mrvette

I even reverse hinged my hood, but kept all the hardware, to make an up/over air induction for my basically TPI intake......got news, that induction will give you problems in a solid rainstorm, engine will ingest water......I got lucky and avoided problems one time, and am thinking of switching back to a forward hinged hood, instead of firewall/rear/cowel and going to an air cleaner I have had for years now.....but I in Florida now, so it's not such an issue, normally, but if to do some distance cruises, methinks to switch back again...

check my photobucket on page 3 for some pix.....

Hadez

I have the custom OTC style radiator scoop built by Brent on this forum that I believe some of you are referring to on my LS swap.

I am traveling most of this week but its effective delivering cold air.

Google Australian GTO CAI and you will find several OTR CAI that can be adapted to work. I have one from Australia that i have never used but will fit very nicely with minimal modifications. I would post pics but don't have them with me.

Lastly I will be selling my ride soon as I have moved onto other interests so I might sell the intake separately but I wont sell for less than $400 as its a very very nice unit and i can sell on GTO forums and my current setup gets job done nicely between looks and performance.

fleming23

I know the Australian ones you are talking about, those are what I initially started looking at before finding the Vararam kit.

If you could post any photos and details as to what was required to modify what Brent did to make yours work, it would be very much appreciated! This is next on my mod list as something has to be done about my IATs!

ezobens

Any thoughts on the idea of notching the top of the core support to allow for a taller intake opening?
1" - 1 1/4" seems fairly restrictive, even if it's wide.
The core support on my 69' seems to have a fair amount of material at the top that just angles rearward- I'm guessing to accommodate the foam air dam?
Any advantage to trimming it down a bit (not enough to compromise rigidity) to get that opening height to 2" or better?

pauldana

on my test at wide open throttle (383ci) at 100mph on my sealed CAI system I had a +.2psi in the bowl, from ram air effect. This was from that gap

waljr

if you're worried about water add a hole under the filter. ARB 4x4 snorkels & dirtbikes do it.

Illegal Vette

Chevrolet thought it was enough in 1982, the underside of the hood had a duct from the top center of the radiator support to the air cleaner of the cross fire injected engine.

fleming23

Yeah, but using that logic, they also thought 200hp in a Corvette was enough...

I need to get some material, but plan to try to work on this a little next weekend. If possible, I'd like to do a mold in either fiberglass or carbon fiber, if it turns out nice enough, so that the shield does not heat-soak as bad.

Illegal Vette

They did give it some thought though, the '82 radiator support has a dip in the top center for more air flow:

ezobens

I'll have to do some measuring-
While I don't want to make extra work for myself, if I can trim a little off the top without much drama and gain some opening height, I will probably go that route.
I plan on swapping over to a BB / LT-1 style hood at the same time-
Not sure if that will add any additional height to play with?
Elm

CWerner

If going to an LT-1 style hood, my thought is to open the hood in the valley of the scoop and then seal the box from below similar to the way the new C7 does it. This would give plenty of fresh air from outside, and the only thing you would need to deal with is rain. That can be addressed by adding a drain in the pan.

ezobens

There isn't enough area of opening if I made holes where the chrome inserts would normally go. Those slots would be like 1" x 4" (x2), which would be restrictive on a healthy 409 SBC.
With the TPI intake, it would also be awkward to have the intake area behind where the throttle body is located.

About the only thing I could use those opening for would be to help vent hot engine air and even that would be of little gain due to the size of the openings.

Illegal Vette

My air filter arrived today, and I stuck it in my mock-up air box:



I can see that I'm going to have to angle it down in the front to get maximum airflow. I think it will be doable, all I have to clear is the MAF underneath it and there appears to be room. This weekend I'll use my rough mock-up and the air filter and MAF to make a more accurate mock-up. I also ordered some 5052 1/8 aluminum as suggested by 682XLR8 to build it once I'm satisfied with the fit. As I look at the rough mock-up I'm comfortable with the concept, and confident that it will work.

ezobens

Looks promising!
Keep us posted on your progress-
I like the flat filter arrangement with the MAF.
I did some surfing and did find an example of trimming down the top of the core support so it's been done (however I probably wouldn't go quite as deep).

Illegal Vette

Well, here's my final mock-up:









Next step is to use it as patterns for cutting the aluminum which arrived today!

ezobens

Awesome!
Looks like the 80's vintage core supports have that upper lip bent way more back than on my 69' - Or did someone bend that back after the fact (not the 'dip' in the center)?

Garys 68

How close is the MAF to the TB?

Illegal Vette

In the picture it's actually inside of it a little bit, but I'll leave a little gap when I install it. I think I remember reading somewhere that vibration is bad for them.

Garys 68

You can get false metering from the MAF by mounting it too close to the TB. At low or part throttle the majority of air will be passing at the top and bottom of the MAF giving the false readings. I think they recommend at least 4" between MAF and TB.

Illegal Vette

There isn't room for that, I'm going to have to try to compensate by adjusting the table values. If that doesn't work I guess there's always speed density.