Cracking / popping sound right front
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Cracking / popping sound right front
Hi guys. My 70 has developed a creak or cracking sound in the right front, I believe, within the last couple of days. I noticed it with the tops off on a rougher paved road.
It's more of a crack than a creak in my opinion, because it is a single sound that is quick, not a sound that you hear all the way through the movement of the suspension.
I can reproduce the sound by bouncing the front of the car on the right from the top or bottom if I try hard enough. Up, crack, down, crack same place. I've been laying on the ground basically bench pressing the car trying to pinpoint it, but I can't. Shocks are less than a year old Bilsteins, bushings everywhere look fine, steering is good, etc. There's no noticeable performance issue. It's not the sway as far as I can tell. All the joints are newly greased (I thought this night help, but it didn't). Body mounts are fine.
I couldn't find any on point threads about this in search. Anyone have any ideas? It's driving me nuts, and it's only 48 hours old.
It's more of a crack than a creak in my opinion, because it is a single sound that is quick, not a sound that you hear all the way through the movement of the suspension.
I can reproduce the sound by bouncing the front of the car on the right from the top or bottom if I try hard enough. Up, crack, down, crack same place. I've been laying on the ground basically bench pressing the car trying to pinpoint it, but I can't. Shocks are less than a year old Bilsteins, bushings everywhere look fine, steering is good, etc. There's no noticeable performance issue. It's not the sway as far as I can tell. All the joints are newly greased (I thought this night help, but it didn't). Body mounts are fine.
I couldn't find any on point threads about this in search. Anyone have any ideas? It's driving me nuts, and it's only 48 hours old.
#2
Melting Slicks
Check the frame where the lower a-arms attach. Mine was doing that and the frame bracket was cracked/torn. It made the tire wear funny at first and then it started pulling to the right. Simple fix for an experienced welder, but it also cost me two new front tires due to wear.
#3
Instructor
Member Since: Aug 2013
Location: Johnston Rhode Island
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Check to make sure the bolts on either side of your top A arm are tight and not allowing it to move. There will be a bolt, washer, and rubber bushing on either side. Something has to be loose in that area to make that noise.
Like mentioned, check the bottom as well.
Like mentioned, check the bottom as well.
#4
Drifting
Thread Starter
The frame looks fine in that area. It's all smooth, there's no rust anywhere on the frame, and I don't see any stress cracking or anything in that area. I also don't have any pulling or odd handling or wear issues.
#5
Drifting
Thread Starter
I got under there and grabbed the control arms and nothing seems loose. The bolts either side of the arms seem tight. I will maybe put a wrench on them next.
#6
I had the same thing on another vehicle of mine. I searched forever and replaced/greased tons of parts. It turned out to be the lower ball joint. I didn't think it would be because it only made the noise when going over bumps, not when turning.
It's an easy check at any rate.
It's an easy check at any rate.
#7
Drifting
Thread Starter
My gut has been saying ball joint since the sound started, but I also figured that would show up on turning and it doesn't - unless there's a bump also.
Big job to replace on a C3?
Big job to replace on a C3?
#8
Ball joints are never fun. It's about the same as any car.
I don't know about where you are, but you can rent the proper tools at most auto parts stores to tackle it yourself.
I don't know about where you are, but you can rent the proper tools at most auto parts stores to tackle it yourself.
#9
Drifting
Thread Starter
I tend to shy away from suspension work sometimes. Nervous about flying springs and stuff. I suspect a spring compressor might be required.
#10
Drifting
Thread Starter
Did some reading about ball joint replacement. Doesn't sound fun at all.
I like to keep things as close to original as possible, with some exceptions. Is it out of the question to rivet new ball joints in rather than bolt them?
I like to keep things as close to original as possible, with some exceptions. Is it out of the question to rivet new ball joints in rather than bolt them?
#11
You should check them before you get too deep into it. They may not be the issue at all.
Easiest way is to put the suspect corner of the car up on a jack stand. Grab the wheel at 3 and 6 O'Clock. Push the tire laterally and see if the ball moves in the socket. Then grab the wheel at 12 and 6 and move push it up and down and again check for any slop in the ball joint. There is a tolerance, but it's very very slight. You shouldn't really see it move at all.
Easiest way is to put the suspect corner of the car up on a jack stand. Grab the wheel at 3 and 6 O'Clock. Push the tire laterally and see if the ball moves in the socket. Then grab the wheel at 12 and 6 and move push it up and down and again check for any slop in the ball joint. There is a tolerance, but it's very very slight. You shouldn't really see it move at all.
#13
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Feb 2001
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you should check them before you get too deep into it. They may not be the issue at all.
Easiest way is to put the suspect corner of the car up on a jack stand. Grab the wheel at 3 and 9 o'clock. Push the tire laterally and see if the ball moves in the socket. Then grab the wheel at 12 and 6 and move push it up and down and again check for any slop in the ball joint. There is a tolerance, but it's very very slight. You shouldn't really see it move at all.
Easiest way is to put the suspect corner of the car up on a jack stand. Grab the wheel at 3 and 9 o'clock. Push the tire laterally and see if the ball moves in the socket. Then grab the wheel at 12 and 6 and move push it up and down and again check for any slop in the ball joint. There is a tolerance, but it's very very slight. You shouldn't really see it move at all.
#14
Melting Slicks
sometimes the four retainer trim ring makes noises that sound like it could be suspension related.
#15
Drifting
Thread Starter
Yes the trim rings have sent me on wild goose chases before. This time I removed the ring on the front right and could still reproduce the sound by rocking the front end.
The sound is most noticeable when I lift the front of the car up with my hands, by the front bumper brace for instance.
Haven't jacked it up yet, that's the morning's task - along with pulling the rad in my 76 (ugh).
The sound is most noticeable when I lift the front of the car up with my hands, by the front bumper brace for instance.
Haven't jacked it up yet, that's the morning's task - along with pulling the rad in my 76 (ugh).
#16
Melting Slicks
Lower ball joint is not too bad. Jack the car up by the lower control arm and not the frame so that the ball joint is not hidden by the jack. You don't have to mess with the spring at all except when you remove the lower control arm from the car. Remove the brakes, etc. and then the lower joint can be separated from the spindle and replaced.
#20