Drawmain

I've had a few issues with the starter harness on my 82. It was totally melted when I got the car, so I replaced the main harness and the starter harness about 4 years ago. After the rebuild, I started having weird electrical issues and the harness connector turned out to be the culprit again.

Here is what I found:

Starter side:





Main harness side:





It was way worse than this the first time I replaced the harness, but this time I didn't want to replace the entire harness to repair a melted connector. I decided that I'd rather go with Weather Pack and separate the ground further from the main power. In the original connector, the ground and power were right next to each other with predictable results (melted connectors). My thought is that by moving the ground away from the main power, I won't have to do this again.

The connectors and the seals are pretty inexpensive, and so are the tower and shroud connectors. The crimping tool is not, however. I got a new one, but I'm sure there are plenty on eBay to be found. A good crimp is essential, so get a good crimping tool. The male and female terminals crimp to the wire and to the silicone seal. Male terminals install in the shroud connector, female terminals install in the tower connector.

Example of a crimped female terminal: (sorry for the bad focus, but you get the idea)





And the finished product:





I hope this helps another 82 owner that may have this issue. It took about an hour or so to do. I did a couple of practice crimps before I started on the harness just to get a feel for it.

74 LS4-454

Marc, that really looks nasty
Good work as usual, I will add this to the "sticky" this weekend Tom

DUB

I HOPE this lasts.

The workmanship is very good....because I also use and install the 'Weather-pac' and Metri-pac connectors.

I have considered this but what I have noticed due to having so many wiring harnesses around is that the tubular weather-pac connectors just do not seem to have the integrity as well as the Metri-pac...due to current loads at this connection. If you doubt me...look a the connector at an electric fan and see how stout it is. And then look at the connectors of a C5 electric fan.....HUGE.

For me...when a connection is working a lot and carrying amps...I am concerned about how much of the terminals surface area actually make contact with each other.

DUB

kanvasman

Somewhere I was reading a thread that mentioned the reason for this connector in the first place ( I think the first starter extension was 77 or 78) was to make installation of engine easier at the factory. A few people just eliminate the connector and solder the wires directly. Just something I read on the internet, so it must be true!

DUB

YES. You are correct. I have removed the connection and made it a solid joint....like the earlier Corvettes. AND ...I have also soldered them together and KEPT the factory plastic connectors and hid them inside it so it would 'trick' people looking at it. Time consuming and a PAIN....YES

DUB

Drawmain

Very astute observations, Dub. When I was getting a feel for the crimping, I checked to see just how much contact the terminals would have with each other, and I came away feeling like the connection was at least as good as the factory part with the added benefit of being sealed against the elements. If it fails (which I don't expect it to) I will most likely solder and heat shrink the connection and do away with the connector all together. The male and female terminals make really great contact with each other inside the connectors, that was one of the reasons I decided to go with the weatherpak system in the first place.

Amorget

They do make higher amperage connectors in the Metri-Pack series, like the 800 series that will take up to 60 amps.

kanvasman

Would love to see the look on the guys face when, in 10 or so years he is trouble shooting something and he goes and opens up the connectors only to find them all soldered together!

DUB

THANK YOU.

I hope that it never gives you any trouble...But from time to time I would go over and feel it and see if it is getting hot.

YES...the weatherpac terminals do connect well...but seeing what GM has used and done...I see that the correct Metripac terminals are really stout.

as I somewhat mentioned.


He will probably move right on past it and know that there is no problem in that area....and the 'problem' is somewhere else.

DUB

Drawmain

Funny you should say that, I've been doing exactly that for the last two days. The connector has not been hot to the touch at all even after extended drives. I will continue to monitor it.


Indeed they are. Not too hard to swap out to those if I start seeing heat issues from the load. If they do solder together as Kanvasman suggested they might in 10 years I'll get a good laugh! And I'll post a picture of my face for y'all, lol

DUB

I am curious if your idea works long term (using weatherpac terminals)...PLEASE keep us informed.

I am glad it is not getting hot. That is a good sign.

DUB

Amorget

Quick series question, which crimping tool did you get, what did it cost (if you don't mind), and would you recommend it?

I have a not-so-good one and would like to find a better one.

terry82

that connection it not needed.i got rid of the problem.

Drawmain

I didn't get the "gee whiz" crimper that does both crimps at once, I have to do each crimp separately. If I was doing a ton of these I'd spring for the "one and done" tool but it was expensive at almost 200 dollars. Mine was a touch over 80 dollars and gets the job done just fine. I got it from Waytek online. They have all the crimpers you need in a lot of price ranges. A quick search on fleabay would probably turn up a good one that someone bought to use once then sell to get some money back.

Dub, I'm pretty curious too if it will work long term. No heat issues so far, and today I was pulling a higher than average load, headlights, wipers, and defroster with the blower on high. This summer will be more of a test with the new A/C being used a lot which will have the auxiliary fan operating as well. No heat issues, and my volts stay over 13 on the gauge now. Before this mod with the blower on high volts dropped to around 11 at idle. I'm glad I'm not having that issue anymore. This morning with lights, blower fan, and wipers the needle was steady at approx. 14 volts, even at the stop lights idling in drive. So far the connection seems to be handling the load just fine. I'll keep you up to date as much as I can. Now, my headlights are running through relays to take the load off my headlight switch so that may take load off the connection as well (I run the power to the lights direct from the alternator). I'm not tapping from the starter for anything I've added to the car. I'm not sure if that makes any difference. Also, since the engine rebuild this past summer all I have to do is bump the key and she starts right up, so no prolonged cranking to stress the connection. I think that's when the connector sees the most load anyway.

DUB

YES...cranking it is when the connection takes a lot of AMPS...and also providing 12 volts to the ignition switch also....depending on the load....which seems to be fine for you.

AS I wrote before....I WANT IT TO WORK!!!. AND NOT wanting to put any 'bad MOJO' on it....but I have been bit by these small weahterpac terminals...the male ones... due to the small sharp point at the end. The point there is a very small amount of metal...and I have had them break there and allow the point to collapse inwards of the female connector and thus....lose good contact.

DUB

Drawmain

The connector is definitely the weakest point in the circuit, so I appreciate the warnings and the concern, and all the comments have me keeping a close eye on the connection. I want it to work, too! My thought is that the length of the terminals make up a bit for the size. I do know it can't be any worse than what the factory put there, and if it fails, I'll just solder the wires and be done with it. So far, so good!

ESU

I know this is an old thread but I may be having the same issue on my 82, first though I'm trying to figure out where this is in the eng compartment. Cant tell from the photos??? Thx, Cory

Big2Bird

It starts at the starter, and is about 18" long, and has a plug just about the top of the a/c plenum.

TimAT

Usually just to the right of the distributor.

Drawmain

Just to update: 2 and a half years later, still working fine and not getting hot. I was daily driving it just before summer with no issues. Big2Bird's info on the location is of course correct.