Piston selection - dished or flat?
I am building up a ~300hp, 350 torque motor on a '77 with this cam:
http://tinyurl.com/mdrwclb
Last edited by Jim__H; Jul 25, 2014 at 12:23 AM. Reason: clarification
No pinging at 9.9:1 even at 86 octane and a 3.08 rear ratio with th350 tranny.
I did use aluminum heads as well which helps.
Can't remember where I read that, but I do remember discovering that in the planning of my engine.
I thought I would get more response on the dished vs flat question, it is such a fundamental one. My "knowledgeable source" is a well seasoned mechanic who really loves this stuff. Here is his rationale for dished pistons over flat:
<<the deal with dished pistons is the propagation of the flame front being better. For a moment,think of the old chrysler hemi combustion chamber and how the charge would propagate in it.
a dished piston kinda works like that but in reverse. A bonus of the dished piston is that the largest part of the heat is kept AWAY from the cylinder walls and concentrated within the dish itself. a localized and concentrated swirl effect is also accomplished during the overlap phase of the valves that is superior to that of a flat top piston. Also,if a relief is called for in a flat top piston to accommodate valve clearances that very same relief will cause eddys in the intake charge that will destabilize the flame front propagation and leave the combustion chamber more prone to produce detonation. Remember the deal with removing sharp angles from the combustion chamber because of the inherent possibility of flame fronts colliding at opposing angles and causing detonation? Same principles apply here. This is why i go for dished pistons instead of flat top/relieved for valve clearances ones. it's all about efficiency. >>
Some food for thought....or at least stoke the conversation. The part about keeping heat away from the cylinder wall makes sense.
Comments welcome.
The piston is made of aluminum. It can only take so much heat.
An important function of the rings is to transfer heat to the cylinder walls away from the piston.
The cylinder walls have a water jacket around them to carry heat away.
So if anything the cylinder walls have the greater capacity for heat control that the piston by itself.
Get a piston to hot and you'll melt a hole through it.
Maybe he meant to say it focus' the energy of the combustion pressure on the piston better than a non dished design.
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I'm not on board with your mechanic's reasoning either, you never see dished pistons in hi-perf normally aspirated engines for a reason..
The piston is made of aluminum. It can only take so much heat.
An important function of the rings is to transfer heat to the cylinder walls away from the piston.
The cylinder walls have a water jacket around them to carry heat away.
So if anything the cylinder walls have the greater capacity for heat control that the piston by itself.
Get a piston to hot and you'll melt a hole through it.
Maybe he meant to say it focus' the energy of the combustion pressure on the piston better than a non dished design.
REELAV8R - yes, the focusing of the energy is the main emphasis of his recommendation, for efficiency which should help to lower NOX and potential for pinging. Keep in mind that I am trying to get the most out of a basically stock L48 with cast iron heads and a mild cam upgrade. GM made a ton of these engines with dished pistons so I am sure they worked out the heat transfer to prevent localized overheating of the piston.
Airbuspilot, since I live in CA and will need to smog the car and run on 91 octane gas that plays into the logic. Engines with higher compression, aluminum heads, etc. I guess would be a different ball game.
7t9l82 - I had to think about that one for a minute...maybe I have been working on the car too much ;-)





Post #12 in this thread if you want to see how it's done.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...-my-cr-be.html
If at all possible different heads w/smaller chambers would be better.
Post #12 in this thread if you want to see how it's done.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...-my-cr-be.html
If at all possible different heads w/smaller chambers would be better.
Bore 4.030"
Stroke 3.48"
Deck clearance 0.038" (using a dial indicator and magnetic base)
Head gasket thickness 0.038"
Dish volume 11cc (measured with syringe, plexiglass etc)
Chamfer volume 2.55cc (calculated, chamfer is 5/32 x 5/32")
I have a compression calculating spreadsheet that I got from a Jag buddy, btw my other vintage car is a '67 E-Type Jag:
http://www.xkedata.com/cars/detail/?car=1E13653
The CR numbers from his spreadsheet agree with the Summit compression calculator so that is reassuring. So for my stock engine I am getting a CR of about 7.9:1, somewhat consistent with what you got.
If I am going to get 9:1 with dished pistons I will need to take some material off the heads, enough to get them down to about 70cc.
I still have a few days to work on this, my block goes into the machine shop next Saturday. We will first check the heads to make sure they are good, if they are then go into the block. If the heads are not good then I might have to consider a crate engine, new heads are not in the budget.
Thanks for all the great input, and please keep it coming. Haven't spent any money or cut any metal yet so I am still in the "talk is cheap" phase.
I am sure this topic can go both ways but my preference for street performance would lay with a flat top.
Bore 4.030"
Stroke 3.48"
Deck clearance 0.038" (using a dial indicator and magnetic base)
Head gasket thickness 0.038"
Dish volume 11cc (measured with syringe, plexiglass etc)
Chamfer volume 2.55cc (calculated, chamfer is 5/32 x 5/32")
I have a compression calculating spreadsheet that I got from a Jag buddy, btw my other vintage car is a '67 E-Type Jag:
http://www.xkedata.com/cars/detail/?car=1E13653
The CR numbers from his spreadsheet agree with the Summit compression calculator so that is reassuring. So for my stock engine I am getting a CR of about 7.9:1, somewhat consistent with what you got.
If I am going to get 9:1 with dished pistons I will need to take some material off the heads, enough to get them down to about 70cc.
I still have a few days to work on this, my block goes into the machine shop next Saturday. We will first check the heads to make sure they are good, if they are then go into the block. If the heads are not good then I might have to consider a crate engine, new heads are not in the budget.
Thanks for all the great input, and please keep it coming. Haven't spent any money or cut any metal yet so I am still in the "talk is cheap" phase.
Not a desirable distance.Maybe those heads have been shaved once? Just to flatten them when it was rebuilt. Giving you a 76 cc measurement instead of the stock over 76 cc volume?
In any case the 4.030 bore with true 76 cc measurement does improve your situation.
If you can get a flat top piston with 6cc and a compression height of 1.56 (stock) then your CR would be 9.04 with the .015 felpro shim gasket.
I would go that route before shaving those heads any more. I've heard that the heads can become thin and crack down the road if you take too much material off. Ask at the machine shop if you got a good one, see what their opinion is.
Try this CR calculator it has more inputs than summits.
http://www.jeepstrokers.com/calculator/
Last edited by REELAV8R; Jul 28, 2014 at 09:17 AM.
Not a desirable distance.Maybe those heads have been shaved once? Just to flatten them when it was rebuilt. Giving you a 76 cc measurement instead of the stock over 76 cc volume?
In any case the 4.030 bore with true 76 cc measurement does improve your situation.
If you can get a flat top piston with 6cc and a compression height of 1.56 (stock) then your CR would be 9.04 with the .015 felpro shim gasket.
I would go that route before shaving those heads any more. I've heard that the heads can become thin and crack down the road if you take too much material off. Ask at the machine shop if you got a good one, see what their opinion is.
Try this CR calculator it has more inputs than summits.
http://www.jeepstrokers.com/calculator/
In any case shoot for about .040" of squish (piston down the hole plus gasket thickness) for good quench and detonation resistance.
Could be your deck has been taken down a bit too. So you may have to select a CH that fits the deck or zero deck the block ( unless it already been done) and use a .040" thick head gasket to get the desired .040" squish.
Last edited by REELAV8R; Jul 28, 2014 at 09:29 AM.
In any case shoot for about .040" of squish (piston down the hole plus gasket thickness) for good quench and detonation resistance.
Could be your deck has been taken down a bit too. So you may have to select a CH that fits the deck or zero deck the block ( unless it already been done) and use a .040" thick head gasket to get the desired .040" squish.
Here is a photo that I took yesterday of the block, let's see if I did the attachment right...











