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1981 horns not working, possibly missing. Picture request.

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Old May 18, 2014 | 11:36 AM
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Default 1981 horns not working, possibly missing. Picture request.

So the horns on my '81 don't seem to be working but I can't even see them.
According to my AIM and Shop manual, they should be up front between the head lights. The wiring diagram shows a dark green feed.

Can anyone post a picture of the horns in place and also show me where the cables run.

By the alternator I looked in the loom and found a dark green wire but I can't see where it should exit the loom to power the horns.

Any help appreciated.
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Old May 18, 2014 | 06:43 PM
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I have seen them also attached to the outboard side of the headlight actuator supports.

You have to look inside the loom between your headlights and find it and follow it.

Have you found the horn relay???

DUB
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Old May 19, 2014 | 01:55 AM
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When I press the horn button I hear a relay click under the dashboard.
Will check the outboard side of the lights as you suggested.

Originally Posted by DUB
I have seen them also attached to the outboard side of the headlight actuator supports.

You have to look inside the loom between your headlights and find it and follow it.

Have you found the horn relay???

DUB
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Old May 19, 2014 | 03:05 PM
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Paul,
Trying to actually "see" the horns is difficult to say the least. They are located on the forward side of the front wheel wells, just below the top of the body.
Look at this picture; if you could see behind the headlight outer bearing, this is where the horn is at. One on each side of the car. Take note of the wiring harness under the headlight frame.


Look inside the front wheel well or liner, looking towards the front; do you see this bracket?


I just painted these so they stand-out a bit. This is part of the horn bracket.

An actual picture of one of the horns:


See that wire harness?...that is the same one as in the first picture.

As I said, a bit difficult to see.

LannyL81

Last edited by LannyL81; May 19, 2014 at 03:09 PM.
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Old May 19, 2014 | 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by LannyL81
Paul,
Trying to actually "see" the horns is difficult to say the least. They are located on the forward side of the front wheel wells, just below the top of the body.
Look at this picture; if you could see behind the headlight outer bearing, this is where the horn is at. One on each side of the car. Take note of the wiring harness under the headlight frame.


Look inside the front wheel well or liner, looking towards the front; do you see this bracket?


I just painted these so they stand-out a bit. This is part of the horn bracket.

An actual picture of one of the horns:


See that wire harness?...that is the same one as in the first picture.

As I said, a bit difficult to see.

LannyL81

Lanny, is this the horn?


Looks like a pain to get to!
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Old May 19, 2014 | 04:32 PM
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So had a quick look and Lanny/Dub you were correct.
Thanks for the pics Lanny.

Mine are not so pretty as yours....




Now, how do you get to them???? Any tips?
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Old May 19, 2014 | 04:55 PM
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This should help you fix them.. if you are hearing the click of the relay under the dash, your problem is forward of the firewall.. and probably the horn or a missing, corroded ground.

Last edited by Willcox Corvette; May 3, 2016 at 08:38 PM.
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Old May 19, 2014 | 05:18 PM
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exactly what Wilcox said !

Venders providing Technical support... what a concept !
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Old May 19, 2014 | 06:45 PM
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If you tap on the horn housing while someone is pressing on the horn button...this may allow it to sound off. Like Willcox mentioned...it is outside where your horns are...either bad/dirty ground or dirty power connection on the horn itself...or just bad /old horns.

DUB
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Old May 20, 2014 | 08:24 AM
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Paul,
You found the horns...well at least one of them anyways.

I think the best path for removal would be out the bottom; will have to remove part of the fender liner; held-in with push-in type retainers. Then you can unbolt them from within the fender liner and disconnect the two electrical connections.

You could always take out the headlight assemblies; that will definitely give access....but that is a lot of work, unless you really want to rebuild the headlight assemblies.

I took both horns out and one of them I dumped a bunch of rust out it! I was going to replace both horns, but was able to get them working and sounding pretty good by lots of tap'ing on them and turning the note adjustment screw, which required some oil to loosen it up first. I could only find universal plastic replacement horns which would have required some mods to get to fit, so I did not get them. No inspections here require working horns.

Let us know what you find-out and end-up doing.

Lanny
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Old May 20, 2014 | 11:08 AM
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Cheers Lanny.

Will have a go at removal. I have to get 2 tires on the front so may just remove the wheels and drop them at the auto shop. May make access easier.

If I cant get to them easily enough, my inner bubba will surface and a set of universal horns will be fitted in the middle of the headlights as previous years and I will either make a connector to go from the original wiring plug or splice in to the loom in the middle. Summer is approaching and I want to make the most of it this year.


Originally Posted by LannyL81
Paul,
You found the horns...well at least one of them anyways.

I think the best path for removal would be out the bottom; will have to remove part of the fender liner; held-in with push-in type retainers. Then you can unbolt them from within the fender liner and disconnect the two electrical connections.

You could always take out the headlight assemblies; that will definitely give access....but that is a lot of work, unless you really want to rebuild the headlight assemblies.

I took both horns out and one of them I dumped a bunch of rust out it! I was going to replace both horns, but was able to get them working and sounding pretty good by lots of tap'ing on them and turning the note adjustment screw, which required some oil to loosen it up first. I could only find universal plastic replacement horns which would have required some mods to get to fit, so I did not get them. No inspections here require working horns.

Let us know what you find-out and end-up doing.

Lanny
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Old May 20, 2014 | 05:48 PM
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jotto,
PLEASE do not let your "inner bubba" surface. It is not that hard...once wheels are removed and you get the black plastic shield removed. But do as you wish.

DUB
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Old May 20, 2014 | 06:21 PM
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I fixed my horn on my '82 by simply taking the horn button off. Then the mechanism underneath was rusty, so I removed it and cleaned up the contact points with some emery cloth. Put it back together and it worked perfectly. Took all of 20 min to do and cost me nothing.
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Old May 20, 2014 | 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by htown81vette
I fixed my horn on my '82 by simply taking the horn button off. Then the mechanism underneath was rusty, so I removed it and cleaned up the contact points with some emery cloth. Put it back together and it worked perfectly. Took all of 20 min to do and cost me nothing.
But his horn contact is working because the horn relay is "clicking" when he hits the horn button. The problem he has is in the horns or wiring at them.

DUB
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Old May 20, 2014 | 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by DUB
But his horn contact is working because the horn relay is "clicking" when he hits the horn button. The problem he has is in the horns or wiring at them.

DUB
I never once said in my post that what I did to solve my problem is what will solve his problem, I simply said what I did to fix my horn, FWIW. It's at least something to check, and hardly takes any effort at all. It could also be the relay itself, just because a relay is "clicking" doesn't mean the contacts are conducting electricity.
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Old May 20, 2014 | 08:26 PM
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Before disassembling the front end, why not just jumper 12 vdc from the battery to the power line going to the horns (AFTER the relay). If the horns don't work, you know you have a horn problem or a wiring problem beyond where you are feeding the voltage. If they DO work, you don't need to disassemble anything to get to the horns or pull them out. Your problem would be the relay (the most likely fault), wiring, or possibly a bad ground (did you change/repair/replace the ragjoint on the steering column?).
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Old May 20, 2014 | 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
Before disassembling the front end, why not just jumper 12 vdc from the battery to the power line going to the horns (AFTER the relay). If the horns don't work, you know you have a horn problem or a wiring problem beyond where you are feeding the voltage. If they DO work, you don't need to disassemble anything to get to the horns or pull them out. Your problem would be the relay (the most likely fault), wiring, or possibly a bad ground (did you change/repair/replace the ragjoint on the steering column?).
Someone knows what they're talking about.

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Old May 20, 2014 | 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by spedaleden
Someone knows what they're talking about.


This is exactly why the paper above says to test the horns.. there is a connection you can break to use for testing.. If you hit the horn with 12 volts and it fails, run a jumper ground and try again. This will tell you if the horn is the issue or if the ground is at fault..

Willcox
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Old May 21, 2014 | 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by htown81vette
I never once said in my post that what I did to solve my problem is what will solve his problem, I simply said what I did to fix my horn, FWIW. It's at least something to check, and hardly takes any effort at all. It could also be the relay itself, just because a relay is "clicking" doesn't mean the contacts are conducting electricity.
I READ and UNDERSTOOD your post....and if you read his issue...getting into the upper horn contacts would be useless....because he was getting a ground signal from the horn button area. I KNOW you were commenting on what you did to fix your problem....but I would hate for him to get into the upper column have have problems....when it was not needed to be touched.

And even though you repaired yours in 20 minutes...I can tell you from experience that when removing a horn button...there is always a chance that it will come apart....and why open another can of worms when it was not needed. Which can easily occur. No need for the guy to get into an area that can cause more grief.

DUB
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