gungatim

I already did. it's post #28...

74modified

Post # 30

Sigforty

See my post 13. They are used when the water pump bypass is removed or not incorporated. Such as Stewart water pumps.

toobroketoretire

The Stants AND the Robertshaws fail in the closed position. In the case of a Stant the 1" diameter valve stays in the UP position and so does the outer sleeve of the Robertshaw. The wax alloy "pellet" expands and forces the valve or sleeve down against spring pressure so when the wax pellet fails the default position on both types is in the up position or CLOSED.

Peterbuilt

Click here and read 'Features and Benifets'
http://www.autozone.com/cooling-heat...at/417203_0_0/

toobroketoretire

That's interesting. How long have those been available and are they only available in 180 degree? All of the thermostats I have known about that failed were very old thermostats in which the wax pellet material finally migrated out of the capsule because of wear to the capsule. Replace it every few years when the top hose is replaced and the chance of failure is very unlikely. In fact I seem to remember G.M. recommending replacement every two years.

But to return to the original question I had; what is the purpose of drilling the holes? Faster fill time? After doing it to my thermostat and finding warm up time was 4 times as long on a very cold winter morning I swore I'd never do it again.

Big2Bird

With some pumps it is necessary:
http://stewartwaterpumps.com/

Bloodzone

I don't have a internal bypass or a heater core connected. Drilling 3 small holes cured a 240 temp spike I was having after 2 miles of driving. Takes around 5 more miles to warm up in south Georgia. The temp spike was the only reason I drilled the holes and it solved my unique problem. If I lived in a cooler zone I would have a connected heater core and a normal thermostat.

79406

This forum gets into the comedy realm at times, and it seems like the same person starts this stuff. If you want to drill holes drill baby drill, if not dont. As for me I drilled the holes and now I'm going for a ride in my drilled stat pro comp headed double pumper equipped Obx side pipe equipped Corvette that can't possibly run with all the stuff I've done wrong.[/QUOTE]
My new high volume water pump came out of the box with the bypass blocked off. I am going to drill the thermostat and go for a test drive in my double pumper and sidepipe equipped Vette . The way I drive I have no fear of not reaching operating temperature.

toobroketoretire

Any time you want bad or ridiculous advise visit a forum where witchcraft and supernatural explanations rule.

SH-60B

You mean like this ridiculous supernatural witchcraft explanation?

leadfoot4

Who wrote post #1??

toobroketoretire

I have been a C3 owner since 1988 and never heard about the "need" for drilling holes in C3 thermostats until I joined a couple of C3 forums. So a couple of years ago I tried it and found even little holes drastically increase the warm up time in very cold weather. On a 30 degree morning my heater would begin blowing warm air within 5 miles but with the holes it took a whole 12 miles and a whole lot more driving to get hot air. So for me hole drilling is nonsense but if you feel the need for holes do it.

Big2Bird

The difference is that a hole in a SBC stat is a tad different than a 454 with a honking 3/4" bypass hose.

Street Rat

Anybody else getting tired of this thread but me?

mrvette

I feel my first post on page one answered all the ??? pretty good, the newer 195f stats have a small passageway, restricting flow when wide open, needs more flow if you want your engine to run cooler and here in FLORIDA when it's been damn near or over 100f for the last 3 months, we need the FLOW assistance, my car sets in the garage, and even in 30f winter, the car is about ~50f, in the morning....and by time I drive around the corner to the stop sign, I feel SOME warmer air

but you have to also allow that my shark is NOT STOCK, from wheels through roof, nothing, every aspect of it has been modified, especially the LT1 induction on the L98/ZZ4 engine while retaining the HEI in the back, and having stockish L98 rear mani return hoses see pix on my sites.....

I used to live in Maryland, and yes with the unheated garage in winter, sure the cars had 1.5-2 gallons of Glycol in them freeking 0-f some mornings so yes, I would put in an old 180f stat with the large opening, never an issue, BUT with that damn EPA making all of them the narrow throat, need more water flow in summer.....

toobroketoretire

Because of the aftermarket manufacturer's sales hype people believe they need higher output water pumps. But higher output doesn't necessarily mean cooler engines because the coolant needs enough time in the radiator to transfer it's heat. The factory engineers designed the water pumps and radiators to be very efficient at the loads and speeds these cars run at so "high output" isn't always a good thing.

Jeff_Keryk

"the coolant needs enough time in the radiator to transfer it's heat"
This is an old myth; it is not true. Take your thermostat out and your car will run cooler. In some cases it won't even heat up to proper operating temperatures.

Just sayin'

Big2Bird

As in 100GPM fuel pumps?

leadfoot4