ctuinstra

I went out to my '68 manual to see if I could get good picts of it for you and I couldn't find it myself and I know what I'm looking for. Apparently my car didn't have one because I can start the car in neutral without the clutch pushed in. Sorry I can't help much more. Maybe someone else might be able to chime in and give you some more to look at.

Jerry Curl

Thanx for looking. And all your help. I'll take a look and keep posting.

lionelhutz

The voltage dropping in the start position is telling me that the solenoid gets connected but there is a bad connection that is preventing the solenoid from getting enough voltage to engage.

Next, you need to check the voltage with the meter connected at the following points.

Engine block and the main post at the starter, the post where the cable from the battery is connected. The top big stud.

Engine block and the big wires attached to the screws on the horn relay.

Engine block and the big stud with the red wire connected on the back of the alternator.

Try those and make sure you record the measurements with the key off, key on and key in the start position.

Jerry Curl

I've had this car for 8 years and never had a problem. Now you're asking me to look at things I don't understand.

I'm thinking I need to have this towed to a shop because I'm new to the area (I moved recently) and I know no one to ask to help and I'm not that proficient in all this. It's hitting me all at once.

I know owning a car like this requires maintenance, and I assumed if have trouble off and on, so I assumed I would learn as I go. But now I'm caught off guard and not sure how to so this and lack the know how to tackle it. I need someone to show me how. This sucks.

lionelhutz

Well, you'll have to find a good shop then because many mechanics understand the electrical system about as well as you do. If you end up at one of those you'll just be paying them to stumble around trying to find a solution instead of doing it yourself.

Jerry Curl

Can you tell me where the horn relay is? I have no idea what that looks like.

hugie82

I didn't read all the posts but I'm assuming someone said beat the starter with a hammer while someone works the key should get it to crank. Usually a starter will give you a few starts dong that.
The voltage drop can be seen by watching the volt gauge when you turn the key or turn the headlights on and watch them dim. If you have no voltage drop, it's an electrical problem that most older mechanics can handle. If you see a voltage drop and nothing happens. Then it's the starter. 2 bolts and 2-3 wires to replace. Not hard but heavy and wires must be placed on the correct posts. Pepboys charges about $220 to replace a starter.

Jerry Curl

There is a slight voltage drop (12.19 to 11.7). For some reason my headlights won't pop up. I assume lack of power to them. Dash lights and tail lights come on but don't dim.

No one said anything about beating the car with a hammer, although that's about how I feel. LOL

lvmyvt76

your headlights won't come up unless it has vacuum going. BUT they will turn on, just look under the car in the front.

AirborneSilva

You can also manually pull the headlights up, ask me how I know

lionelhutz

I should look something like this.

http://www.classicindustries.com/196...ts/d1709a.html

I really have no idea where it is. Try looking on the firewall or the drivers inner fender. Maybe someone else can help with the location.

Jerry Curl

Hi guys. Just thought I'd let you know what happened.

I found a shop about 6 miles from my house and spoke to the owner. Turns out he worked for 3 years working on Corvettes at at a Corvette specialty shop in Tampa, and he owns a C3 as well. A '72. He's just about finished restoring his. I described everything I spoke about here, and he was inclined to think it was the starter. So I had the car towed to his shop and sure enough, that was the problem. He said he thinks the problem came from the heat coming off the headers, and the starter was pretty cheap. It was pretty much fried. So he replaced it with a reconditioned starter and gave me a lifetime warranty on it. And he got it done fast. I had it towed on Friday and he had it done this afternoon. He also said to call or stop by with any other questions should I decide to tackle something on my own. So it all worked out and now I know of a local guy I can go to if I get in another jam.

hugie82

Excellent
A small project you can tackle is ordering a starter wrap or heat shield . They are cheap and you just get it around the starter the best you can between the header and starter. With a few tie wraps and you're done! Even though you have a lifetime on the starter, that may not cove labor. These cars are awesome but you will have to learn how to get your hands dirty or they can nickel you to death with little jobs.
Good luck, buy some manuals

MIKE80

Replacing my starter this past weekend fixed mine also. I went with a mini starter, it has more clearance from the exhaust. Good to hear you got yours straightened out too

Jtansek

I had a similar issue, it turned out that one of the starter wires was too close to the heat shield on the starter, and the heat shield was loose, so whenever it would shift, it would ground against one of the starter wires, and the damn thing wouldn't start.

jimbo8125

the neutral switch is way up high on the clutch pedal. there are two wires you need to jump to by-pass, mine were purple. my 77 acted like that and it was the neutral switch. I jumped mine and it works fine. to replace it you have almost pull the dash and steering column and the part isn't cheap. I remind everyone that either put in the clutch or make sure it's in neutral before you hit the key.

65GGvert

He fixed that about 2 1/2 years ago with a starter.