I am looking for a small gauge switched accessory to tie the choke circuit. I have a few unused plugs lying around that would have been related to the emissions system as well. I've got a few wire schematic but everything gets blurry pretty quick if I don't know what I am looking for.
I'm an industrial electrician, not an auto electrician, but I should be able to take care of the rest if someone can direct me in the right direction!
Last edited by brainsoft; 10-17-2013 at 05:22 PM.
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I have some larger gauge black and blue wiring going to a double plug that is no longer plugged into anything. It comes out of the wiring harness with the smaller black and blue for the a/c compressor. What did this plug used to do, air pump? If one of those two wires are an ignition +12 they would be idle
#3
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I would run it from a source that's switched from the ignition.
Currently, I have mine running off of the +12 from my coil (no resistance wire) but that is not a good long term solution as these choke coils can draw a couple of amps.
Personally, I'll probably add a relay for the +12 and have that energized by the ignition switch circuit from the fuse block.
Currently, I have mine running off of the +12 from my coil (no resistance wire) but that is not a good long term solution as these choke coils can draw a couple of amps.
Personally, I'll probably add a relay for the +12 and have that energized by the ignition switch circuit from the fuse block.
#6
Drifting
Check the fuse block. There should be a lug marked IGN or similar. That will be switched power. A spade connector will slip on. I added an inline fuse and ran the wire to the choke. Much neater than trying to tie into another circuit.
Pete
Pete
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My shop manual talks about an electronic choke heater... is that the one?
With all the wires I find, I have no idea why there is no choke wires!
I found it on the diagram, Lt Blue, #78
I wonder if that relay is still there
With all the wires I find, I have no idea why there is no choke wires!
I found it on the diagram, Lt Blue, #78
I wonder if that relay is still there
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First one, that is probably right. My 81 had a wiring harness from an 82 underhood, so no choke wire, so I don't know exactly what it looks like.
The second one, assuming it's on the passenger side, is the connector to the aux cooling fan. It runs to a temp switch on the block that would ground the fan to turn it on.
As far as to why it's on the drivers side and is routed all funny... my theory (someone blow my theory up if you want) is that GM already had the C101 (I think that is the name of it) connector filled up with things that are on the passenger side. Instead of redoing everything to add the electric choke they routed it oddly and added it to the C102 (again, connector names off the top of my head) connector instead.
The second one, assuming it's on the passenger side, is the connector to the aux cooling fan. It runs to a temp switch on the block that would ground the fan to turn it on.
As far as to why it's on the drivers side and is routed all funny... my theory (someone blow my theory up if you want) is that GM already had the C101 (I think that is the name of it) connector filled up with things that are on the passenger side. Instead of redoing everything to add the electric choke they routed it oddly and added it to the C102 (again, connector names off the top of my head) connector instead.
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Looks like those old heater wires are still connected. I expected 1 wire with the neg just being a jumper to the mounting screw. There was only a single plug, the other wire was cut. I've now cut back both wires to get past the heat cracks and can splice them up once I verify them with my multimeter.
Can anyone confirm that the cables are + and - for the choke heaters? One looks to be light blue and the other is black with a blue stripe.
Can anyone confirm that the cables are + and - for the choke heaters? One looks to be light blue and the other is black with a blue stripe.