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Look for Temp Sending Unit That will Work With Stock Gauge
The stock sending unit is 1/2" npt and fits in the intake. I no longer have a 1/2" npt available. The fittings in head are 3/8" npt. I need a 3/8" npt sending unit that will work with the stock temp gauge in my 72. I really don't want to add another aftermarket gauge if possible.
The job size is not large enough for me to justify using the CNC. If demand picked up I'd have Scott fire up the Hurco for me.
I do them on the smaller (old school) lathe. I fabricated tapered jig for the NPT.
E
The sender that I have for my 72 looks exactly like the one for the 58-67 except it is 1/2" NPT.... now I am not sure what to do.... I know my gauge is stock.
The sender that I have for my 72 looks exactly like the one for the 58-67 except it is 1/2" NPT.... now I am not sure what to do.... I know my gauge is stock.
At some point, it has been replaced. The original senders from 72-79 had a spade terminal end on it and not the button head as prior years used. (pictured below)
The button head style sender 1513321 was used as a replacement sender for many years and that is probably what you have in the car.
This is the way cheapskates like myself do it.
A drill press and a 7/8" holesaw (i think it was 7/8"). Of course you need a 3/8"NPT die to cut the threads.
Wow! U deserve a "Bubba" award for that. Pretty ingenious really for a non-precision part. I think u have the old problem solved with a reasonable solution for us. And u could easily support the forum here with those Rat.
Wow! U deserve a "Bubba" award for that. Pretty ingenious really for a non-precision part. I think u have the old problem solved with a reasonable solution for us. And u could easily support the forum here with those Rat.
Thx for sharing.
Bubba award? Call it what you want. Thats OK I can take it. When I finished you couldnt tell the difference from my bubba'd up sensor or a new sensor. It actually worked out nice.
Easy dude. I like how u did that mod. Maybe i should have called it "lo-tech" to be more politically correct. I guess bubba would be more like enlarging the hole in the head with a round file. And there was a machinist on here that actually did that too (while head on the car).
This is the way cheapskates like myself do it.
A drill press and a 7/8" holesaw (i think it was 7/8"). Of course you need a 3/8"NPT die to cut the threads.
I like the "out of the box" thinking, that's how things get accomplished. But how do you account for the taper of the NPT threads? The NPT threads are a taper thread designed to seat and seal as they are installed. The initial stock should also be tapered when cutting threads to assure a leak free seal.
I, like you tried this method a long time ago first. It was a quick fix to a solution but when I tried cutting the threads I twisted the sender.
I promise, I'm more curious than critical and if there is a better mouse trap I'm interested. The wall of the sender is only so thick and every time I tried this I twisted the sender cutting the threads.
how do you account for the taper of the NPT threads? The NPT threads are a taper thread designed to seat and seal as they are installed. The initial stock should also be tapered when cutting threads to assure a leak free seal.
I promise, I'm more curious than critical and if there is a better mouse trap I'm interested. The wall of the sender is only so thick and every time I tried this I twisted the sender cutting the threads.
Willcox
The 3/8 NPT die I used is approximatly the same hieght as the threaded portion of the sensor. The die has the taper built into it. The fit is pretty good as you can see in the picture. There are plenty of threads into the bore for good sealing.
I, like you tried this method a long time ago first. It was a quick fix to a solution but when I tried cutting the threads I twisted the sender.
I tried it on a spare sensor before I tried it in the sensor I planned on using. I didnt have any problems with either sensor twisting. IDK, Maybe I got lucky.
The 3/8 NPT die I used is approximatly the same hieght as the threaded portion of the sensor. The die has the taper built into it. The fit is pretty good as you can see in the picture. There are plenty of threads into the bore for good sealing.
I tried it on a spare sensor before I tried it in the sensor I planned on using. I didnt have any problems with either sensor twisting. IDK, Maybe I got lucky.
The taper is a function of the tap or dye, the part need not be tapered before hand. for example, when threading pipe, the pipe is simply cut to length and threaded, no taper required.
The taper is a function of the tap or dye, the part need not be tapered before hand. for example, when threading pipe, the pipe is simply cut to length and threaded, no taper required.
Dean-
The issue is the wall thickness of the sender after it is turned down. After tanking on a couple, I made a fixture for our lathe to match the taper of the npt threads which stopped the issue for me. Now after 76rats post.. I think I'll make or have made, a tapered cutter.
Ok, I see what you mean, less torque required to thread a part that is already tapered and less likely to twist it off due to the thickness of the part.
Ok, I see what you mean, less torque required to thread a part that is already tapered and less likely to twist it off due to the thickness of the part.
Yeppers.. and it sure makes a funny looking sender when they twist up.
11-19-2014, 03:07 PM
Look for Temp Sending Unit That will Work With Stock Gauge
Pretty ingenious really for a non-precision part. I think u have the old problem solved with a reasonable solution for us.
Call it what you want. 
Thats OK I can take it. 
When I finished you couldnt tell the difference from my bubba'd up sensor or a new sensor. It actually worked out nice. 
