Need to lower rear of vette where to buy 10" bolts
05-03-2014, 10:39 PM
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Need to lower rear of vette where to buy 10" bolts
I lowered the front of my 79 vette and now I need to lower the rear of the car. Where can I purchase 10" bolts that already have the hole drilled into the bolt along with the castle nut?
05-03-2014, 10:57 PM
#2
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Feb 2009
Location: Dallas Georgia
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Do you just want the castle nut? Otherwise many of the longer spring bolts come with lock nuts that work fine.
05-04-2014, 12:21 AM
#3
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
05-04-2014, 04:00 AM
#4
Racer
05-04-2014, 09:58 AM
#5
Le Mans Master
I checked the Van Steel site and the 63-82 lowering bolt is 8". Lowers rear up to two inches.
8" Poly kit: SG-11PK8
8" Poly kit: SG-11PK8
05-04-2014, 10:13 AM
#6
Team Owner
You might want to check prior threads re how close to the rim those bolts are and the possibility they stick below the rim. In case of a flat tire sparks may fly.
05-04-2014, 11:55 AM
#7
Melting Slicks
I used 8" bolts from Corvette America. I think 10" bolts would be problematic! You can lower up to 2-2 1/2" with the 8" which is plenty for most apps! 
I had to drill mine for the castle nuts!! The bolts are semi-hard Grade 8 but do-able on a drill press!
I had to drill mine for the castle nuts!! The bolts are semi-hard Grade 8 but do-able on a drill press!
Last edited by BPHORSEGUY; 05-04-2014 at 12:07 PM.
05-04-2014, 08:34 PM
#9
Le Mans Master
I got a pair from the local Caterpillar dealer- Fastenal was closed. Ended up not using them, the bolt heads were too thick and were going to be a PITA. Not drilled for a castle nut either, I was going to use a Nyloc.
05-04-2014, 09:11 PM
#10
Racer
Member Since: Aug 2006
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You really need to rethink using the castle nuts... One of mine split in half and dropped my steel spring on to the pavement ... At 70 mph on a Dallas Interstate Highway.... Lots of Sparks and bending Steel....while having to drive around a mile to be able to pull off the road...if you do use them... Consider using a jam nut to beef up the castle nut...This is how I now have VB&P springs front and rear.
Last edited by TEXASDESERTVETTE; 05-04-2014 at 09:16 PM.
05-05-2014, 03:41 PM
#14
Le Mans Master
Sorry OP, Not to hijack, but its related to the conversation:
"Stock" bolts are 8", yes?
My car just had the T/A's done, all new ujoints and a f'glass spring installed (330lb). The "stock" length bolts are at the end of the adjustment. So, after driving the car for awhile how much should one expect it to settle? Any at all? (poly was used, but that's not the debate)
If I want to drop it more, I'd go to 10" bolts. I don't see any reason why the rear would need to re-alligned. Is my logic correct or flawed? Just R&R the 8" for the 10"?
With the 10's, if the excess is to close to the tire or the road I don't see any reason the bolt couldn't be cut at 9' if I so chose to. Isn't the issue the spring itself being to close to the tire (like 1/4" or 1/2" close)?
thoughts?
dodosmike
"Stock" bolts are 8", yes?
My car just had the T/A's done, all new ujoints and a f'glass spring installed (330lb). The "stock" length bolts are at the end of the adjustment. So, after driving the car for awhile how much should one expect it to settle? Any at all? (poly was used, but that's not the debate)
If I want to drop it more, I'd go to 10" bolts. I don't see any reason why the rear would need to re-alligned. Is my logic correct or flawed? Just R&R the 8" for the 10"?
With the 10's, if the excess is to close to the tire or the road I don't see any reason the bolt couldn't be cut at 9' if I so chose to. Isn't the issue the spring itself being to close to the tire (like 1/4" or 1/2" close)?
thoughts?
dodosmike
05-05-2014, 04:54 PM
#15
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
You really need to rethink using the castle nuts... One of mine split in half and dropped my steel spring on to the pavement ... At 70 mph on a Dallas Interstate Highway.... Lots of Sparks and bending Steel....while having to drive around a mile to be able to pull off the road...if you do use them... Consider using a jam nut to beef up the castle nut...This is how I now have VB&P springs front and rear.
05-05-2014, 05:04 PM
#16
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Sorry OP, Not to hijack, but its related to the conversation:
"Stock" bolts are 8", yes?
My car just had the T/A's done, all new ujoints and a f'glass spring installed (330lb). The "stock" length bolts are at the end of the adjustment. So, after driving the car for awhile how much should one expect it to settle? Any at all? (poly was used, but that's not the debate)
If I want to drop it more, I'd go to 10" bolts. I don't see any reason why the rear would need to re-alligned. Is my logic correct or flawed? Just R&R the 8" for the 10"?
With the 10's, if the excess is to close to the tire or the road I don't see any reason the bolt couldn't be cut at 9' if I so chose to. Isn't the issue the spring itself being to close to the tire (like 1/4" or 1/2" close)?
thoughts?
dodosmike
"Stock" bolts are 8", yes?
My car just had the T/A's done, all new ujoints and a f'glass spring installed (330lb). The "stock" length bolts are at the end of the adjustment. So, after driving the car for awhile how much should one expect it to settle? Any at all? (poly was used, but that's not the debate)
If I want to drop it more, I'd go to 10" bolts. I don't see any reason why the rear would need to re-alligned. Is my logic correct or flawed? Just R&R the 8" for the 10"?
With the 10's, if the excess is to close to the tire or the road I don't see any reason the bolt couldn't be cut at 9' if I so chose to. Isn't the issue the spring itself being to close to the tire (like 1/4" or 1/2" close)?
thoughts?
dodosmike
05-05-2014, 08:15 PM
#18
Melting Slicks
Because the corvette has independent rear suspension, unlike a straight axle camaro, when you lower the car, the differential also lowers, but you wheels and half shafts have to move in relation.....giving you more camber. You've seen lowered VWs or ricer cars right? Where the tires are so canted that they are drivin on only part of the tire? Same thing. Lower the car where you want it (8" bolts are usually enough) and then have it aligned.
Make sure the heads of your bolts drop through the TA into the pocket.
Make sure the heads of your bolts drop through the TA into the pocket.
