Brakes, these brakes...... bleeding issues
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Brakes, these brakes...... bleeding issues
Hello all. I replaced my left rear brake caliper because it was leaking, the pedal goes to the floor and the brake light is on. I attempted to bleed the rear brakes with a Motive power bleeder. I made a mess twice because the fluid overflowed in the master cylinder. I used two clamps but fluid still leaked through. At one point it appeared that I had the master cylinder sealed but when I opened the first bleeder (in sequential order), no fluid flowed. I have several questions.
When sealing the master cylinder how much fluid should you siphon out before putting the adapter over the mc reservoirs?
Do I need to place a piece of wood (2x4) over the adapter and then use a c-clamp large enough to put pressure on the adapter and do I put the c-clamp in the middle of the adapter or just use the c-clamp without the piece of wood?
If the piece of wood is necessary, does it have to cover the entire length/width of the raised area on the adapter?
Do I need to lift the rear of the car as high as I can to aid with the pressure provided by the bleeder?
The bleeders (speed bleeders I installed 7 years ago) are rusted could it be possible the check ball is stuck and will allow fluid to flow? (going to replace them anyway)
All suggestions/comments are greatly appreciated. Was so frustrated that I decided to throw in the towel for today. (It really bothers me when I am unable to get something done that is so straight forward)
When sealing the master cylinder how much fluid should you siphon out before putting the adapter over the mc reservoirs?
Do I need to place a piece of wood (2x4) over the adapter and then use a c-clamp large enough to put pressure on the adapter and do I put the c-clamp in the middle of the adapter or just use the c-clamp without the piece of wood?
If the piece of wood is necessary, does it have to cover the entire length/width of the raised area on the adapter?
Do I need to lift the rear of the car as high as I can to aid with the pressure provided by the bleeder?
The bleeders (speed bleeders I installed 7 years ago) are rusted could it be possible the check ball is stuck and will allow fluid to flow? (going to replace them anyway)
All suggestions/comments are greatly appreciated. Was so frustrated that I decided to throw in the towel for today. (It really bothers me when I am unable to get something done that is so straight forward)
Last edited by Oldguard 7; 07-31-2015 at 06:18 PM. Reason: typos
#2
Safety Car
I could never get a good bleed with the Motive. It always leaked and made a mess as yours did.
I purchased a bleeder from Summit that works off my air compressor. Perfect.
Before that went to my local mechanic shop for the bleed.
I purchased a bleeder from Summit that works off my air compressor. Perfect.
Before that went to my local mechanic shop for the bleed.
#3
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I had a motive, a few years ago and used it to bleed the brakes with no issues but it cracked and leaked fluid The adapter was plastic and flat. The one I now have has a raised surface on it and is metal. It is the 0105 model.
#4
Burning Brakes
I replaced one of my rear calipers four days ago. I have a vacuum bleeder fron Harbor Freight. It works off the air compressor. I used it to get the fluid started and then gravity bled each bleeder for about ten minutes each. Pedal is solid. I've done it this way for decades.
#5
Le Mans Master
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When the 'valve trips' it blocks fluid flow, so in your case no fluid can get to the rear calipers.
You can try recentering the 'valve' by having a helper apply brake pressure and opening a front bleeder.
#6
Le Mans Master
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With the motive bleeder I do not add fluid to it. I fill the master then use the motive for pressure. This way you will not overflow as you have described.
In addition, I also used some air tool quick releases between my motive bleeder and the master cylinder cap. This allows me to easily disconnect the motive while keeping the pressure in it.
In addition, I also used some air tool quick releases between my motive bleeder and the master cylinder cap. This allows me to easily disconnect the motive while keeping the pressure in it.
#7
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
The brake light being on means that the valve in the 'brake distribution and switch assembly' has tripped.
When the 'valve trips' it blocks fluid flow, so in your case no fluid can get to the rear calipers.
You can try recentering the 'valve' by having a helper apply brake pressure and opening a front bleeder.
When the 'valve trips' it blocks fluid flow, so in your case no fluid can get to the rear calipers.
You can try recentering the 'valve' by having a helper apply brake pressure and opening a front bleeder.
I will give your suggestion a try. (try is the operative word)