81 Fiberglass Repair HELP
#1
81 Fiberglass Repair HELP
Ive had the car for a little over a year now and its time to start body work. Ive have no experience with fiberglass but with owning a vette I figure its best to know how to do repairs. What I would like to know is the damage to the car an easy fix or should I let the pros handle it. I have a little girl on the way so money is tight and every dollar saved makes for a happy wife. Thanks in advance.
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#2
Anything can be easy if you want to learn. Best thing about your repair is all the pieces are there. You'll need course sand paper, 24-40 grit. best on a DA or a small air grinder, some resin for SMC fiberglass, most will recommend using epoxy resin, probably a good option and fiberglass mat and acetone. The bottom air dam can be repaired with 3M or SEM flexible bumper repair. I just repaired mine that looked similar to yours. There are good books or articles on SMC/fiberglass repair but basically your grind back the paint and get to good fiberglass, clean the area well with acetone. Lay up a couple layers, then go to the opposite side of the panel and do the same, grind the panel crack/hole back with a nice taper, you want to see some of the new fiberglass from the opposite side, then lay a few of new glass..that way you have a good repair on both sides...there are good vids on Youtube under fiberglass boat repair. or you can PM me and I'll give you my phone number and give you better details or instructions..
#3
Safety Car
You can do it but remember, that's the first places a buyer will look for damage and repairs. So if you want top dollar on resale, have it fixed by the best!
If your like me and never plan on selling, go for it and do your homework!
If your like me and never plan on selling, go for it and do your homework!
#4
Ive been reading up and watching ever video I can find on fiberglass repairs. It doesn't seem to bad and from what I've learned if it doesn't turn out right I can cut it out and try again. Its my first vette and I could never see me selling it. Any recommendations on the products I should use?
#6
Melting Slicks
#7
Le Mans Master
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If you want to do the repairs yourself, you can. It's not that hard if you want to take the time to learn. Ecklers, has a couple of excellent DVD's on the subject that are very helpful. They were made quite a few years ago by Al Sowash , an employee no longer there. He ran their body shop when the company was run by its founders, the Eckler brothers, who have long since sold out. If you buy these DVD's, though, just be sure they are by him. FWIW, it's his pic on the label. I had the VCR versions and the book on the subject, but I sold them on the Forum a while back.
Keep in mind you will need tools and supplies to do the job which are not cheap.
Keep in mind you will need tools and supplies to do the job which are not cheap.
#8
Race Director
Looking at your photo's. if you do not have tools, air compressor and paint guns...by the time you get done repairing this...you can have as much if not more than getting it repaired by someone who knows what to do.
I an NOT writing that YOU can NOT do it. But if $$$ and time are a factor...you might want to think this through. I get in Corvettes from time to time when the owner started...and got tired of it...and then bring it to me to finish...and in many cases...I have to cut/grind out all what they did...because it was not done correctly...BECAUSE they will want a warranty on it....and I do not go over other peoples repairs often...and IF I do...it is well stated that I am NOT responsible for work that I did not do.
For what it is worth....this job will take some time to get right. A majority of the damage is/are located in areas that require attention to make sure that they are repaired correctly.....versus...just slapping stuff in a crack that has been ground out.
DUB
I an NOT writing that YOU can NOT do it. But if $$$ and time are a factor...you might want to think this through. I get in Corvettes from time to time when the owner started...and got tired of it...and then bring it to me to finish...and in many cases...I have to cut/grind out all what they did...because it was not done correctly...BECAUSE they will want a warranty on it....and I do not go over other peoples repairs often...and IF I do...it is well stated that I am NOT responsible for work that I did not do.
For what it is worth....this job will take some time to get right. A majority of the damage is/are located in areas that require attention to make sure that they are repaired correctly.....versus...just slapping stuff in a crack that has been ground out.
DUB
#9
DUB could you give me a ballpark price on what a shop might charge? I took it by the local shop here and the guy told me that he wouldn't/couldn't do it. I know a few guy that paint at other shops that will do their best to blend after the repairs are done. The time it takes isn't all that important to me.
#10
Race Director
DUB could you give me a ballpark price on what a shop might charge? I took it by the local shop here and the guy told me that he wouldn't/couldn't do it. I know a few guy that paint at other shops that will do their best to blend after the repairs are done. The time it takes isn't all that important to me.
It will depend on how easy or hard the fasteners that will need to be removed actually come out.
Front bumper cover needs to be removed...which can cause the retainers to break if the studs are rusted due to the studs are 10-24 threaded and can easily rust and bind up the nut when being removed and snap them off...or you have to take hours to try to save the studs by being careful and using a penetrating oil on the threads carefully so you can save the retainers....BECAUSE if you get too aggressive on these nuts...you can also actually cause the staked in stud in the retainer to spin...and when that happens...that opens up another can of worms ENTIRELY!!!! That is problem number one. So I have no idea on what the front bumper removal time would be.
AS for the other damage...it will all depend on what is under the paint and how bad the bonding strip is damaged in the corner of the front end. The crack by the headlight opening is a "good" one also. The wheel well cracks ( which I HOPE are all in one fender) because I can not tell by your photos due to the close up shots are not giving be perspective on where they are located actually on the panel. And if they are all together or close to each other.
Bottom air dam is what it is. That would actually be a "toss-up". Repairing it and creating the flange so your extensions can be attached and it having strength...versus buying a new one. For me...if I have more time and material costs in repairing it versus a new one...it is pointless for me to repair it...even though I am capable of doing it.
SO throwing you number is DANGEROUS. This is not a "cut and dry" repair. Too many "unknowns". What ever I would write could change rapidly. Could be at or around $1200 for body repairs alone....but that may be low or high.
DUB