Tom454

Trying to install new #384220 OER upper control arm bumpers in a 70. Tried grease. Tried Armorall. Tried "screwing" them in. Tried string. Tried screwdriver (up to the point of damaging the new bumper). Tried softening them with a hair blower. But they resist my advances. Here is a pic of the originals (right) and the 384220 (left). I managed to install these 384220's on my 66, but can't remember if the hole in the frame is the same size. The 384220 is supposedly the GM replacement for 63-82.



Any more ideas?

72LS1Vette

IIRC I bought new bumpers from Zip and they were the same size as the originals. I don't remember offhand what the install area looks like but is there even enough flat are for those ginormous replacement bumpers to sit flat? I was able to install the bumpers easily by wrapping a piece of heavy twine around the slot and feeding the string through the hole in the frame. I don't remember if I put a little lithium grease on the cone but probably not.



Rick B.

gcusmano74

With the front suspension otherwise fully assembled, lift the car, allowing the wheels to hang, and support by the frame. Jack under the lower control arm, and CAREFULLY position the bumper in the upper control arm. Now SLOWLY lower the lower control arm. The spring will push the bumper into place. Watch your fingers!!!

Tom454

I just measured the "arrowhead" (insert nub) on both... they are identical in the slot and the wide part. Yes... there is plenty of room for the replacements to lay flat.

Tom454

That might work. As of right now, the frame is bare- no suspension.

Mooser

Someone had a thread a little while ago about some "tool" they used but I think it might have been for the firewall style plugs

The cord method has alsway been my "goto" when they fight back.
I'm sure you've done right it but JIC

When you tried the cord, was it a decent size (needs to be fairly big, not just a string, maybe 1/2 the thickness of the frame or better)


The cord is not used to pull the plug into the hole, it's meant to work the edge into it as it is pulled around. Almost like you were prying it in with a screw driver, little bit, move over, little bit, move over.....

Smear some white grease in the hole and the groove in the plug.
Wrap the cord around about 1-1/4 turn or so and pass the ends thorugh the hole
Jamb the plug in and try to get the area where the cord overlaps into the hole (push turn curse pry)
hold one end of the cord stationary (or tie it off) and as you pull the other one down and it tugs on the bung as it goes around you shove the cushion in that direction

I guess you could always drill a hole into the end of the bung side so it collapses more but it hardly seems like it should come to that

M

Tom454

Thanks for the detail on the proc. I'll refine my technique and give it another shot.

Tom454

I used masons line and followed your method... and with a few slight glitches... it worked. Thanks for the tip.

Mooser

M

doorgunner

If you could take the "sharp" edge off the top of the frame hole with a dremel, or de-burring tool......the bung should go in easier.

RelativeEarth

With spring out and control arms pushed away. I lubed rubber bumper and hole with dish soap. Using a 6 inch C clamp and 1 1/8 inch socket I was able to press it into the frame. (socket is underneath in spring tower) Put soap on all mating surfaces where bumper meets frame because you will need to rotate the C clamp back and forth. Without enough soap, the bumper will not spin on the frame which is necessary to get the nipple in the hole. Pressure alone did not work for me on my 68 corvette.