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I would not worry...because if it is so bad that boring it out would become an issue.....I would have that cylinder sleeved CORRECTLY..there is no reason you can not use this block....at least from the photo you posted.
I do not hesitate having a cylinder sleeved. My machinist has shown me bad sleeve jobs and how he does his....and knowing that I was on a Nitro race team that would change out sleeves in the engine at the track when needed...it does not make me raise any concern.
Rebuild it if the block is in good shape otherwise.
Not to argue with Dub, but I would buy a new block rather than sleeve it. Sure, sleeving works, but a new block with a one piece rear seal will result in a better foundation on which to build your engine.
Disclosure: I built my engine on a 4 bolt main block taken out of a Chevy van. It took a 0.30 over bore no problems and has been very reliable. Still, if I had it to do again....
Pete
Any idea how the machine shop forces that piston out of the bore?
They don't. If the piston is fused to the bore, they will break the piston apart and take it out in pieces. Trying to force a fused piston will break the bore or other parts of the block.
I bought my 76 c20 4bolt shortblock freshly machined along with practically new flat tops and a comp 268h cam for 300 bucks on craigslist.... I looked for a fresh rebuild with the notion that even if I was going to change it I would be further ahead.... I did end up replacing the crank and bearings along with the cam and lifters but still made out well since the bores were all within spec and still had the crosshatching (I rebored again anyway).
Not to argue with Dub, but I would buy a new block rather than sleeve it. Sure, sleeving works, but a new block with a one piece rear seal will result in a better foundation on which to build your engine.
Disclosure: I built my engine on a 4 bolt main block taken out of a Chevy van. It took a 0.30 over bore no problems and has been very reliable. Still, if I had it to do again....
Pete
Because if only one sleeve needs to be done...that is a WHOLE lot cheaper than buying a new block.
I have not...nor will not have a preference to a one-piece rear main seal and a two piece rear main seal. Each has their benefits...depending on how you want to look at it.
Because if only one sleeve needs to be done...that is a WHOLE lot cheaper than buying a new block.
I have not...nor will not have a preference to a one-piece rear main seal and a two piece rear main seal. Each has their benefits...depending on how you want to look at it.
DUB
10-4 Dub. Like I said I wasn't trying to aregue with you. You've probably forgotten more than I will ever know about engines, etc. and, yes, reusing a used block is certainly cheaper. Just thinking if I was building an SBC, I'd start with a new block. Stronger- thicker cyl walls, better oiling - priority mains, and so on. Just an opinion.
Pete
Thanks for all the input fellas....piston IS fused. I may as well bust it up so I can pull the crank....
Lots and lots of PB Blaster. clean as good as possible and soak with PB Blaster again. Let it sit a few days and soak it and clean it again. It will drive out once you get it to move after the crank is out.
Piston is moving, I think that I am in better shape than I originally believed....One other question, what parts should I be saving? Looks like all I will be reusing is the oil pan! And the bearing caps....
Piston is moving, I think that I am in better shape than I originally believed....One other question, what parts should I be saving? Looks like all I will be reusing is the oil pan! And the bearing caps....
Are you buying a rotating assembly? Depends on your budget and goals. You could reuse the crank, rods, timing cover, heads, pushrods, rockers. On my 383 build I used only the block. ARP studs, billet caps, forged rotating assembly, AFR heads, Retro roller, Roller rockers. If I did the math I would have started with a Dart SHP block and built a 406. By the time I hot tanked, decked, bored, align bored and honed the mains, magnafluxed, bought billet caps, ARP studs, clearance for 3.75 crank the Splayed main, priority main oiling Dart block ready to hone and assemble would have been a wash on price and another 23 CI.
10-4 Dub. Like I said I wasn't trying to aregue with you. You've probably forgotten more than I will ever know about engines, etc. and, yes, reusing a used block is certainly cheaper. Just thinking if I was building an SBC, I'd start with a new block. Stronger- thicker cyl walls, better oiling - priority mains, and so on. Just an opinion.
Pete
Pete.
I am right there with you. If I was building a serious bullet and wanted to guarantee the best possible strength in the block...and that would require buying a block that was really stronger due to its casting....I would. BUT...if I was building an engine that was also a bit 'spirited'...I could also use the block I had on the floor. All depends if I wanted my engine to peel my eye lids back...or make me swallow my chewing gum when I launch.
I have been looking at the price difference between just rebuilding the 350 to 355 using original crank....or stroking. An extra 350 to 400 dollars gives me a little more hp and more torque. Plus an entirely new rotating assy.
Thinking stroking is the way to go...opinions?
If I was building a serious bullet and wanted to guarantee the best possible strength in the block...and that would require buying a block that was really stronger due to its casting....I would. BUT...if I was building an engine that was also a bit 'spirited'...I could also use the block I had on the floor. All depends if I wanted my engine to peel my eye lids back...or make me swallow my chewing gum when I launch.